scratch wat i said last i read the form wrong. it failed from the mil light. so the code p0430 cat efficiency below threshod (bank 2). whats that mean and how do i fix that?

 

Replace the exhaust manifold catalytic converter closest to the radiator.

 

Do you mean oxygen sensor?

 

Isn't there a quick 'n dirty fix involving a certain model of "spark plug anti-fouler", where the anti-fouler screws into the exhaust bung and the O2 sensor screws into the anti-fouler? The theory is that it gets the sensor out of the exhaust stream so it won't throw a code, yet doesn't look terribly bogus on the visual inspection. Not condoning this, mind you, but sometimes you just don't have the scratch to buy a cat right away and need to save up for it, but the car needs a smog sticker now.

 

Yes. Used on the downstream/rear o2 sensor for that bank. In this case a P0430 is bank 2 of the v6.

 

Before you star replacing cats. I would replace the down stream (after the cat) O2 sensor, not the one at the exhaust manifold (upstream). 9 times out of ten this fixes a catalyst efficiency code. The upstream measures the exhaust before the cat and the downstream after the cat to see if the cat is working.

Isn't there a quick 'n dirty fix involving a certain model of "spark plug anti-fouler", where the anti-fouler screws into the exhaust bung and the O2 sensor screws into the anti-fouler?

You could do this, but if the inspector sees it you will fail anyways. Besides if you are taking the sensor out you might as well just replace it.

 

thanks guys for the input ill be sure to change out these o2 sensors. hopefully not the cat since cats are expensive

 

can sum1 please point me in the right direction where to buy a this 02 sensor?

 

Just so your clear. The o2 sensors are rarely the cause of the catalyst efficiency CEL. Its almost always the cat. Brief explanation about the sensors. The rear/downstream o2 sensor's reading results in the efficiency code, I know that because I'm running an anti-fouler to keep my light out. The rear/downstream o2 would not be the one to replace. Explained more below. The front/upstream sensor would be a better choice because of its dual function. First function is measuring the air/fuel mixture coming out of the engine, adjusting mixture for the optimal rich/lean burn. The other role is to take the initial reading of exhaust gasses entering the cat (to be compared with the rear sensor's reading).

Example: If the front/upstream o2 became lazy and set the fuel mix too rich, that would mean a higher than normal amount of exhaust gas passing over the cat which "could" trigger a failure on a cat that's lost its efficiency over the years. Replacing the front/upstream o2, "might" result in a leaner fuel mix, allowing the cat to keep up. If your gas mileage is not so good, that would be an indicator. If the rear/downstream o2 gets lazy, that may be a good thing, its plugged up with carbon, unable to get an accurate reading, which is good. The anti-fouler I run is basically plugging the sensor so it appears there is not much gas coming out of the cat compared to what went in. So as unlikely as it may be, the choice would be try replacing the front/upstream o2 sensor for bank 2. Hope that makes sense.

rockauto.com has the best prices on sensors. Use Denso OE replacement only

 

thanks this helped alot. but im getting mixed answers here. change the rear downstream or front upstream 02 sensor. or change the cat. should i just change them all? should i just change the cat? since you said a bad 02 would throw a different code? if i do change the cat where can i buy the right one? im from cali so not many places will sell a cat to a California residence

 

so i replaced the o2 sensor nothing happend. so im going to change the cat. is this the correct one to buy?

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...56015/02404.oap?year=2002&make=Toyota&model=Camry&vi=1388741&pt=C2384&ppt=C0022

 

That appears to be correct, but did you clear the codes after installing the O2 sensor and did the error return? If not, do so and check. Some things take time to reset by themselves.

 

no i didnt clear the code. but i drove the car almost 300 miles already. cant take that long

 

Good move not clearing the code. Takes a few driving cycles to clear on its own if its going to. Clearing the code you wont know the truth. Looks like it wasnt that. Now the question is you failed for a lit CEL not a smog test right? Also, do they lift the car and inspect underneath?

 

yes i failed for the lit mil light and passed on emissions. they dont look undercar.

 

OK. So you replaced the front/pre-cat o2 sensor, no success. The cats still good enough to pass emissions, so its down to extinguishing Toyota's high efficiency CEL. That is done by installing an anti-fouler between the rear o2 sensor and the exhaust.

What you need to do is remove the rear o2 and screw it into this..

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Spark-Plug-Non-Foulers---18mm-Gasket-Seat-Dorman---Help_5014999-P_N3124_A|GRP2037___

then screw that into the exhaust. Assume thats the right size, same as my 02 Camry. There are 2 in the package, only 1 is required. The anti-fouler requires a slight modification so the sensor fits through the hole in the anti-fouler. 5 mins with a drill and 1/2 bit. PM me if you need help.

 

would they sell that at a local autozone/pepboys/oreilly? is this the only way to make that mil light go away?

 

You can check if they do. Short of replacing a cat that is passing emissions, I'd try this first. Working for me. There is nothing wrong with your car. bad programming, your resolving that.

 

I just enlarged the image, the failure is "Air Injection". The cat shows as a pass. Hmm.. A P0430 is catalyst efficiency code, air injection is?

 

so i finally got to change the exhaust manifold cat closest to the radiator. cost almost 550$ for the manifold. the Check engine light is still there. if i corrected the problem from changing the cat how long until the check engine light clears?



the picture shown isnt the full image. its missing like the last part. it failed because of a MIL light. like it shows first result then ecs, result-ecs , result-ecs etc. its not showing the last Ecs

 

A few drive cycles/a couple of days it should clear. How long has it been?

 

i changed out the cat yesturday. was a real pain. lol. but i only drove it maybe 10 miles so far. im scared to drive since the car isnt registered yet and im afraid of being pulled over.

 

Try warming it up idling for 20 mins/half hour a few times from a cold start. May work. You can always clear the CEL, but you'll be left wondering if its fixed until its on the road.

 

if the mil light doesnt go away. wat could be the problem?

 

You've changed the o2's and the man cat so I think you've resolved it. But the car cant get proper drive cycles to clear on its own because its not on the road. If its bugging you go ahead and clear it however you choose (scanner, removing neg battery terminal for 20 mins, etc.) If it comes back then try to figure something else out. But there really isn't much else that could cause it.

 

Random P0420 simply means your at the programed ECU catalyst efficiency threshold and under certain driving conditions below the threshold which triggers the CEL. Eventually it will stay on permanently as the catalyst clogs with carbon and loses efficiency. Example condition is exiting the highway. You let off the gas for the exit ramp, hit the brakes, stop, look down, there it is. Drive around town, goes away. Because your not passing as much gas over the catalyst around town it can handle it.

How to reduce exhaust gasses so the catalyst stays healthy? The obvious starts at a tuneup and a TB cleaning. Secondary causes are oil consumption, vacuum leaks and fuel trim related electronic components (lazy pre-cat o2, fouled MAF, etc).

 

Bump
any update on cel light


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