I didn't have sound on and couldn't tell much from the video.

If the belt only squeals when you start the car with the AC on, it is probably the belt or the tensioner.

If the belt squeals when you turn the AC on after the car it running, it possibly could be something with the AC compressor, but I'd still start with the belt or the tensioner.

There are two ways to attack it:

I checked on RockAuto, and I don't think your car has a spring tensioner on the belt. In that case, I would check and adjust the belt tension first. If that fails, replace the belt. If that fails, look at compressor bearings, etc.

If the car had a spring tensioner, I would replace the belt first, then the tensioner, then look at compressor bearings.

 

Have you inspect the belt conditions?
It is usually easy to see if it is bad like fraying or shredding or stretching, etc.

Also, I have realized that the Mitsuboshi belt have less tendency to squeal than others.
Not sure why.

 

You most likely need a new belt. I suggest buying one made by Gates. Stay away from the parts store house brand like at Autozone. Gates are best quality. Before that though, you can check the squeal easy enough by starting the engine and when someone engages the AC spray the belt with something like window cleaner (Windex). If the belt quiets down then you've found your problem. You'll still need to change it though because the noise will come right back.

Check youtube for a possible video on how to change the belt.

 

Belt squealing when AC starts. Replace belt or compressor/pulley issue? Reply to Thre

You cold likely adjust that belt to stop the noise. It is slipping ever so slightly, but if the belt has 100K on it then replacing it is wise as it is due. Losing the belt while commuting is far more expensive than simply replacing it.
Best Regards,
Wayne

 

Thanks a lot for all you answers guys!! The belt looks ok as for as condition goes but it probably has stretched a little and with 75k on the car I think it is best to just replace the belt. I will also replace the power steering belt while I am in there. Hopefully this will fix the squealing. This is the first time I am touching the belts on this car and it looks simple enough to replaee but how do I know how to set the tension on the belts so they are not to tight or too loose?

 

Well, feel how tight the belt is now and then make the new one a bit tighter. You should be able to deflect it about 1/8 - 1/4 inch.

 

Not sure what the FSM specifies the tension should be.

Ideally, you would use a belt tension gauge, but they run around $40-$70 and often don't have enough clearance to use one. Otherwise, you can use a "kricket" gage for around $10. Otherwise, you just tighten it until it no longer squeals and deflects maybe around an inch between the furthest pulleys.

 

Go with aeromech's deflection reading.

If you aren't using a gauge, it's much more of an Eye-spec type of thing: "I 'spec that seems about right ..."

 

That is not a belt squealing. Sounds like AC clutch or compressor has a problem. You should be able to turn the compressor by hand. Could be clutch bearing or compressor internal problem.

 

Try the windex. That will tell you if the belt is bad or a bearing. Spray the running side of the belt and see if the sound changes. If not, go for the bearing.

 

Damn I was hoping it was just the belt. I just ordered OEM Toyota belts to replace them both since it's probably a good idea to replace them now anyway. With belt off I will try turning the compressor by hand. Is there anything else I should do with the belt off to try and diagnose the A/C? Thanks!

I will also try the windex when I get home from work today.

 

You don't have to have the belt off to turn the compressor. Just turn the outermost part of the magnetic clutch. That part is connected to the compressor shaft. The clutch free wheels when not engaged.:smile:

 

This is a good tip I saw on YouTube. Grab the belt and try to turn it like you were trying to see the underside. It should rotate a quarter turn but not much farther. I used that advice recently and no squeal. Can't remember the video title.

 

Fixed!!!

Ok the belts came in on Friday and I did the job. It wasn't too bad, the power steering belt was the hardest part especially when trying to add tension to the belt and tighten it down. The good news is there is no more squealing or chirping!! I did try the windex on the constant chirping with the AC on and it stopped it for a few seconds so I figured it was a belt issue. It didn't make the initial really loud squealing while I had the windex so I couldn't test that. I did turn the AC compressor by hand, it seemed to turn fine, not freewheeling but I doubt it should be that easy, just a little hand force turned it. It ends up the belts where in worse shape then I thought, sometimes it's hard to see the cracks without bending the belt inside out while its off. Take a look at the new vs. old belts below. Interesting the new belts are made by different manufacturer than the old. The old was Dayco new was Mitsubshi. The part numbers are different, when I looked up the old belt number it said the replacement part was a different part number so I got the updated belt. Any difference between these two manufactures? I noticed the new ones have like a fuzzy material on it.

 

Mitsuboshi is Toyota OEM and highly recommended.

Gates or Goodyear gatorback (now Continental) are also well-regarded.

Dayco are a parts store belt. They are okay, but I'd rather have one of the other three.

 

Toyota belts are made by Bando, Mitsuboshi, or Dayco. The belt on the left is an OEM Dayco belt (it says Dayco and Toyota).

The belt you use depends on the application. Mistuboshi belts are not easily procured so if I do a timing belt on a Toyota, I usually get them with the kit. The kit for my Sequoia came with an OEM Dayco belt. For Toyota dealer replacements, you will usually find the belt is a Bando (unmarked) or Mitsuboshi. However the 2UZFE uses a Dayco as OEM.

For most applications, I prefer the Gates or Bando. However the OEM Bando belts are terrible in the 1ZZFE applications and it seems the Goodyear Gatorback/Continental Belts work best for those. The OEM Bando on the 2AZFE is amazing and even after 130K miles and 7 years, my OEM 2AZFE Bando looked brand new (I ended up keeping it when I put the water pump on).

TL: DR OEM Dayco is better than part store Dayco. Mitsuboshi, Dayco, and Bando are OEM. Mitsuboshi is harder to come by aftermarket, so Gates, Goodyear, or Bando are usually the best choice.