It could also be the throw out bearing is starting to go and when it's pressed up against the pressure plate the force/load on it will quiet it down. Most clutch jobs include the throw out bearing but since the pilot bearing is pressed into the end of the crank it sometimes gets over looked. If the throw-out bearing goes they can break into peices, no more shifting!
The pilot bearing wearing out allows the transmissions input shaft to wobble which in time will wear out transmission bearings. The engagement issue sounds like a pedal adjustment issue.

 

There is no engagement issue...

 

I was refering to this comment in your description "when I bought it the engagement was much more narrow."

 

That's generally what happens when a new clutch is broken in. When it's brand new it feels like the engagement point is very narrow, then once it's broken in usually it will feel more gradual.

 

Most likely it's either a throwout bearing or a clutch disc damper spring rattling. It could be a input shaft bearing which would require total disassembly of the transmission by a professional to access the bearing. I would expect other issues which you claim are not present such as noise/whine in other gears. I recommend you drain the trans fluid and look for heavy amounts of metal particles before doing the job. if the fluid doesn't have them then it's a safe bet that the trans has no internal damage. Make sure you warm it up first. Since they supposedly replaced the clutch, they may have used cheap crap parts. This could certainly be the root cause of your issue.

 

I'm gonna take it to my mechanic to see what he says... I have a feeling when they replaced the clutch they probably did it as cheaply as possible, as it was the dealer I bought it from that replaced it and I assume they just want to move the car and maximize profit... seems unlikely that there's anything internally wrong with the transmission, I was under the impression the input shaft bearing was what the clutch hooks up with on the transmission side, but I guess I'm wrong.

 

I developed the same noise with the same symptoms shortly after doing the 6 speed swap on my 08 corolla, I used the exedy stage 1 clutch kit from monkey wrench racing. Probably did about 10-15k miles then I did a engine swap and I checked the throw out bearing and it seemed smooth and fine. Nothing seemed loose on the clutch pressure plate. So my noise appears to be the input shaft bearing possibly.

I followed monkey wrench racing’s recommendation of using synchromesh fluid instead of a 75-90 like the manual states. I kinda wonder if I put in the heavier fluid if it would quite it down or make the noise go away. Synchromesh is pretty thin fluid.


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Few things I noticed today, no noise whatsoever when it's cold. Clutch pedal is a bit squeaky, not sure if that's the pedal itself or something with the clutch.

What type of tranny fluid does this 6 speed take? Can't hurt to replace it... Who knows if it's ever been changed in the last 16 years...

 

Also where s the dipstick for the tranny? I can't find it...

 

No dipstick on the manual transmission. Not sure which car you have but this info is from a 2005 Corolla Owners Manual:
MANUAL TRANS AXLE Oil capacity, L (qt., Imp. qt.):6−speed2.3 (2.4, 2.0)
Oil type:Gear oil API GL−4 or GL−5
Recommended oil viscosity:SAE 75W−9

 

Throw out bearing isn't submerged in fluid. But the input shaft bearings are and I could see them being subject to temperature change noises.

 

Yeah that's kind of why I thought it was the input shaft bearing.. also all the results on google describe the noise for a bad input shaft bearing as the same thing I described. I recorded a few clips so you can hopefully hear what I'm talking about. Also I recorded a few clips of driving so you can see there really isn't any abnormal noise from the transmission while driving (at least I can't hear anything). Also show that when the clutch pedal is disengaged you can hear the chattering noise completely stops, then when engaged starts up again. Can't really hear this in any gear besides neutral but it might just be because it's not loud enough compared to the motor and road noise....

noise is most obvious around 30 seconds... It's kind of hard to hear over the motor and the rapid clicking from my cruise control module...

 

No dipstick on manuals. I'm not 100% sure for the 6spd but on the 5's the fill and drain plugs are 24mm.

Also is there noise when driving? Input bearing noises are present in nuetral and gear. Disengaging the clutch stops the noise because both the input shaft and throwout bearing are disengaged. There are a few input shaft bearings you wouldn't know which one without complete disassembly of the transmission.

 

Not really, I mean you can watch that video, it really only makes noise in neutral at idle

 

I've used rp syncrhomax gl4 75-90w. I am planning to go back to redline MT90. But might use mwr's cocktail.

1 qt Valvoline stnchromesh
2 qt redline MT90

They have this as a recommendation, but I forgot where I saw it. Might have been on their transmission or engine swaps link.

 

This thread may be of some help.

DIY Manual Transmission Fluid Change

This is a guide to help you with your manual transmission fluid change, It doesn't cover automatic transmissions in which different steps, parts, and tools are required. Notes: I am doing this on my XRS with a C60 6-Speed Manual Transmission (same as the Matrix XRS and Celica GT-S). For the...

www.toyotanation.com

 

Hmm. I wonder if under load maybe the input bearings are quieting down.

I'd change the fluid first. See what kind of shape it's in. Usually new fluid is put in during a clutch job but maybe the dealer didn't.

 

Haven't taken it to the mechanic yet but I have noticed the squeaking noise when i push in the clutch is definitely coming from the engine bay...

 

It is likely the pivot ball and fork being noisy in the slave cylinder.

DIY 2003-2008 Corolla, Matrix, Pontiac Vibe Squeaky...

Hello everyone. I have been getting some unbelievable annoying squeak when depressing the clutch lately. I have encountered this a few times before in other Toyota models and instantly new the problem. Finally got around to fixing it today. Sorry for the lack of more pictures. It was a tough...

www.toyotanation.com

 

Drive the car and shift up to 5th gear normally, push the clutch in, keep it in and turn off the engine. As you slow down downshift to the lower gears, still with the engine off and the clutch still on the floor.
If you hear the noise without the engine turning then it can't be anything in the clutch. Its not moving, the disc is spinning between the flywheel and pressure plate, which are not moving.
If you hear the noise then it will get louder as you downshift and typically most noisy in 1st gear, no need to downshift at high speeds 5th to 4th at 20 mph down to 5 mph into first through all the gears like you are downshifting.
No noise in this test means input shaft bearing should be good, It's spinning in gear and even in neutral for a time until it stops spinning if left in neutral long enough.

 

Drive the car and shift up to 5th gear normally, push the clutch in, keep it in and turn off the engine. As you slow down downshift to the lower gears, still with the engine off and the clutch still on the floor.
If you hear the noise without the engine turning then it can't be anything in the clutch. Its not moving, the disc is spinning between the flywheel and pressure plate, which are not moving.
If you hear the noise then it will get louder as you downshift and typically most noisy in 1st gear, no need to downshift at high speeds 5th to 4th at 20 mph down to 5 mph into first through all the gears like you are downshifting.
No noise in this test means input shaft bearing should be good, It's spinning in gear and even in neutral for a time until it stops spinning if left in neutral long enough.

I tried this. Didn't hear anything at all.

 

Conversely if you hear the noise with the tranny in gear and the clutch on the floor, engine running, then throwout bearing becomes the prime suspect. You can spin it out of the car and listen for the bearing rumbling, probably hear it, in the car, with a techs stethoscope with the engine running, clutch depressed in gear=(tranny innards stationary).

 

If you've never check the fluid level, start with topping it off. Then go see your mechanic for a diagnosis, then take it back to the place that did the work if it has a warranty they should make it right.

 

Unfortunately the dealer did the work and the warranty was 30days engine+trans. I really had no issues with the car the first 30 days lol...
also have put over 6000 miles on it since then.

 

I'm interested to see what this is gonna be because nothing else seems logical. Loose fly wheel bolts can make a nasty rattle like that. But I would think the noise would be present on your drive as well.

 

Hopefully the OP got everything dialed in over the past 3 years!

 

gut feeling for me is the pressure plate or flywheel bolts. dealer probably changed clutch maybe but dealers do shady stuff in general. hard pressed to find out exactly whats going on without pulling it off. Luckily 2zz/c60 not terrible to work on and can be done. Also running redline mt90 over here.

 

What ended up being the issue??