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DIY 2009 1.8 L Serpentine Belt Change

93K views 49 replies 24 participants last post by  PT07  
#1 · (Edited)
After Googling for the procedure and reading several places about the "Idler Pulley" and the 19mm "fake" bolt and finding neither I did this belt replacement.

Thought a good DIY might save others from the wasted time and effort I spent, so here goes.......

Remove engine top cover, it simply pulls off and reattaches to four friction posts.

Loosen the 14mm bolt at the bottom of the Alternator as well as the 12mm bolt at the tension adjustment (the long screw looking assembly at the top of the alternator). Both these bolts have heads that FACE the passenger footwell.

Loosen the long 12mm tension adjustment at the top of the alternator. This bolt head FACES the FRONT of the car.

After this bolt "walks" the alternator towards the engine (back of car) sufficiently you can remove the serpentine belt. The belt goes in front of the AC Compressor (bottom front pulley), behind the water pump pulley (center front pulley) and in front of the Alternator pulley (top front pulley). Then of couse it goes all the way around the crankshaft pulley.

You'll probably need to tighten it more than you think. I thought mine was quite tight even though it wasn't back to the "shiny" threads indicating the factory tension and I had the tiniest of squeals when starting the car. Went back and tightened it to the original spot and all is well.

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#7 · (Edited)

Thanks. I wasn't aware that this forum didn't host pictures. I use Photobucket already, just didn't expect to need it here.

Anyway the pictures are in "My User Gallery" if anyone needs them. EDIT: ATTACHED to original post.

It's just a little frustrating to take my personal time and try to help others then feel like I'm being talked down to.

As they say "No good deed goes unpunished"
 
#18 ·
way to resolve it up haha. Question for the OP, why did you replace the serpentine belt? was it worn? i was curious because i feel like my belt is slipping. I get a slight squeel from something sometimes when im driving, there is not a certain time it happens more then not but it just happens. Its not extremely loud or anything but you can here it. just curious if you were having a similar thing happen.

thanks a ton for the helpful diy!
 
#22 ·
way to resolve it up haha. Question for the OP, why did you replace the serpentine belt? was it worn? i was curious because i feel like my belt is slipping. I get a slight squeel from something sometimes when im driving, there is not a certain time it happens more then not but it just happens. Its not extremely loud or anything but you can here it. just curious if you were having a similar thing happen.

thanks a ton for the helpful diy!
Mine was squealing pretty good at startup and worse when really cold. Last time it was at the dealer they came up with their "laundry list" of stuff they wanted to do and this belt was listed.

Also I have 56K on my car so the belt wasn't going to last much longer. Got it at Autozone for $20 and change.....
 
#19 · (Edited)
smartass and condescending remarks seem to be quite common here. you get used to it.
 
#20 ·
smartass and condescending remarks seem to be the norm here.
I hope that they are the exception & not the norm. :facepalm: I always find it fun to help others & see what others are doing. It can be hard to express an emotion though with only words & that is where things go astray I think. :)
 
#24 ·
my car squeals like crazy -.- only 36k on it and squeals like crazy while parked or while stopped at a light, i've taken my car to dealer and they've replaced the belt and sent me on my way telling me everything is fine. but its still there :facepalm:, do you think i can fix this my self with some simple tightening? this problem is driving me crazy :headbang:
 
#30 ·
So there's some belt problems/noises already, how about clutch pedal squeeking? Any 5speeders have a squeek pedal yet? I'm approaching 50K and have it here and there. Might have to take the lithium grease can out. I've been quite fortunate with my belt so far though.

Sent from my DROIDX using AutoGuide.com App
 
#31 ·
So there's some belt problems/noises already, how about clutch pedal squeeking? Any 5speeders have a squeek pedal yet? I'm approaching 50K and have it here and there. Might have to take the lithium grease can out. I've been quite fortunate with my belt so far though.
All is quiet with mine at 38k miles.
 
#33 ·
2009Corolla S-

I had the same issue too. Mine hit just after warranty expired though [at 95k now] :dunno:

The lithium grease worked for a bit, but a few weeks later it still squeaked.

I may just change the bushings when I do the short shifter. It will help give me a "reason" to buy it haha :thumbsup:
 
#38 · (Edited)
Proper way to measure correct tension

Just replaced my drive belt on my 2009 Pontiac Vibe base with a 1.8 liter. I looked at the Vibe site with no luck. I have a 2011 Sienna and this forum is very helpful. So guys I marked my old one before I pulled it off now I am curious how do I tell what the proper tension should be? I mean if this was a 2.4 liter I would have the spring loaded tensioner. Just curious about how much deflection?

Thanks in advance.

Charles
 
#39 ·
Thanks Tah, for starting this thread. Just took 09 Corolla XLE to dealer for checkup and oil and filter change and to have that NOISE AT COLD STARTUP diagnosed, but Dealer could not hear the noise I hear every morning and when it cools.

So since getting two free tickets too Knotts Berry Farm and pay $72, for Oil and Filter change, and Warranty Fix of TRUNK lifts so trunk stays up. And a Smart Stop Technology update and spiral cable replacement under warranty I have done:

Cabin filter
Air Filter
Front Brake Pads
And next is Serpentine Belt, which I thought I would have to use breaker bar to release tension on a hydraulic pulley, but I guess this is old style, just loosen the tension on the Alternator.

Thanks Again
 
#41 ·
Its been almost a year since I put that serpentine belt on, and now the Alternator is making noise. I know that because Ijust replaced it. It's very possible when I put on the belt and tightened it to the same line I marked as the old one, it may have been too tight.

Old style screw it tight type. I put on Alternator which was making a buzzing/brr noise, but still put out a good charge under test at Autozone.

The pulley had a bit of wobble to it, also. Very slighly. It turned fine, without restriction or noise. But this rebuilt replacement is quiet as could be. Something in alternator was bad, bearing...etc...

How do you adjust the tightness on 09 Corolla without tensioner.????
 
#42 ·
how difficult should this be?

i have a belt a bit bigger than 48 inches around and i can't for the life of me get it on, i removed the 12mm bolts just to push my alternator down enough to just barely get it caught on, but it doesn't want to go on and i'm afraid that if i continue, then it's just going to break something!

Is there another trick?
 
#46 ·
Tensioning the belt is always a problem for everyone. Too much or too little and you know what happens. If the original belt tension is good, i spray paint the altanator LONG bolt with paint before i start anything. Then when i reinstall, i just tighten to the paint mark. Just make sure the replacement belt is also OEM so lengths dont vary. My last belt lasted 360,000km before i sold car and still in great condition. I havec120,000km on 2009 and still going strong. Just check belt for frays or rubber falling off.
Also 0W20 oil is like water, i will not use it, most mechanics will not use it. Use higher number always to maximise protection for engine.
Also only change tranny oil with Toyota oil. I used Canadian Tire oil samecspecs, and tranny slipped. I then read a toyota bullitin that warned about after market oils doing this, so drained and put in oem brand and 100% ok now. Guess what, Toyota oil was cheaper than the other crap i brought!
 
#47 ·
Also only change tranny oil with Toyota oil. I used Canadian Tire oil same specs, and tranny slipped. I then read a Toyota bulletin that warned about after market oils doing this, so drained and put in oem brand and 100% ok now. Guess what, Toyota oil was cheaper than the other crap I bought!
What do you mean by "Canadian Tire oil"? Which one of these did you get? :surprise:

http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/search-results.html?q=atf;x1=brand;q1=MotoMaster

You oughta know you were supposed to get Mobil ATF 3309, also available at Canadian Tire.

http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/mobil-atf-3309-0289416p.html

Another hot topic. I like Valvoline Maxlife the most for both T-IV and WS applications.

Toyota/Lexus Type T-IV: This fluid is made by Mobil and is called several names. It is sold as Mobil JWS3309, Audi/Volkswagon G-055-025-A2, Ford WSS-M2C924-A, GM GM9986195, Saab 3309. This is a synthetic blend fluid and should be replaced every 30K miles by drain and fill.

Product data sheet: http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENPVLMOMobil_ATF_3309.aspx

Valvoline MaxLife Dex/Merc: Fully synthetic, highly recommended and highly rated. This ATF is recommended even in WS transmissions and is my go to fluid for any Toyota transmission service.

http://www.valvoline.com/pdf/maxlife_atf.pdf
http://www.walmart.ca/en/ip/maxlife-high-mileage-dexmerc-atf-multi-vehicle/6000078877210