I've used castrol txt 5w-40 on the 3rd gen camry with 3VZ-FE for 4 years and now use castrol magnatec 5w-40 for 4rd gen camry with 1MZ-FE already 1,5 year and don't have any problems. I change it every 10000kilometers ~ 6200miles.

 

Synthetic is preferred. There is no reason to use inferior dino oil.

For highly useful information, please see www.bobistheoilguy.com.

AMSoil is the best
After that Mobile 1, becuase it's good, but easy to buy.

 

Synthetic is preferred. There is no reason to use inferior dino oil.

For highly useful information, please see www.bobistheoilguy.com.

AMSoil is the best
After that Mobile 1, becuase it's good, but easy to buy.

That's completely incorrect. A lot of times if you switch to synthetic you will start leaking oil because the dino oil made a seal wherever leaks were possible. I say especially if it's an older car, just use dino oil and change every 3k miles and enjoy years of reliability.

 

That's completely incorrect. A lot of times if you switch to synthetic you will start leaking oil because the dino oil made a seal wherever leaks were possible. I say especially if it's an older car, just use dino oil and change every 3k miles and enjoy years of reliability.

This is what I was thinking. Although some of my seals are new, I would've thought that the synth oil would leak because it's so thin. When we did the change on this Celica, it was like water...i can't imagine how it lubricates that well on older engines. Perhaps it's designed for more modern engines which run synthetic from factory?

Bottom line..just keep using normal HPR 30??

 

That's completely incorrect. A lot of times if you switch to synthetic you will start leaking oil because the dino oil made a seal wherever leaks were possible. I say especially if it's an older car, just use dino oil and change every 3k miles and enjoy years of reliability.

that's where you are wrong

synthetic will alwasy be better because of less wear and tear on the moving parts
if you spring leaks, the leaks were always there anyway, and the use of synthetic oil will just show them to you. If the leaks are big enough to worry about, then they should have been fixed in the first place anyway




only tip when it comes to oil that I can say is this....don't use 15w50 when it's below zero outside...I changed it once it hit april this past year, but the crazy weather kept on dipping below zero, and the car started REALLY hard in the mornings....that stuff is thick.... :hammer:

 

I like Synthetic best.
Why would you want sludge preventing leaks anyways?
Gunky enough to stop a leak, gunky enough to stop a journal or passageway.

Ever hear an engine seize?
It starts as a screech, followed by either a loud bang and then parts clanking around as your engine spins to its death or an even louder silence as your motor fuses into a one piece unit.

No core exchange for you.

 

I like Synthetic best.
Why would you want sludge preventing leaks anyways?
Gunky enough to stop a leak, gunky enough to stop a journal or passageway.

Ever hear an engine seize?
It starts as a screech, followed by either a loud bang and then parts clanking around as your engine spins to its death or an even louder silence as your motor fuses into a one piece unit.

No core exchange for you.

I have been using Mobil-1 5w30 since the 1st oil change on my 1998 Sienna XLE. After ~90K miles, no signs of leaks yet, no valve chattering either.

 

Excuse me but leaks have nothing to do with synthetic oil and everything to do withvalve stem seals that are ALREADY damaged and should be replaced.

 

:lol:

Another synthetic happy customer. ^

If I had this Camry fresh from factory, it would know little dino.

I have searched on this site and the only slings at synthetic is there was claims that the cars were leaking more oil. They were leaking oils before but now its more. Hey, when seals fail, they do not get better, it gets worse. There is pressure in that engine case just pushing oil out wherever it will go. Do what you gotta. My car stays synthetic.

I am going to volunteer my car for a test. Look for post.

 

Synthetic is the only way to go on a newer motor and infrequent oil changes are no problems if your woman is driving it because then she can drive it longer for longer periods and you won't have to replace it as fast. Probably not many synthetic fans around because its probably best for racing. The girls like to beat on the cars to.

Supposedly runnin syn after many miles of dino can break off carbon chunks and stuff and clog a passageway or oil pickup tube. Run engine tune-up for an oil change or two before before switching is often times recommended. Anotherwards if you want to run clean..., start clean or get clean first.

 

Synthetic is the only way to go on a newer motor and infrequent oil changes are no problems if your woman is driving it because then she can drive it longer for longer periods and you won't have to replace it as fast. Probably not many synthetic fans around because its probably best for racing. The girls like to beat on the cars to.

Supposedly runnin syn after many miles of dino can break off carbon chunks and stuff and clog a passageway or oil pickup tube. Run engine tune-up for an oil change or two before before switching is often times recommended. Anotherwards if you want to run clean..., start clean or get clean first.

^WTF???
Non English?? Sexist??

 

:lol: She souded like my ex, we always fought about the car care. She hated i drove and I hated I fixed, cleaned and paid.

I flushed engine out before I went syth, no kerosene, but just single run of crap cleaner at Jiffy Lube and then put Castrol Full Synthtec in. Cars instantly smoother and stayed that way for more then six months, changed to Mobil 1 then.

 

Excuse me but leaks have nothing to do with synthetic oil and everything to do withvalve stem seals that are ALREADY damaged and should be replaced.

Yeah, but they wouldn't have leaked had he stayed with dino oil. But instead, it then comes through. How is that a good thing? Switching to synthetic isn't a mandatory need. I know tons of cars that haven't run it and have lasted forever. For example, I have 202k miles on my car and I run NAPA Premium 5W-30. It's not needed, it's just a waste of money :


Stick with standard oil. You'll be fine as long as you treat your car good, and don't beat on it

 

You're not suppose to switch to synthetic if your vehicle already has a decent amount of mileage. Doing so will cause leaks to the engine seals because synthetic is so much thinner than dino oil.

If you change your dino oil more frequently than regular interval, it gives same effect as using synthetic.

(Topic had been discussed to death.)

 

^
uh oh


Then why not lock it oh great one?

 

The benefits of synthetic are not just that it is "slicker". It does not break down like dino oil. Short driving trips cause dino oil to break down and give off acids which harm your motor. Syn is more stable and retains its viscous properties through a larger range of temperatures. Yes it has better lubricating properties but it is not that much "thinner" if at all, so it won't squeeze it's way through good seals and gaskets. The myths about it causing leaks are from years ago when syn oil technology was not as refined as it is today. With syn you can extend your oil change intervals, saving you the time and effort of having to change your oil more frequently (time is money, and you'll recoup the extra cost of the product). There's a reason why Porsches, Benzes, Corvettes, and several other high end cars use it straight from the factory, its simply better. If you understand the science behind the stuff then it is clear that syn is a better choice. Check Mobil 1's website for more info, and do a lot of research, you'll find a lot more info in favor of syn than dino.

I remember using dino and at 3000 miles you could feel the motor not running "frssh" and smooth like the day you put in fresh oil. With syn I go 5000 miles and at 4999 the engine still runs just as smooth as the day I put it in.

Another tip: Go to Walmart for your oil changes. Get your tires there (smokin' deal on special order Michelins with lifetime balancing and rotations), and every 5k miles just drive to any Walmart in the country and get a $30 Mobil 1 oil change and a free tire balance and rotation. Plus you go in the store and pick up some crap that you always need. You kill a bunch of birds with one trip, and its cheap. Their service seems to be fine, I think they pay decent attention to doing the job right because of the weight of the company, more so than some of the little Jiffy Lube places.

 

www.bobistheoilguy.com


Sift their forum to find the ongoing AMSoil life test.
The basic outline is anyone, with any vehicle, of any mileage is welcome.
Rules:
The oil MUST be analysed periodically
The oil is NOT to be changed until an oil analisys says the oil is breaking down.
Oil consumption is normal. Keeping the oil topped off with fresh is OK.

So far there are a few cars using AMSoil already over 45,000 miles, one over 60,000 miles. Without a single changing...

You're not suppose to switch to synthetic if your vehicle already has a decent amount of mileage. Doing so will cause leaks to the engine seals because synthetic is so much thinner than dino oil..

That's completely incorrect. Anytime is a good time to make the switch, and years ago was the best time!!!

It's as bad as the "Don't swap to synthetic, because the old dino, and the new synthetic oils will mix". That arguement is ludacrist. So they mix? So what, people use to think that it would mix and produce 1.21 gigawatts through the flux capacitor and the HALO weapon would fire, destroying out corner of the universe!?!?!?!?

If the seals are busted, they will leak. If they are still in good condition they will not.








*********************
Guys the type of oil DOES NOT cause the seals to leak. If synthetic oil leaks from a seal THEN THE SEAL was ALREADY BROKEN BEFORE THE OIL WAS INTRODUCED AND SHOULD HAVE BEEN REPLACED. Dino oil simply isn't leaking YET. The problem is already there regardless of synthetic OR dino oil.

 

It's no different that running synthetic for 300,000 miles and haivng a leaky seal and swapping to dino.


You don't solve anything. You just did a quick patch until the next paycheck... It's like putting leak-stop in a radiator. You don't do it to fix the problem, you do it to get your ass home so you can fix it at a more convieant time.

 

That's completely incorrect. Anytime is a good time to make the switch, and years ago was the best time!!!

It's as bad as the "Don't swap to synthetic, because the old dino, and the new synthetic oils will mix". That arguement is ludacrist. So they mix? So what, people use to think that it would mix and produce 1.21 gigawatts through the flux capacitor and the HALO weapon would fire, destroying out corner of the universe!?!?!?!?

Let me clarify what I said, if you switch to synthetic you're increasing the chance of leaky seals. Yes they are meant to be replaced, but it takes labour which costs money. I did not say you can't mix them.

(This is from the word of a Lexus Pro Mechanic. I'm sure other more experienced people here can back this up aswell. TonytheTiger? 88LE? Wraith?)

 

I was just giving the "mixing oil is bad" as an example of dumb arguements. You didn't imply that in any way, so noone else think that.

 

(This is from the word of a Lexus Pro Mechanic. I'm sure other more experienced people here can back this up aswell. TonytheTiger? 88LE? Wraith?)

I don't trust any mechanics. Both the shop manager and the mechanic who did my last trans flush had no idea that Mobil 1 made a synthetic transmission fluid, nor had either ever heard of Amsoil Lubricants before. Many of these guys are not nearly as knowledgable as they should be about their own profession.

 

Why should they be? They buy the cheapest brand crap they can afford and pump it into their overhead storage, then charge you like it's good stuff!

 

every mercedes benz recommends mobil 1 syntec...

 

For my car I have been jummping back and forth with Syntec and dino oil for 4yrs. because i don't have the income or i don't feel like it, for the syntec oil and there have been no oil leaks what so ever. With 177,XXXmiles and going still running like new. my car have Syntec oil for p/s, Tranny, brake and engine. Sometime I change the oil at 5-7K miles too.

 

That's completely incorrect. A lot of times if you switch to synthetic you will start leaking oil because the dino oil made a seal wherever leaks were possible. I say especially if it's an older car, just use dino oil and change every 3k miles and enjoy years of reliability.

No, it's not. The mechanism you refer to exists, but is rare. If an engine is heavily varnished or sludged, the crud will form a coating over the engine's various seals. Over time, deprived of the "moisturizing" additives in the oil, the seals dry out and shrink slightly. Most varieties of syn oils are much better at cleaning than dino oils, so if you add them to an engine like I just described, you can get temporary leaking when the clean syn suddenly washes away much of the accumulated crud, and hits the shrunken seals. They'll leak some until the oil re-swells them. I've used syn oils for about 20 years now, including on two occasions introducing it to well used engines, and I've never seen a leak. Ever.

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{snip}

The reason I ask is a friend is running Magnatec, fully synthetic oil in his 86 Celica. Even when cold this oil was soooo thin, like water. And I said I don't know If id recommend using it. He seems to have no probs running it tho.

Thanx.

Synthetics are not "thinner" per se than dino oils. Viscosity classifications are for ranges of "thickness". In other words, a 30 wt oil must measure within a certain range on the centi-Stoke scale. This is true whether the oil is a dino or a syn, same rules for both. The Mobil-1 products all run on the thin end of their viscosity ranges, particularly the 30 wt products. Other mfrs have syn products that run on the thick side of their ranges. Get a hold of a bottle of SAE 60 wt racing synthetic oil (non-multigrade) , and see if your belief that syns are "thin" doesn't change a bit.

===========================================

As suggested earlier in this thread, check out BITOG, especially the Used Oil Analysis section, which you will find HERE . The reams of OBJECTIVE LAB DATA will lay to rest these misguided opinions. It's lots of fun too. . .