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Audio & Subwoofer install problems (RAV4 2014)

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1.7K views 16 replies 3 participants last post by  Ravingtoy  
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Hi everyone,

Thank you for a wonderful forum. I've spent time watching, but decided to join today. So first post.

I'm trying to upgrade the audio sound of my Toyota RAV4 2014 by keeping the factory stereo, but add an active subwoofer just to give it that extra kick/bass.

I've read a lot of posts and seen some photos/videos and followed the wiring loom under the bonnet to try to get to the firewall, but I'm really struggling to find it.

You will see that from the videos/photos I've uploaded below, that when looking under the bonnet or behind the glove compartment, the firewall is totally hidden and I don't know how to get access to it.

dead link removed

Any guidance, videos, photos on how to get to it would be greatly appreciated:

Thanks
 
#3 · (Edited)
Thanks for your help @ukrkoz - Good news is that I've managed to pierce through the firewall and fed through the power cable successfully without having to remove the Cowl, so that's all good.

Apologies, I'm not sure what you were referring to, when you said "Not even sure, why you need that for sub install" - Could you please clarify?

Just to help you understand, I'm installing a Rockville Rockghost V2 spare wheel subwoofer. I was trying to follow THIS YOUTUBE VIDEO

Are you trying to say that I don't need to pull any wiring and fuse to the battery?
 
#5 · (Edited)
I now realise that, but I guess I don't have to worry about it anymore, haha.

By the way, do you know what:
  1. Wire to tap into behind the car's factory installed headunit for the subwoofer? If so, do you have a photo, a diagram or even better, a video showing this?
  2. The RCA cables are for and would they even be needed to install the subwoofer to the factory stereo?
 
#7 ·
I'm afraid I don't have any factory installed sub. I don't want to take apart the door panels to get to the door speakers as I don't feel confident to do this. So instead I feel it will be easier to access the speaker wiring from the back of the factory installed head unit

Do you know where I can get hold of diagrams, photos or videos showing which wires at the back of the factory installed head unit are for speakers?
 
#10 ·
RCAs are for the RCA output. It depends on your amp. Mine has High, which is filtered plug, and LOW, which is RCA jacks. You need either head unit that has dedicated RCA Out for sub or, simply tap in BOTH + and - wires. But then you need to connect to amp High In. And then filter it with amp setting. Really depends on your amp.
 
#11 ·
My apologies ukrkoz for being so dumb, but I'm a bit confused. The below images show the white connector of the Rockville Subwoofer. Further below, is all the parts and wiring that are included. So now how do I connect from the Rockville white connector all the way to the back of the car's factory headunit?






Image

Image
 
#12 ·
What's confusing? You have consolidated plug, Low Level needs to be connected to dedicated subwoofer Out on head unit. Which is normally RCA Out, then you need adapter RCA> regular wires or, simply strip wires on RCA connectors, figure, which one is + and - and connect accordingly. You have High In, which you connect to any sound source, like speaker wires. The rest is self explanatory. You need 1 power cable to battery, with fuse, 1 cable, usually blue, to a 12V source that turns off, when vehicle is shut down, to turn amp off too. You need to run cable to known good Ground, which is usually a seat mounting bolt or any exposed metal body connection bolt suitable for location. Should have gotten amp with sound sensing, then you don't need blue wire for shut off, it shuts down automatically.
 
#14 ·
It's real easy.
Make sure, you have battery disconnected.
Preferably, solder connections, where you have to. Head unit removal ain't easy. I still say, door panel removal is easier. MOF, there's harness braid going into the door, covered by pillar B cover, and it takes like 10 min to remove it to get to it. That's where installers tap into speaker wire.
 
#16 ·
@ukrkoz and @stvotw - That's brilliant guys, thanks for the info. Should be enough to do the job. I agree that the door panel removal might be easier, but I don't feel confident to mess about with in case I can put it back. The head unit only requires a few facias and nuts to be removed. Then it's just a matter of finding the right wire to tap into.
 
#17 ·
Hello guys.

Thanks for all your help and advice. I've managed to install the subwoofer. I tapped into the rear speaker wires in the back of the factory head unit. Looks like I didn't need the blue remote cable as when I connect that the subwoofer won't power up. Everything seems to work fine. However the big issue right now is that the actual bass difference between the standard and the upgrade subwoofer is negligible. So I'm wondering what I'm doing wrong?