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DIY: Auto-Up Driver's Power Window

11K views 5 replies 5 participants last post by  Kiwi-Corolla  
#1 ·
Intro:
I got a little bored last night, so naturally I decided to take apart one of my spare Corolla master window switches. All was going well, and then something occurred to me: the mechanism for the auto window function is also set up to push in the opposite direction. Our system uses a little motor to hold the contacts inside the switch closed for a set amount of time, you can see it here:

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Essentially, a few modifications to the switch and $1 spent on a diode will enable the auto-up function.



How to do it:
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You will need:
1 diode from Radio Shack or similar
A soldering iron and some solder
Sand paper, a file, or some clippers
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First, any astute observer will notice that the driver's side window switch doesn't actually go up as high as the rest of the switches when raising the window, but it does go as far down as the other ones when going auto-down. This is because of two tabs of the back of the switch that prevent full movement.

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To solve this problem they must be removed. I chose to sand mine off.

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Removing the tabs allows full movement of the switch, which will now click into a new position for auto-up. Auto-up, however, still won't work at this point, so it's time to pop off the rear cover and look at the tiny control board on the back of the switch. Close observation reveals that there is an unpopulated spot on the circuit board for a diode hiding behind all of the components.

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This is unfortunately a very hard spot to solder something onto properly, so I decided to solder the diode onto the back of the board. Be sure to mount the diode so power will flow in the correct direction. A comparison of my modified board with a stock one:

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Voila! Put everything back together and enjoy your auto-up enabled window.


Be warned that you do this at your own risk, the window has no jam protection so it will pinch anything hanging out of it when it goes up.
 
#4 ·
Thanks. The diode I used was actually one I desoldered from an old cruise control computer, but something along the lines of a 1N4003 would work well. There is a spot for it on the PCB marked for it, I tried to get a a good picture of it in the DIY, but it's really tucked away, hence soldering the diode on the back.