Toyota Forum banner

DIY Improving Gen 3/3.5 vibration problem at idle

83K views 212 replies 64 participants last post by  Japan Buick  
#1 · (Edited)
After some investigation and a little luck, I discovered that the Dog Bone and the Mount Bracket for a Gen 4/4.5 four cyl. A/T will retrofit to the Gen 3/3.5 four cyl. A/T. The Gen 4/4.5 has a much larger rubber bushing on the end that bolts to the engine and that is why you have to purchase the mount bracket to do the retofit.
Doing this greatly reduces the amount of vibration that is felt through the wheel when stopped in D @ idle. A couple other TN members have done this retrofit with the same results and I wanted to share this with the rest of the Nation. The dogbone and mount for the MANUAL trans is the same for Gen 3/3.5/4./4.5 but was changed for the Gen4/4.5 AUTO which indicates that Toyota used this new style Dog Bone to help with the vibration @ idle problem. :clap:

If you don't want to hit the pick & pull to find the bracket & dog bone here are the factory part #'s & price. I purchased them wholesale on line from www.toyotapartsales.com


Although this retrofit was to help auto trans owners and Toyota used a different pt# for gen 3-4.5 manual,a TN member used this retrofit on a 5sd trans car with an improvment also.

12363-74130 $31.77 rod/engine (dog bone)
12313-74060 $31.10 mounting bracket

This was the best Mod/ Upgrade that I have done!
Bear95
 
#3 ·
Yes, the vibration @ idle was the only complaint that I had with my auto. My neighbor has a Gen4 and it only vibrated a little compared to my car. I open the hood to check out the bay and damn...there it was...the giant rubber bushing! Also, the mount bracket has a counter weight hanging from the underside to dampen vibration.
Bear95
 
#8 · (Edited)
Sure, the lower part of the mount that bolts to the front of the 2.2L is the same for all the engines, A/T or Manual trans. It is only the bracket that mounts on top of it (two bolts) and Dog Bone that was changed for the auto.
The purpose of this retrofit is to reduce the vibration @ idle in drive when stopped. The reason that I addressed the A/T is because with a manual you are in N or have the clutch depressed at a stop light and the stress is off the drive train and you should not feel any vibration through the steering wheel. I have not heard of this vibration problem with a manual but I could be wrong. I would like to know what effect this retrofit would have on a manual trans, so try it!

I was luck enough to have a neighbor with a Gen 4 who let me try her dog bone and mount for fitment on my Gen3 and that is how I discovered that the parts would interchange between the two without any mods including the use of the mounting bolts. :clap:I purchased a Gen 4 parts list and that is when I really had the "eureka" moment and correct part numbers.
Bear95
 
#9 · (Edited)
Dang, replaced the dogbone on mine a month or two ago with a regular gen 3 one. Wish I would've known this then. =

(
Sorry, I have been sitting on this for a month until I heard from a couple other owner who did the retrofit and their outcome. They were also surpired & happy at the difference it made.
I see by you sig that you have a 6cyl. This only pertains to the 2.2L 4cyl.
Bear95
 
#11 ·
Well, very good point! I have seen posts where owners of manuals have pressed in poly bushing to help with engine movement for spirited driving. It does sound like you have mount problems but by not having a manual I really cannot comment about normal movement with gear changes.
Bear95
 
#14 ·
I'm interested in this mod! Dumb question but any chance to have a pic of this mod. to give some perspective of the work involved?

Oh, sounds like this might one of those mods worth considering to be on the sticky list.
There are no dumb questions, but this is too simple for pic. All you do is remove the two bolts that run through each end of the Dog Bone and then the two bolts that hold the bracket on. You reuse the bolts that you have. Easy as changing a tire or spark plug! Total time involved to change: 5 minutes or less.:clap:
Bear95
 
#15 ·
So Bear95, this mod is only good for the 2.2L 4cyl's? That sucksss because I have the SAME vibration problem with my 92, but it's the auto V6, and I like to just put it in nuetral too, but then I face A) the ****'s who pull up about 3/4 of an inch away from your bumper, so if i roll, by the time i hit the brake, I now have a screaming **** at my window, or B) with my tranny, for some reason, when I shift into N, my car kinda jerks violently, and I'm actually gonna post a thread to see if I can get some help on it so as not to get off topic, but between those issues, shifting into N isn't the best solution to the vibration, but if i could replace those parts on the V6, I deff. would...
 
#18 ·
^ werd...

sounds like one of the other engine mounts may be going if the dogbone itself isn't pretty much destroyed by now (this happens quite often on the stock v6's after time due to the torque)


and stickied :thumbup:
 
#21 ·
So glad I found this thread, I am just now looking to replace my dog bone on my 92 Camry 2.2 because it is rotted away. This is awesome thank you and will post how it works out.

Gotta love this website!!! Thank you!!!!!

Billy
Be sure and get the mounting bracket too.:thumbup: I am still shocked at what a difference this retrofit made.
Bear95
 
#24 · (Edited)
I got mine on order as well. Definitely will post review after the update.

------------------------
Update May 06, '08.

Got the parts in yesterday; and as mentioned by Bear95, it took only a few minutes to change out. It took me a bit longer since I had one heck of a time getting one of the bolt loose, but other than that it was EASY. NOTE one minor detail, you'll have to swap two bolts around, the longer one (10mm longer) which was originally mounted to the frame should be swap to the new dogbone to bracket end which is thicker. I have the pics of the two dogbones and there is a big difference between the two and will post it later.

Results...CONFIRMED!!! Albeit, my original dogbone was already shot thus my steering wheel had quite a bit of vibration to where it was annoying. After the swap, it has subsided. AWESOME update and definitely recommended for those with GEN3 I4!

Image
 
#31 ·
I got mine on order as well. Definitely will post review after the update.

------------------------
Update May 06, '08.

Got the parts in yesterday; and as mentioned by Bear95, it took only a few minutes to change out. It took me a bit longer since I had one heck of a time getting one of the bolt loose, but other than that it was EASY. NOTE one minor detail, you'll have to swap two bolts around, the longer one (10mm longer) which was originally mounted to the frame should be swap to the new dogbone to bracket end which is thicker. I have the pics of the two dogbones and it a big difference between the two and will post it later.

Results...CONFIRMED!!! Albeit, my original dogbone was already shot thus my steering wheel had quite a bit of vibration to where it was annoying. After the swap, it has subsided. AWESOME update and definitely recommended for those with GEN3 I4!
NICE TO HEAR :clap:!!!!!!!!!!!
Bear95
 
#28 ·
LOL

all of them charge the same for the dogbone cuz it's OE...77.20 for dogbone

they dont EVEN have the bracket....

so i went to the dealers....sure they have it....and it comes to 166 :lol:
but I'll have to wait a week for the bracket...they have the dogbone though

so yea..whatever, i'm paying 40 bucks for shipping but i'm saving 60 bucks
 
#29 ·
Is this sound a rattling clangy metallic tinny sound? If so, I have that at idle.
 
#40 ·
I am glad that you posted pics because your install is a bit off. You need to turn the bone over so the welded rod is on the engine side instead of facing the fender. The pics shows that it is sitting cock-eyed, and when it is turned the other way it will be sitting in line with the mount. I did the same thing @ first, but then I switched it when I realized it was not sitting straight.
Bear95
 
#48 ·
Wow, this sounds so simple. That vibration is the only real thing wrong with the car right now...it was fine for awhile, then it just started getting progressively worse then sitting in D at stoplights or stop signs. Right now it's at the point where switching to N hardly does anything...but I do think I'll try this.

Some questions though...this whole process seems simple enough...but are you guys leaving out any steps because you just assume we know them? I've never worked under the hood of a car before, but it looks like you just...unbolt old "dog bone", bolt on new one, presto? I was thinking to replace motor mounts you had to elevate the whole engine and what not?

Thanks.

By the way I have a 94 4cyl Camry.
 
#49 ·
Wow, this sounds so simple. That vibration is the only real thing wrong with the car right now...it was fine for awhile, then it just started getting progressively worse then sitting in D at stoplights or stop signs. Right now it's at the point where switching to N hardly does anything...but I do think I'll try this.

Some questions though...this whole process seems simple enough...but are you guys leaving out any steps because you just assume we know them? I've never worked under the hood of a car before, but it looks like you just...unbolt old "dog bone", bolt on new one, presto? I was thinking to replace motor mounts you had to elevate the whole engine and what not?

Thanks.

By the way I have a 94 4cyl Camry.
The weight of the engine and trans is supported by the front, rear and trans mounts. The dog bone controls the front to rear movement of the engine/trans and helps absorbs the torque when you shift between P,D,R or N.

Bear95
 
#50 ·
Thanks for the reply. I'm going to do the retrofit, but I figure I may as well replace any others that are shot as well. Someone up there said that their vibration was more caused by the front center mount...is there any obvious way to tell if that mount is in need of replacement? The top one, I could look at it and tell it was shot. The bottom one looks fine though. Any ideas? Thanks.
 
#51 ·
Yes a bad front mount will also cause vibration, but the retofit of the dogbone is to futher reduce the vibration past what is possiable with the stock dogbone & good mounts.
To check the mounts, first inspect them for leaking fluid,& hard cracked rubber. You can also place a floor jack with a piece of wood under the oil pan and slightly jack up the engine to see if the mount center is loose from the outer part. If you have the mounts that came in the car new, then I am sure they are worn out by now (13-14 years old).
A year ago,I had ordered and replaced all my other mounts with OEM parts from were I got the retrofit dogbone parts.
I know that there are fluid filled ones for sale on Ebay, but I don't know how good they are or how long they will last. I always purchase OEM because I don't want to replace parts over and over. The rear mount is a slight pain, but do a search and there are some good tips about using extensions to loosen the bolts from the top of the engine.
Bear95
 
#52 · (Edited)
I have some problem and confusing here

I bought a gen 4 camry engine mount from junkyard and brought it home. I crossed my finger when i saw that it's really bigger than my OEM, until i figured out that the middle line is also propotionally LONGER...

Image


I think i can put the gen 4 dog bone into the bolt on the middle hole of the bracket. But it turned out that the far end of the bracket might hit the motor ... Wat should i do ? SHould i saw out the far end ( far right ).

Image