If you're lucky it's simply just dirty ATF causing issues, like for this Corolla owner who fixed this code by doing a drain and fill including dropping the pan, changing the filter, and cleaning the magnets: http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...rolla-1st-gen-matrix-2003-2008/374135-05-corolla-s-code-po741.html#post10114554

Or you may have to replace that particular solenoid: http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/8...-1st-generation-2001-2007/1198946-2007-highlander-transmission-problems200.html

I'd start out by doing a thorough drain and fill w/pan drop, magnet cleaning and new filter. If that doesn't solve it I'd replace the solenoid. I wouldn't start out with a rebuild for sure!

 

Hi

Thanks for the reply.

I disconnected the battery over night and the P0741 code and engine check light disappeared.. for now.
The whining noise seems to be a constant now and is more pronounced when I select reverse
or when switching manually from 1st to second.

I will try and get a flush and filter change next week.

Any idea's what this whine could be and why it would be more audible when cold but almost disappears once everything warms up after driving for a while.

What's the worst that can happen?

thanks in advance
cheers
John

 

Hard to say. When you do the fluid I would personally opt to do a drain and fill (or 2-3 of them) instead of a flush, especially given the high mileage.

 

especially given the high mileage.

I think you missed it's not miles, but kilometers.
So he has about 143K miles on it

 

I wasn't aware that 230,000k's qualifies for high mileage?
If only ever had one other car with tranny problem's,
but that had nearly 500k's on the clock and I got rid of that car.

Considering that the P0741 refers to the DSL/TCC solenoid.... should I change that while I'm at it?

thanks
cheers
John

 

It's not super high but high enough that I'd do a gentle fluid exchange especially given you have issues.

I would do the first drain and fill without replacing the solenoid and see if it improves. If not it's good to do another drain and fill anyhow so you could just drop the pan again at that point and replace it.

 

Ok, Thanks for your advice.
I'll do that and let you know the outcome.

Have a great weekend.
cheers
john

 

Check your running ATF level and top off if needed.

Drive gingerly otherwise you'll be wasting that $5000 for a new transmission.

I'd start with a drain/refill. Drive for a few days or a week, and repeat the drain/refill.
If the issues doesn't return after a couple drain/refills, I would then drop the pan, clean the magnets, replace the filter, refill and keep on driving.

230000km or 143000 miles is too much for ATF. Sadly, if there was no previous maintenance on the transmission, you probably wore it out with bad fluid.

http://www.penriteoil.com.au/products.php?id_categ=3&id_products=336
http://www.nulon.com.au/specs/17/305/Type_WS
http://www.penriteoil.com.au/products.php?id_categ=3&id_products=709
http://www.castrol.com/en_au/austra...ralia/products/cars/automatic-transmission-fluids/transmax-fe-multivehicle.html

Worth a read:
http://www.transgo.com/products.php...php?prd=SK-U151&homeinclude=catalog&category_id=151&parent_id=45&product_id=262
http://www.sonnax.com/parts/3048-zip-kit

 

Hi,

Well, I went to get fuel this morning and after filling up, I noticed that the whining noise had disappeared!
I drove home and noticed that the gear changes happened at approx: 2,500rpm nice and smoothly.

Anyone want to take a stab at this?

I'm at a loss, but I will still change the oil and filter.

Thanks to all....
cheers
John

 

I personally don't like it when things that had issues all of a sudden stop having those issues.... It's eery... like silent before the storm kind of eery.

Let us know how it goes after fluid and filter replacement!

 

Agreed, but could that also mean the problem may not be as serious as I'm led to believe?

 

Btw, the DSL (57953MSL - U150E U151E U240E, LOCK-UP SOLENOID, 2002-UP, TOYOTA) would cost me AUD $460.
Can I disconnect and live without it?

I've read conflicting reports!

Thanks
Cheers
John

 

I can't see the car operating correctly without the clutch working right, I would think it would throw the computer for a loop. At a minimum, you'll take a drivability and mpg hit when cruising.

Sent by carrier pigeons via Tapatalk

 

I should mention that I also tow a caravan.
So the clutch not working right might be an issue.

I've got the transmisson filter kit and three of these: https://www.penriteoil.com.au/products.php?id_products=709

The plan is to do the job first thing saturday morning.
I'll post some pics if there is anything interesting to report.

cheers
john

 

In the States a "caravan" is heap of junk made by the now defunct Dodge, which most on this forum would not be surprised to read, is not able to motivate under its own power and in tow by a Toyota. :grin:

 

Hi All,

Well, I finally got around to the flush and filter change.
I also removed the DSL solenoid and the OHM reading was between 12 and 13ohm's, so I put it back in.
I didn't have a way to do the voltage test.
This morning, the car started and there was no noise from the transmission...
So, I decide to go for a little drive out of town about 50k's... transmission switching smoothly thru all gears like new.
After I pulled over at my destination to check my gps for a few minutes.... it all went to pot!

The transmission now switches very heavily from first to second like a sledge hammer and requires massive amounts of rpm to switch into third
after that is seems to behave itself.

Should I have replaced that DSL solenoid or could it be a TPS issue...or?

Help....

Thank you
cheers
John

 

I doubt TPS. If it is a solenoid issue, and I were replacing solenoids, I'd start with SL1 which is turned off on the 1>2 shift and turn back on for 2>3.

If you suspect pmreature or hard torque converter lockup issues, pull the connector for DSL and see if shifting improves.

If you have access to Lubeguard, try some that according to bottle direcitons. If the issue is something sticking in the valve body, it *might* help free it up.

 

Hmm..

If only there was an easy way to disconnect that DSL!

Lubeguard could be a bit tricky.... how about some of this: http://www.liqui-moly.com.au/auto-trans-restorer-2702/

thanks
cheers
John

 

Unfamiliar with liqui-moly.

Can you acquire this? This company may carry the 10 oz bottles as well.

https://zoxoro.com.au/Products/Lubegard-50902-Automatic-Transmission-Fluid-Protectant-32-oz.html

 

Well. I got a hold of some Lucas Transmission Fix and I drained a little to make room for it,
The transmission fluid is Burned!... really badly.. it doesn't smell at all like it should.

I added the Lucas just to see if it did anything at all, but it just very lazy switching gears.

When I change from into reverse from P or from reverse into D, there is this almighty jolt.

What's going on?

I've got enough ATF for one more change.. but is it safe to drive?
I have to travel about 15k's to and from work.

Thanks
Cheers
John

 

Time to rebuild the transmission or swap in a new/used one.

 

Yeah sounds like it unfortunately. If the brand new fluid now is burnt something is wrong. As a last resort you can certainly do another drain and fill. New ATF is an excellent detergent and it may have put "old grime" that was previously stuck into circulation.

 

The cost of a new tranny is prohibitive.. Can I drive the car or will it damage other parts?

Worst case scenario?

thanks
cheers
John

 

With new fluid burnt, sounds like fluid isn't being cooled. Debris from TCC may be blocking circulation.
Worst case is you'll need a tow along with a new transmission.

Park it and take some time to pinpoint problem. Could be a $1000 fix instead of $5000.

 

Slipping clutches. Without a tear down or someone with Toyota or good aftermarket diagmostic tools to narrow the problem, we're all spitting in the wind on this end of forum. The issue could be a failed pump, stuck solenoid, debris in the valve body, failed seal....

Another fluid change won't solve the fundemental issue, but I would do a drain and fill to dilute the Lucas oil.

Unless you stumble upon the problem, I don;t see how you;re going to avoid transmission work. I'd get three estimates from legit shops.

 

Hi

Well, the tranny failed this morning and will not switch from first into second.
I had to call roadside service to get the car towed to a transmission specialist.

I'll report back once I get more info.

Thanks for the advise
cheers
john