Centric doesn't offer details on the Premium rotor metallurgy. The C-Tek uses the standard G3000 metallurgy (most drums use the weaker, softer G1800 metallurgy that has more carbon). So I think Premium is just C-Tek passed through an e-coat line (at least that's what Centric medium duty truck rotors with e-coats are, in Centric's brochure). It's primarily for rust resistance if your region has road salt problems but not rust-proof.

As far as the high carbon rotors, it may be between G3000 and G1800. Centric said "Centric 125 Series High Carbon Alloy Brake Rotors contain an advanced metallurgy that greatly reduces the possibility of pad squeal especially with higher friction, European style brake pad compounds."

High carbon rotors are commonly used on European cars with their very strong semi-met squealer compounds. They'll stop you fast on the German Autobahn, but $$$. They're also softer and wear faster, needing replacement with each set of pads. European's recent shift is towards ceramic rotors. If you use Akebono ProAct it's already quiet, but high carbon can give you an extra margin of quietness for more $.

I think the Akebono/Centric C-Tek combo is a good one for most. Or Akebono/Centric Premium in rusty areas.

SAE paper on iron:
http://www.sae.org/events/bce/tutorial-ihm.pdf

 

I think the Akebono/Centric C-Tek combo is a good one for most. Or Akebono/Centric Premium in rusty areas.

SAE paper on iron:
http://www.sae.org/events/bce/tutorial-ihm.pdf

I used the Akebono Centric premium on my Vibe Per JohnGD recomendation. The setup is great. Just did it a month ago

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I'm also suspicious that the Centric Premium rotor with E-coating is just the regular C-Tek with the added E-coating. I don't live in an area with snow or salty roads, so I don't think the E-coating would really benefit me.

Thanks John GD for your answer and the link.

 

I'm also pretty confident that the Premium is just the C-Tek with the E-coating. However, I do find that coating to be useful with staving off the rust.

The high carbon rotors are actually not useful for most non-European cars at all, as JGD stated. This is an email reply I got back from Centric when I emailed them awhile back asking why the 125 HC rotors were available for the front axle but not the rear:

The High Carbon rotors are really designed to be used with an abrasive European style pad or abrasive type race pad. For street use, you won't be able to take advantage of the high carbon rotors. Additionally, there are no street type abrasive pads available for your vehicle. All the available pads for your vehicle are more adherent in nature. The 120 series premium rotors will offer longer life over the high carbon rotors for your application.

However, I found something better and cheaper: Fremax rotors. They are made in Brazil (NOT China!!!!!!!!!!!!) and they also have painted hubs for rust deterrent, plus you don't even have to clean them off for installation. They are also sold under the name VGX Platinum, and available on eBay from seller autopartsource. Just enter "autopartsource rotors [year] Camry")

I have C-Tek rotors and Axxis Deluxe pads on my car now, but the uneven pad transfer is starting to shake the wheel when I stop (commonly mis-called a warped rotor). I'm going to replace them with Fremax rotors and Akebono pads.

 

However, I found something better and cheaper: Fremax rotors. They are made in Brazil (NOT China!!!!!!!!!!!!) and they also have painted hubs for rust deterrent, plus you don't even have to clean them off for installation. They are also sold under the name VGX Platinum, and available on eBay from seller autopartsource. Just enter "autopartsource rotors [year] Camry")

I have C-Tek rotors and Axxis Deluxe pads on my car now, but the uneven pad transfer is starting to shake the wheel when I stop (commonly mis-called a warped rotor). I'm going to replace them with Fremax rotors and Akebono pads.

@bgmbgmbgm: How much are those Fremax rotors and how are they doing?

I'm also suspicious that the Centric Premium rotor with E-coating is just the regular C-Tek with the added E-coating. I don't live in an area with snow or salty roads, so I don't think the E-coating would really benefit me

I'm also pretty confident that the Premium is just the C-Tek with the E-coating. However, I do find that coating to be useful with staving off the rust.

i like the premuims. To me they look like a different type of steel the coating does seem to help with the rust.

Yes,

I ordered both for science and noticed a subtle difference in machining.

The Premiums had a better finish, beveled edges and the ORielly guy who checked both sets of rotors for balance and runout mentioned the Premiums were built to tighter specs.

Curious, I asked the mechanics I work for what the difference is and they said there would be no practical difference save for noise and life.
In theory, the Premiums would last longer, be resilient to rusting and make less noise.

In practice, they said if I installed then myself and drove in SoCAL, the Premiums would be a waste of money. They could see why someone in a more rust prone state might get value out of it.

I then experimented with both sets: I could not feel much of a difference between the Premium and the $10 rotor so after a month of experimentation, daily driving, I moved out and installed the Premium on a customer vehicle to recoup the cost. She was extremely happy to pay $17 for each of them as she was used to paying multiples of that and I recovered half of my investment.

In the end she gave me a $30 tip so I guess I got all my money back and some more. I think she googled the part numbers and decided they were cheap enough to pay in full because they were practically brand new.

I also used them with AutoZone brakepads and while I initially thought the free AutoZone warranty would be an excellent value, I dont see using the free warranty at all.

The C-Tek pads are HALF the price of what AutoZone charges so for me to break even I would have to do ateast two warranty replacements - which spans a period of over 7 years!

Of course I could have just listened to @JohnGD when he said I would come to the same conclusion momnths ago: https://www.toyotanation.com/forum/...-solara-1999-2003/867817-centric-brake-rotors-two-questions-2.html#post13418354
Keep in mind that I am the guy who installs eBay control arms and struts in my Camrys so I am easy to please.
My current favorite choice for brakes are $16 C-Tek pads w/ HW (30105620 (301.05620)) and the $16 C-Tek (12144078 (121.44078)) rotors.
LESS THAN $50 ALL IN for a complete front set that includes brake hardware.

I have purchased and installed these sets on over a dozen Camrys now and only ONE Camry has a brake squeal noise - the one I drive because I did a quick hack job and not rebuild the calipers properly and it came back to bite me as it should.

I took the risk because I knew I could fix it if I needed to which is an option I dont have on the other Camrys. I gambled and lost so I ordered the Caliper Repair Kit 14343004 (143.43004) and the CARLSON 16078 Pin Boot Kit Front; Disc; D562

After I am done with the current CV Axle job for a customer I will have time to redo my brakes in October and the squeal will be gone for good.

 

how on earth can you diagnosis "uneven pad transfer" without high speed video of rotor during stop? Have you taken the runout of the rotor to rule out a (much more common) warped rotor?

Akebono ProACT and the cheapest Centric rotors were night and day for me versus some no name Chinese rotors and the OEM pads from the dealer, my car went from unsafe to safe in about 30 min!

 

He's correct actually... there's no such things as a "warped rotor" - does not exist. "Warped rotor" is a common name for -drumroll- uneven pad transfer due to holding brakes on with highly heated rotors, or run-out of the hub which would lead to the same uneven pad transfer.

The pad transfer then causes bumps on the rotors, and such rotors are then referred to as "warped" by most. In reality, the rotor is even, with bumps from pad material transfer.

To make matters worse, due to overheating that cased the bumps that cause more overheating that caused even bigger bumps, the rotors metallurgy is now altered at those spots, which makes it more likely to cause "warped" rotors in the future even if you turn such rotors back to straight. Hence, best action is to just replace the rotor.

NOTE: you should always identify the root cause of the "warpage" in the first place. If it was due to uneven run-out of the hub, the "new" rotor will become "warped" again. It the root cause was excessive and inappropriate braking, then you need to modify your breaking techniques, or be prepared to replace the rotors more frequently.

EDIT: StopTech article on "warped" rotor myth: here

EDIT2: Just remembered: when replacing rotors, ALWAYS clean the hub to rotor surface. Even small amounts of rust or debris there can cause the rotors to seat unevenly, causing... "warped" rotors.

 

Yeah, I just say "warped" because it's easier to say, but I know it's unevenness and not usually warping. I "liked" the comment about the cheap Chinese rotors and OEM pads.

 

Glad that worked out for you.

 

How are the Dura/Pronto rotors? 1 year/12k miles vs 90 days/3k miles warranty on the Centric/C-tek
About the same price

I also noticed Akebono have a Premium line/Import Specialist Disc (ISD) now as well, slighty cheaper than the ProAct, are these any good?

 

Centric Premiums and Akebono pro act delivered for $100. Pinch me!

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Holy thread revival! :grin: Reviewing the website again, the Preimum is balanced to < 2 oz-inch. No words on the C-tek, except now they say it's using C11H18 metallurgy. So what's the final combo you've settled on?

 

On JohnGD recommendation many years ago I've been using Centric rotors. I get them from rockauto. I usually get the premiums. I have a lot of other people using them too. They've been great. I put the C-tek on my 2001 prism and 4 years and 28k miles of stop and go driving later they are great. I think they were $14 each! [emoji41]

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He he, too many people here tracking my decisions. I have to be careful around here.

I am thinking:

1. 2x CENTRIC 12144078 C-TEK + Autozone Duralast Gold pads on the first Camry that needs brakes today

2. Depending on how that goes, I might settle on the POWER STOP KOE1052 or the above for my second Camry that needs brakes tomorrow

Shipping does not matter because the KOE1052 is at a different location than the 121.44078

Or perhaps I should just go ahead and buy 2x CENTRIC 12144078 C-TEK + POWER STOP KOE1052 and pay shipping only once using the switcheroo trick (if it works till the end) and be done with it.

Too many options = analysis paralysis!

 

Insight likes Power Stop, supposed to be a good performer. Autozone you have brake pads for life! Decisions, decisions. :grin:

(I think two different combos are a good way to compare the two setups. Then next time you'd know. And let us know too!)

 

(I think two different combos are a good way to compare the two setups. Then next time you'd know. And let us know too!)

I have the following in my cart:

1. 4x CENTRIC 12144078 C-TEK
2. 1x "POWER STOP 17562 Evolution Plus Pads w/ Hardware
Front; OE Ceramic Z17"

One pair 12144078 I will use with Autozone Duralast Gold >

Other pair 12144078 I will use with POWER STOP 17562 0

What do you think? :nerd:

 

The "Z17" looks like "Z16" ceramic pads plus hardware kit for ~$2 more. (http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3959415&jsn=__GIP__2__). The pad supposedly has 20% more stopping power than "leading brands", whatever that means.
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...-2001-1st-gen-solara-1999-2003/1512738-power-stop-rotors-pads.html#post12699178

C-Tek rotors are $15.71 each plus shipping. So at about $51 the C-Tek/17562 are a pretty good deal. Maybe you want to delay the Autozone combo (Duralast Gold pads at $35.99) and wait to see how this Powerstop setup works for you? After all, for example, the OEM supplier Akebono Proact is already $43.79, whereas Powerstop 17562 is only $18.90!! So while Autozone's DL-G is cheaper than Akebono, it's also about 2x the price of Powerstop, even if you'll get free pads in the future with Autozone. You'd need to use 2 (or more) sets of DL-G after 160-180K miles to be even with Powerstop. I guess it depends on how long the pads last and how long you'd keep the cars. Insight gets 80-90K out of the pads, which is comparable to Akebonos. Also, to be eligible for free replacement, DL-G pads have to wear evenly?

Looks like adding the pads don't add any more to the shipping cost. You can try dividing up the orders into 2 sets of 2 rotors plus pads. Each set should be about $9 shipping, depending where you are. I set it to 4 rotors and the shipping went from $9 to $18 (same to both east/west coasts). So if you buy 2 rotors, the pads ship free with them. That way you don't have to order 4 rotors at the same time, unless you want to. Of course it also boils down to if you don't use DL-G, you'd never know. :wink:

 

C-Tek rotors are $15.71 each plus shipping. So at about $51 the C-Tek/17562 are a pretty good deal. Maybe you want to delay the Autozone combo (Duralast Gold pads at $35.99) and wait to see how this Powerstop setup works for you? After all, for example, the OEM supplier Akebono Proact is already $43.79, whereas Powerstop 17562 is only $18.90!! So while Autozone's DL-G is cheaper than Akebono, it's also about 2x the price of Powerstop, even if you'll get free pads in the future with Autozone

yes, financially getting two sets of the C-TEK and POWER STOP 17562 is the best value
However, you and I decided to test the Duralast, so while it costs me more, I want to give back what I can to this community.
I will document how each set works out so we can figure out if these less expensive options to Akebonos are comparable or not

Also, it looks like insightbrewery already kinda beat me to it based off the link you attached: http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...-2001-1st-gen-solara-1999-2003/1512738-power-stop-rotors-pads.html#post12699178
@insightbrewery, by the "Powerstop ceramic kits" you wrote about here: http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...-2001-1st-gen-solara-1999-2003/1512738-power-stop-rotors-pads.html#post12699178

Did you mean to suggest this: "POWER STOP 17562 Evolution Plus Pads w/ Hardware" from the following:

http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/toyota,1998,camry,2.2l+l4,1767,brake+&+wheel+hub,brake+pad,1684

? >:nerd:

 

i like the premuims. To me they look like a different type of steel the coating does seem to help with the rust.