Toyota Forum banner

DIY 2003-2008 Corolla, Matrix, Pontiac Vibe 1ZZFE Upstream Oxygen Sensor Replacement

48K views 22 replies 10 participants last post by  hardtopte72  
#1 · (Edited)
So my intermittent P0031 check engine light for a failing primary A/F sensor heater, finally became a permanent check engine light. After checking the sensor’s heater circuit resistance, it was just out of spec (3.5 ohms vs. 1.8-3.4 ohms). So I decided to make a DIY for replacement of this sensor.

This DIY was performed on a 2005 Corolla 1ZZFE and will be identical for all 2003-2008 Corolla, Matrix, and Pontiac Vibe models with a 1ZZFE engine. Additionally, this DIY should apply similarly to 2003-2006 Matrix XRS and Pontiac Vibe GT and 2005-2006 Corolla XRS models.

Total time spent, including time to take pictures was around 40 minutes. It should take the average person 15-20 minutes for this job, not including time spent for the penetrating lubricant to work (if applicable).

Disclaimer: Myself or Toyotanation are not responsible for any damage or injury that may result from use of the DIY. Automotive maintenance and repair should be performed by qualified technicians. This DIY is for informational purposes, use it at your own risk.

Note: 2003-2004 FWD models and 2003-2006 AWD models use a “Narrow Band” Oxygen Sensor, while 2005-2008 FWD Models use a “Wide Band” Air Fuel Ratio Sensor. The 2003-2006 AWD models use the same "Narrow Band" sensor for all years, which is different from the 2003-2004 FWD and 2005-2008 FWD. These different sensors are not interchangeable and you must use the correct year and drivetrain specific sensor. The procedure is identical, regardless of the year or drivetrain.

Tools and Parts needed:

1/2 inch Drive Ratchet
1/2 inch Drive 22mm or 7/8 Inch Oxygen Sensor Socket
Small/Pocket Flathead Screwdriver
Penetrating Spray (PB Blaster or similar)
Gloves
Rags or towels
Digital Multimeter (optional but needs to measure resistance)



Part numbers:
OEM Toyota (Denso) -

2003-2004 1ZZFE Corolla, Matrix, Pontiac Vibe FWD - 89465-13030
2005-2008 1ZZFE Corolla, Matrix, Pontiac Vibe FWD - 89467-12010 or 89467-02020
2003-2006 Matrix and Pontiac Vibe AWD - 89467-12010

Denso Aftermarket (Same exact sensor as OEM) -

2003-2004 1ZZFE Corolla, Matrix, Pontiac Vibe FWD - 234-4800
2005-2008 1ZZFE Corolla, Matrix, Pontiac Vibe FWD - 234-9052
2003-2006 Matrix and Pontiac Vibe AWD - 234-4801

Warning: A hot engine can cause burns. Be sure the vehicle is cool before attempting this repair.

1. Park your car on a level surface, shut the engine off, and open the hood.



2. Locate the oxygen sensor on the exhaust manifold.



3. Remove the AF/O2 sensor connector. Using your hands or small flathead screwdriver, depress the center of the AF/O2 sensor connector.



4. Apply penetrating lubricant to the sensor threads. Apply your penetrating lubricant onto the threads of the exhaust manifold where the old sensor is located.

Note: Only apply enough to get on the threads. Since you don’t have a good view of the threads, you don’t want a large amount of penetrating lubricant on the exhaust pipe.

Note: After several minutes, hours, or days (depending on your specific location eg: rust belt states) prepare to remove the sensor. For my car, I waited maybe 5 minutes and the sensor came right out. I have worked on other cars where the sensor was so seized, it stripped the threads and had to be retapped.



5. Remove the AF/O2 sensor. Place your special 22mm or 7/8 inch oxygen sensor socket over the oxygen sensor in a way that you can attach your ratchet (ratchet portion towards you). Using your ½ inch drive ratchet, loosen the sensor from the manifold. Once the sensor is loose, use your hands to remove it all of the way and remove it from the vehicle.



6. Inspect your new sensor (optional). Once removed, compare the old sensor side by side with the new sensor to verify they are the same. Using your digital multimeter set to measure resistance (ohms), check the resistance value of the heater circuit of the AF/O2 sensor and verify the sensor is good before install.

2003-2004 FWD models and 2003-2006 AWD models: 5-16 ohms at 68°F
2005-2008 models: 1.8-3.4 ohms at 68°F

Note: The heater wires are the two black wires located at the top of the connector.



7. Prep the new sensor for install. Using the supplied anti-seize in the sensor package, carefully apply a small amount to the threads of the new sensor.

Caution: DO NOT get any anti-seize on the sensor body of the sensor head. Damage to the sensor may result.



8. Install the new sensor. Inspect the sensor hole to make sure it isn't damaged. With the sensor connector disconnected and while holding the wire with one hand, thread the sensor into the manifold with the other hand while making sure to keep the wire from becoming tangled in the heat shield or becoming twisted. Once the sensor is hand tight, using your ½ inch drive ratchet and 22mm or 7/8 inch oxygen sensor socket, tighten the AF/O2 sensor into the manifold. Reconnect the AF/O2 sensor connector making sure it clicks into place.



9. Start the engine and check for any unusual noise, rough running, or check engine lights.

10. Go for a test drive and verify everything operates as designed.

Enjoy your work! While this job is relatively inexpensive, you may save hundreds of dollars doing it yourself.

Hope this helps!
 
#2 · (Edited)
Very good info! Denso does supply enough of the high-heat anti-seize compound to do many various jobs.

I've been trying out a couple used downstream sensors to replace mine. Now I know I have a good one left to try, at 9.0 ohms which slowly increases when heated on a light bulb. I hadn't looked into it yet, but it seems like it's the heater circuit that usually fails. I guess the heater circuit is more critical than the signal output? Do you also test the other two wires? (5V power, and ECU input signal)
 
#3 · (Edited)
Very good info! Denso does supply enough of the high-heat anti-seize compound to do many jobs.

I've been trying out a couple used downstream sensors to replace mine. Now I know I have a good one left to try, at 9.0 ohms which slowly increases when heated on a light bulb. I hadn't looked into it yet, but it seems like it's the heater circuit that usually fails. I guess the heater circuit is more critical than the signal output? Do you also test the other two wires? (5V power, and ECU input signal)
The heater circuit is almost always the failure point with these sensors. There is a test for the signal side but I don't do it normally. I only test the heater since it's the most common failure point.

If I get a signal side failure, I'll test that part of the circuit which is also a resistance test.

And I agree about the Denso antiseize. I've done so many sensors that I just throw the extras away at this point. You barely need 1/8th of the supplied package.
 
#4 ·
Did mine today, didn't go so well.

I failed to inspect the hole to see how it was. Well it was stripped and it ended up stripping the threads on the new sensor. Got the hole tapped out fine. I ended up using a hacksaw to clean up the threads on the sensor. Which worked thankfully. 20 min job turned into a 2 hour job.

On a plus side, i also replaced the downstream o2 sensor, that when well, done in 10 min.
 
#8 ·
Missing upstream sensor

Hi,
I would also like to replace the oxygen sensor on my 2003 corolla. Unfortunately I can only find the downstream oxygen sensor under the car on the exhaust pipe. There is no oxygen sensor underneath the heat sheild next to the fire wall. I removed the heat sheild to make sure I was not missing it. Did early versions have only one sensor? Toyota were able to give me a partnumber for the oxygen sensor 8946539815 but agreed that there appeared to be only one sensor on my vehicle.

Does anyone know the equivalent Denso part number for OEM 8946539815?

Thanks :nerd:
 
#9 ·
Hi,
I would also like to replace the oxygen sensor on my 2003 corolla. Unfortunately I can only find the downstream oxygen sensor under the car on the exhaust pipe. There is no oxygen sensor underneath the heat sheild next to the fire wall. I removed the heat sheild to make sure I was not missing it. Did early versions have only one sensor? Toyota were able to give me a partnumber for the oxygen sensor 8946539815 but agreed that there appeared to be only one sensor on my vehicle.

Does anyone know the equivalent Denso part number for OEM 8946539815?

Thanks :nerd:
Australia didn't get OBD2 until like 2006, so it's possible you don't have the sensor.

Why did you "want" to replace the sensor anyway?
 
#10 ·
That makes sense,

I want to replace the oxygen sensor to contribute towards improving the cold idle. I can currently smell petrol fumes until it warms up. I would also like to improve fuel efficiency around the city which is currently at 10 litres/100km. Once it is warmed up and on the highway exhast emissions improve and fuel efficiency is 8 litres per 100km. I suspect the heating circuit could have gone on the oxygen sensor. The car has driven 220,000km so it is probably due for replacement anyway. No check engine lights
I have already replaced the: air filter, spark plugs (Denso), inlet manifold gasket and cleaned the idle air control valve so oxygen sensor is next.

Is the sensor in the exhaust likely to be the equivalent of an upstream or downstream sensor?
 
#18 ·
Hello! I have a 2007 1ZZFE Corolla and I buyed DENSO (234-9052) upstream sensor from ebay... the connector doesn't fit , like it is too tight ... what do you recommend? is there something I can try before requesting a return?
Return it and buy from a legitimate parts retailer like Rockauto.
 
  • Like
Reactions: jacm
#19 · (Edited)
EDIT: The local auto parts store has a socket set that includes a deep offset socket similar to the one pictured in this DIY. I'm hoping it will clear the heat shield and I didn't damage/round off the sensor already. I'm going to give that a try and report back.

I have an offset oxygen sensor socket/puller that is not deep enough to clear the heat shield. I tried using the deep socket style that has the side cutout for the wire, but it expanded when turned and didn't help. There doesn't appear to be enough room to put a hose clamp on the base where the deep socket style fits on the oxygen sensor to keep it tight.

I have sprayed penetrant (PB Blaster) on it multiple times over the past 2 weeks. I am tempted to try using a torch around the exhaust area near the sensor, remove the heat shield, or use a hacksaw to cut off the exposed portion of the oxygen sensor to be able to use a normal deep socket on it.

Any recommendations? Thank you in advance!
 
#21 ·
I rented the deep offset socket as part of a kit from the local auto parts store. Even with the 1/2" breaker bar and tapping didn't make it budge. I could feel the socket starting to round when pushed hard.

Picked up some acetone and mixed it with ATF 50/50. Soaked the area using an acid brush with the mix. Still didn't budge even hours later.

Tried using a propane torch, but doesn't stay lit upside down. Finally I used a butane pencil torch instead and heated up the area around the oxygen sensor through the slots in the heat shield. After a couple more taps on the breaker bar it came loose.

At 177k miles I figured it was due.
 
#22 ·
Thank you very much @hardtopte72 for the detailed DIY. Does anyone know the appropriate heater resistance values I should be seeing on my 07 Matrix for the downstream sensor?

-I am reading 2.4 ohms on the upstream sensor heater circuit, which is within the range specified here.
-12.7 ohms on the downsteam sensor heater circuit; cannot find specs for the downstream sensor online.
 
#23 ·
Thank you very much @hardtopte72 for the detailed DIY. Does anyone know the appropriate heater resistance values I should be seeing on my 07 Matrix for the downstream sensor?

-I am reading 2.4 ohms on the upstream sensor heater circuit, which is within the range specified here.
-12.7 ohms on the downsteam sensor heater circuit; cannot find specs for the downstream sensor online.
Glad to help.
To answer the second point, the downstream standard is 11 to 16 ohms at 68°F (20°C).