So your vehicle wont turn over and was working fine before...
Lets try to get it working.
First thing first, your going to need a digital Multimeter with continuity a Test light, and a Feeler Gauge set
Start by checking the easy stuff fuses and relays. Fuses are easy.. Visually inspect them. The relay you will need a multimeter to check it. You should have continuity on one side and no continuity on the other side. If that checks out, move onto next step. If not, replace the starter relay and try to start the car.
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When the ignition switch is turned to START position, current flows from terminal 50 to the coil of the solenoid and the plunger is pulled by the magnetic force of the coil. When the plunger is pulled to the left, the contact plate of the plunger allows current from the battery to flow directly from terminal 30 to the motor, and the starter rotates. When the engine is running and the ignition switch is returned to ON, the magnetic force of the coil disappears and the contact plate of the plunger is returned to its original position by the return spring. Battery voltage no longer flows from terminal 30, so the motor stops
We will start by confirming we are getting a start signal. Disconnect the Large black harness plug on the drivers side wheel well (Yellow arrow). Pull the plug apart and probe the Black/White wire with the test light and ground it to a good ground on the body. Have a helper turn the key to the start position and confirm your Test Light lights up.
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If you have voltage, move onto the next step. If not, repair the harness or replace the ignition switch and try to start it up
Next, we will go ahead and check the Neutral Safety Switch to make sure its working properly. Using the table below probe each pin listed making sure the gear selector is in the position you are testing.
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If that checks out, move onto next step. If not, clean or replace the Neutral Safety Switch with a known good NSS and try to start the car.
Next, we will check the wiring between the ECU and the Neutral Safety Switch.
The park/neutral position switch detects the shift lever position and sends signals to the ECM. The ECM receives signals (NSW, 2 and L) from the park/neutral position switch. When the signal is not sent to the ECM from the park/neutral position switch, the ECM judges that the shift lever is in the D position.
So check NSW 2 and the body and NSW L and the body. If they do not have continuity there is a break in one of those wires. Trace it and replace it. Try to start the car.
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all of these tests above are for the actual CRANKING aspect of the starting system. If your car cranks over, but just wont throw a spark lets move onto the ignition system.
<strong>
If your car still wont crank, try replacing the starter. I will have another write up on checking the starter and rebuilding one but not in this DIY</strong>
The ignition system is fairly simple as far as its setup..
First, check all the fuses make sure the harness connectors are tight before moving onto next step.
![Image]()
Check the spark plugs first.. PLEASE. I've seen this many times when it ends up being fouled or bad spark plugs causing a starting problem.
First, if you the plugs are good and still dont have a spark:
CHECK RESISTANCE OF HIGH–TENSION CORD (Spark Plug Wires)
Maximum resistance: 25 kohm per cord
If thats bad, replace wires .. if good move onto next step
CHECK POWER SUPPLY TO IGNITION COIL AND IGNITER
1. Turn ignition switch to ON.
2. Check that there is battery voltage at
ignition coil positive (+) terminal.
If thats bad Check wiring between ignition switch to ignition coil and igniter. If good move onto next step
CHECK RESISTANCE OF IGNITION COIL
Resistance: Cold-------------------Hot
Primary 0.36–0.55 ------------0.45–0.65ohm
Secondary 9.0–15.4 kohm ---- 11.4–18.1 kohm
If thats bad, replace the ignition coil. if good move to next step
CHECK RESISTANCE OF SIGNAL GENERATOR (PICKUP COIL)
Resistance: Cold Hot G1 and G–125–200ohm 160–235ohm
G 2 and G–125–200ohm 160–235ohm
N E and G–155–250ohm 190–290ohm
Also check the air gap on the distributor:
Air gap: 0.2–0.5 mm (0.008–0.020 in.)
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If that checks out, move onto next step.. If bad replace Distributor Housing Assembly
For Reference:
![Image]()
Check the IGT Signal from the ECM
![Image]()
If Every Single thing checks out Try another Igniter.
I will post up more pictures and more information as it comes :thumbsup:
ALSO:
If your vehicle is equipped with an aftermarket remote starter with an Ignition Kill, Disconnect the remote starter first and try to start the car before tearing into anything
Lets try to get it working.
First thing first, your going to need a digital Multimeter with continuity a Test light, and a Feeler Gauge set
Start by checking the easy stuff fuses and relays. Fuses are easy.. Visually inspect them. The relay you will need a multimeter to check it. You should have continuity on one side and no continuity on the other side. If that checks out, move onto next step. If not, replace the starter relay and try to start the car.
When the ignition switch is turned to START position, current flows from terminal 50 to the coil of the solenoid and the plunger is pulled by the magnetic force of the coil. When the plunger is pulled to the left, the contact plate of the plunger allows current from the battery to flow directly from terminal 30 to the motor, and the starter rotates. When the engine is running and the ignition switch is returned to ON, the magnetic force of the coil disappears and the contact plate of the plunger is returned to its original position by the return spring. Battery voltage no longer flows from terminal 30, so the motor stops
We will start by confirming we are getting a start signal. Disconnect the Large black harness plug on the drivers side wheel well (Yellow arrow). Pull the plug apart and probe the Black/White wire with the test light and ground it to a good ground on the body. Have a helper turn the key to the start position and confirm your Test Light lights up.
If you have voltage, move onto the next step. If not, repair the harness or replace the ignition switch and try to start it up
Next, we will go ahead and check the Neutral Safety Switch to make sure its working properly. Using the table below probe each pin listed making sure the gear selector is in the position you are testing.
If that checks out, move onto next step. If not, clean or replace the Neutral Safety Switch with a known good NSS and try to start the car.
Next, we will check the wiring between the ECU and the Neutral Safety Switch.
The park/neutral position switch detects the shift lever position and sends signals to the ECM. The ECM receives signals (NSW, 2 and L) from the park/neutral position switch. When the signal is not sent to the ECM from the park/neutral position switch, the ECM judges that the shift lever is in the D position.
So check NSW 2 and the body and NSW L and the body. If they do not have continuity there is a break in one of those wires. Trace it and replace it. Try to start the car.
all of these tests above are for the actual CRANKING aspect of the starting system. If your car cranks over, but just wont throw a spark lets move onto the ignition system.
<strong>
If your car still wont crank, try replacing the starter. I will have another write up on checking the starter and rebuilding one but not in this DIY</strong>
The ignition system is fairly simple as far as its setup..
First, check all the fuses make sure the harness connectors are tight before moving onto next step.
Check the spark plugs first.. PLEASE. I've seen this many times when it ends up being fouled or bad spark plugs causing a starting problem.
First, if you the plugs are good and still dont have a spark:
CHECK RESISTANCE OF HIGH–TENSION CORD (Spark Plug Wires)
Maximum resistance: 25 kohm per cord
If thats bad, replace wires .. if good move onto next step
CHECK POWER SUPPLY TO IGNITION COIL AND IGNITER
1. Turn ignition switch to ON.
2. Check that there is battery voltage at
ignition coil positive (+) terminal.
If thats bad Check wiring between ignition switch to ignition coil and igniter. If good move onto next step
CHECK RESISTANCE OF IGNITION COIL
Resistance: Cold-------------------Hot
Primary 0.36–0.55 ------------0.45–0.65ohm
Secondary 9.0–15.4 kohm ---- 11.4–18.1 kohm
If thats bad, replace the ignition coil. if good move to next step
CHECK RESISTANCE OF SIGNAL GENERATOR (PICKUP COIL)
Resistance: Cold Hot G1 and G–125–200ohm 160–235ohm
G 2 and G–125–200ohm 160–235ohm
N E and G–155–250ohm 190–290ohm
Also check the air gap on the distributor:
Air gap: 0.2–0.5 mm (0.008–0.020 in.)
If that checks out, move onto next step.. If bad replace Distributor Housing Assembly
For Reference:
Check the IGT Signal from the ECM
If Every Single thing checks out Try another Igniter.
I will post up more pictures and more information as it comes :thumbsup:
ALSO:
If your vehicle is equipped with an aftermarket remote starter with an Ignition Kill, Disconnect the remote starter first and try to start the car before tearing into anything
