So here's the deal with camber.
Strut is secured to the hub knuckle with two very stout bolts. The way McPherson suspension geometry is, as that's what you have, those 2 bolts grately influence entire strut assey lean inward or outward. That is camber. Camber, it its turn greatly influences how vehicle steers down the road.
On some makes, those bolts have eccentric heads, allowing camber adjustment. Toyota chose to provide none of such convenience. You can't adjust camber.
Hence, condition of those bolts mating surface and strut brackets for those bolts directly influences camber. As you understand, over time, bolt mating surface wears out. Looks like a groove in it. What tosses camber out of alignment. Possibly, knuckle through holes for those bolts enlarge some also.
Whatever the cause, on high mileage car, camber ends up being out of spec. The only way to fix this is to use camber bolts on top connections.
Camber bolts are $30 or so kit of 2 parts stores. They allow to adjust camber to spec, but that can be done only on alignment lift. unless, you are very good with crawling under the car and adjusting it in such tight space. As vehicle wheels must be loaded for that alignment. Also, you will have to some sort of spirit level to show you the spec. That is easy, that's $20 piece from Home Depot. Spec is usually 0 degrees. Pretty much, vertical.
les Schwab, for example, wanted $180 just to have them installed. $30 vs $180. Same darn bolts. Firestone (gods, I did say the word...) had no clue how to adjust them.... I stood there and watched. Finally, took my car out of there bay and refunded what they charged me. Pitiful.
Also, keep in mind, you will need A LOT of torque for those bolts, camber or not. 96 Lb/ft I believe, if not more. So having a cheat pipe or breaker bar is required. As they carry your vehicle weight on them. Easy for me to do, I have ridiculously powerful air gun. But tackling this as DIy, you have ot be prepared.