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Contacted RS*R About Lowering Springs.

33K views 78 replies 15 participants last post by  ma13c  
#1 ·
So they posted up the camera rig hatchback they are all proud to have their springs on in a post on Facebook. I replied with "would be nice if you'd put them on the site so we can order them". And then they responded with contacting them to order them.

So since I have the money set aside to order some springs I went ahead and contacted them via email asking some general questions about them. Spring rates (believe it or not, this is important info to me as I always try to set up my cars to handle VERY well.), amount of drop, and price was really the only info I was looking for. The first response was the following:

_______________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Thank you for getting in contact with us,

This product has not been release it yet, as soon we have it available
for purchase, you can see all the specifications in our website.

We will save your contact information, and update you if anything
changes it.
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Since I was being told conflicting information, I went ahead and responded with the info I was given, and that they were available for purchase according to whom ever handles the FB page. They then responded with this:

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

We have finished the development, and they will be available for sale soon. We just currently do not have any in stock, and have not received the shipment yet. As soon we have it for sale we will let you know.

_________________________________________________________________________________________________________________


Now I did some homework on RS*R Global and found the rates and drop for the Corolla Sport (hatchback in Japan) however, as I mentioned in a post on another thread (listing the specs I dug up), those front spring rates (2.9KG I think) may work well for the 1.2L turbo engine offered in Japan, but probably not enough for the 2.0L motor we get in the states.


If I find out more, I'll update. But those who are looking for lowering kits, looks like RS*R will soon be available and are just awaiting shipment. I'm really hoping Tanabe puts up a set soon as well. I've ran DF210 Tanabe springs in the past and have always been my spring of choice when not going with coilovers.
 
#2 ·
Just an update. Before work today, I emailed Tanabe to see if they were going to offer springs like the NF or DF210's for the Hatchback. I have not heard back yet on this, however I really hope they are.

I've ran Tanabe DF210's on 2 cars (scion xB1 and xb2) and loved them. Probably the best ride + performance + appearance combo spring on the market. They usually do a lot of parts for Toyota's so I hope this doesn't get looked over.

Once springs start hitting the market I expect to see stablizer bars roll out as well. Ebiach usually makes the parts that are labeled TRD anyhow, so hopefully that partnership continues and we get a few good upgrade options for the suspension.
 
#4 · (Edited)
Cusco have interesting parts for the C-HR, most of which fit Corolla Hatchback.

28/26mm stabilizer/sway bars https://www.cusco.co.jp/en/images/Toyota_CHR_20170724_JPY.pdf


Hardrace 12th gen Corolla parts- 28/25.4mm

http://www.hardrace.com/VEHICLE_Search.asp?Car_Make=21&Car_model=61&Car_Type=631&x=23&y=8



I wasn't sure if the TNGA-C suspension was used on the CHR or not so I hadn't really looked at parts for conversion. I knew it was built on the Corolla platform but wasn't sure which. Apparently it was the sedan then they switched to TNGA-C. So hey good news there!

(edit for update)


GOOD NEWS EVERYONE!

The CHR springs, shocks, and swaybars use the same part numbers for the Corolla. In fact, if you are looking up parts through Toyota it'll say "used on multiple cars". Click it and 19 CHR and 19 Corolla use the same. Sway bars also the same part number.

The difference that could matter though is curb weights. So the CHR weights in at 3300 and the Corolla Hatchback at 3060.

Now if I can only find the weight distribution. I seen RSR list the rear springs higher rates than the front (1.2T AWD). This is good because it helps take out the under steer OEM's typically put into cars to "keep them safe". But too much rear spring will make the car more unpredictable in corning so spring rates still a mild concern. Once RS*R publishes their 2.0 FWD spring rates we can compare them to 1.2T AWD version (sold in japan) and know a little more. I have a feeling the AWD rates are going to be better for the FWD.
 
#10 · (Edited)
I really need to get me one of these, especially now with my lift kit under full power at highway speeds while overtaking... An upgraded rear sway bar was the best mod for 9th gen Corolla.

Free overnight delivery from Japan! :D

https://www.ebay.com/itm/CUSCO-Rear...Toyota-C-HR-NGX50/163159501057?hash=item25fd106901:g:noUAAOSwGNNbUqtg:rk:2:pf:0

$255 shipped from Taiwan http://www.aleksracing.com/search/?search=c-hr&description=true&sub_category=true

The 2019 Corolla Hatchback already has a front strut bar made of stamped steel, and bolted up around the upper strut mounts, by the way.
 
#11 ·
I really need to get me one of these, especially now with my lift kit under full power at highway speeds while overtaking... An upgraded rear sway bar was the best mod for 9th gen Corolla.

Free overnight delivery from Japan! :D

https://www.ebay.com/itm/CUSCO-Rear...Toyota-C-HR-NGX50/163159501057?hash=item25fd106901:g:noUAAOSwGNNbUqtg:rk:2:pf:0

$255 shipped from Taiwan http://www.aleksracing.com/search/?search=c-hr&description=true&sub_category=true

The 2019 Corolla Hatchback already has a front strut bar made of stamped steel, and bolted up around the upper strut mounts, by the way.



Ideally you'd want a 3 point solid brace for the front. Connecting the strut tower to the firewall. I really don't feel like tearing the wiper cowl off to look, so it'll have to wait until I can judge if it should be replaced or not.





But I too have thought about going with the Cusco sway bars. The rear should be pretty easy to put in, but the front I'm not looking forward to.When you look at the pictures on Cusco JP you'll see they have the H frame off the car to put it on.
 
#14 ·
#16 · (Edited)
For those that are interested, the RSR Superdown springs (part # 577S) are now in stock and ready to ship. Spring rates are frt -2.63k and rr - 4.29k. I believe the drop was 45-50mm for both frt and rr. It will also include (2) bumpstops to replace the oem ones.

The springs aren't listed yet on their website but you can order by calling RSR directly or thru a distributor.
 
#20 ·
Update- Ordered a set of RS-R springs. And further more, because the OEM shocks will probably not handle the drop for long, I have contacted Koni Suspension about shocks. The upside to this is, if they are interested in making shocks for the cars, and need a donor car, I am only about 1 hr from their US HQ. So as long as it doesn't require leaving my car their over night, I can take a trip up to Koni to have the measurements done.
 
#22 ·
Coilovers may be the better bet. If you don't mind the more firm ride they often have you'll probably be better off money wise. With springs you should consider the price of replacement shocks/struts because a big drop (more than 1") will not likely last long on the OEM shocks/struts. Even with shorter bump stops. But hopefully KYB, Koni, or Tokico will offer a suitable performance shock to pair up with the spring options.
 
#27 ·
Image

Image



I'm a low life.


Seriously though, much flatter cornering and braking. OK over harsh bumps (not as comfy as stock, but acceptable).

Easy to install BUT the fronts are time consuming. You'll be removing the wiper arms, wiper assembly, wipe cowl/louver, (3) 14mm bolts on strut mount, (2) 22mm bolt/nuts on strut knuckle, (1) 14mm bolt for brake/speed sensor, and (1) 17mm bolt for sway bar end link. Then you do need spring compressors to lock the springs in place, and a 19mm to remove the top hat assembly bolt after removing the dust cover.

Rears however you need a 14mm socket, and 17mm wrench. Hammer helps too. Remove wheel, remove 14mm bolt and 17mm nut from lower control arm. Push down on control arm and springs comes out.
 
#36 · (Edited)
RS-R specifies 6kg/mm rate springs for both front and rear... Here are some with better adapted spring rates for proper lighter rear compliance, for less than half the cost.


Megan Racing 5 kg/mm / 4 kg/mm https://coiloverdepot.com/collectio...llections/toyota/products/2017-toyota-c-hr-megan-racing-coilovers-street-series

(HD photos) https://meganracing.com/suspension/mr-cdk-tchr17.html


BC Racing 5 kg/mm / 4.5 kg/mm (generic photo) https://www.coiloverwarehouse.com/p...use.com/product/2018-2019-toyota-c-hrzyx10-br-series-coilovers?gfid=p3404-c3300

(actual photo) https://raceshop.ca/bc-racing-16-toyota-c-hr-bc-racing-coilovers-br-type.html
 
#42 · (Edited)
Image



So funny story: Call Toyota to schedule an appointment after 12pm (because I work nights). Well, apparently my Toyota dealer doesn't do afternoon alignments. (Seriously? WTF?) So instead I decided to give my money to Tire Discounters. Told them I'd like the toe set close to zero on the front and rear as possible. After looking at me like a fool, I explained that I don't want any of the factory under steer caused by the OEM alignment specs. He kinda looked at me like I was nuts, but then again, I was probably the first person to request a non OEM spec since most people I know drive about 30-45 minutes to a different shop for performance alignment (local auto-x guy runs a midas and is willing to do performance alignment at request including simulated driver weight)


Anyhow, there are my specs after lowering. I did add a little positive toe (or toe out) before going in to correct a lot of the negative toe, so the numbers should actually be higher on toe settings. I did this to reduce some tire scrubbing just in case it took me a week or two to get it into a alignment shop. Looking at the rear camber numbers means going to have to go with some adjustable linkage. More than likely upper control arms. I didn't remember seeing a cam bolt when I was under there so there really isn't any factory rear camber adjustments to be made. But with the toe gone, the camber shouldn't really wear the tires down much. Same with the front, I think cam bolts are going to have to be used there as well to gain a little more camber. However a 22mm bolt probably not going to be easy to find a cam bolt that fits that hole properly. I would like to increase front camber to to at least -1 and the rears decreased to about -1.5 (and go from there on fine tuning)





OEM 19 HB alignment specs can be found in a PDF attached in this thread. As you can see if you look at the specs they loaded, it was from a 14/18 Sedan. with smaller tires and wheels. (xse as I have uses a 18"x8" with a 225 width). Looking at the PDF although the caster is a bit much, it does fall into specs of +/- .75". Hard part about McPherson struts is that the caster is hard to adjust with out effecting toe. However with that much caster, it should produce decent camber under load while turning. Meaning you can get away with less camber in a straight line.



https://www.toyotanation.com/forum/...-12th-gen-hatch-2019/1642566-new-member-wheel-offset-question.html#post13927552






PLEASE NOTE: Because some people don't think I have a clue what I am talking about (despite 2 years of formal training, and about 20 years of actual wrenching/modifying cars mostly FWD or imports) the results I requested are NOT to be confused with OEM standards. I love touge driving. Mountain passes, hills, tail of the dragon (look it up), etc. Back roads are my home away from home. That being said, I try to set my suspensions up to be more of a performance set up. I'd rather a car over steer than under steer. If you don't aggressively drive your car, there is no need to go with my settings. Because honestly, once I get the feel for the new springs I am going to have to readjust the suspension again. But at least now, I have everything zero's and can do the rest my self using basic toe plates and camber measuring tricks.
 
#54 ·
Image


Anyhow, there are my specs after lowering. I did add a little positive toe (or toe out) before going in to correct a lot of the negative toe, so the numbers should actually be higher on toe settings. I did this to reduce some tire scrubbing just in case it took me a week or two to get it into a alignment shop.
You're still confused with toe, and throwing everyone off with your amazing claims of expertise... What you're trying to say is: "I did add a little negative toe (or toe out) to correct a lot of the positive toe, so the numbers should actually be positive rather than negative on toe settings."

As I mentioned, it will likely be excessively toed-in (+) after switching to rear lowering springs.

Refer to my 2019 alignment spec PDF.
 
#43 ·
Now that these have been out what do people really think about them? Besides the one guy here that said they’re amazing, every other thing I’ve seen online people say they’re “OK” but don’t go beyond that to why just ok. I’m still on the fence about buying these or waiting for the other company’s to release something.
 
#44 ·
RS-R doesn't dick around when it comes to suspension. You pay a higher price for a higher quality part. There's a good reason the RSR coilovers are $2K. And it's not because they are re-branded K-Sports/BC/D2/ETC. The springs rates (although IMO could be a little higher) are solid enough for comfortable city driving and increased performance for aggressive driving. Plus the 2" drop is about perfect for styling. With pretty much every other company (except custom order spring rates from Ebiach or Swift) you're going to get a softer rear spring than front. Now I tried to explain this earlier in another post, but if you didn't catch it, the stiffer spring rates help balance the car out and take away under steer.



There are a few of us around with the springs already on and going, but IDK how many people actually push their HBs like I do. On a performance aspect, my tires suck. Brand new tires yes, but no grip. This Sunday was the first decently warm day we've had since I've put the springs on. So you could have bet your bacon I went out for drive! As far as before and after on the same road (although less grip from unwashed salted surface) the car rolled a lot less. I'd say about a 40% to 50% decrease in body roll WITH the stock shocks (which also suck and are too soft and slow to respond). Now a set of Cusco CHR swaybars could fix this, but I'd rather have some proper shocks on the car before doing that. This way I could figure out if I can get away with a OEM front and aftermarket rear set up for more over steer and corner rotation.



IDK if I posted this here or not, but I'll post it again. Reviewing of the RSR Springs.
 
#49 ·
Just do it your self. Super easy. More so the rears. The rears is 1 bolt 1 nut. Boom done. The fronts are a little more time consuming because you need a spring compressor. BUT you can rent one or buy one from autopart stores. Basic tools and a jack stand is all you need. I actually did a YouTube live stream on both the front and rear installs. Not the best footage, but about 45 minutes per side on the front (including taking off the wipers/and looking around at stuff. lol) and about 30 minutes for both rears.