Year? Model?

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2012 se v6 with smart key

 

Our 2014.5 SE had a similar problem with its front driver's lock. Mechanical lock/unclock worked fine, but the electronic actuation became increasingly intermittent to the point where it's inoperable most of time. Neither the key fob nor the interior lock/unlock switch could get it to actuate. This occurred just beyond the factory bumper to bumper warranty when the car was barely 2 yrs old. Local dealer was not very helpful, wanting to charge a diagnostic fee if Toyota decides not to cover it. So I gave up and ordered a $140+ replacement and installed it myself.

I recall my wife's 2007 Camry LE also had one, if not, two door lock actuation failure requiring complete replacement of the lock/latch assembly. But the failures occurred at around 5-6 yr old, with over 100K miles. Same fix.

Woof

 

I had six power door lock actuators fail within the first two and a half years. 2014.5 SE.

 

Mine is currently working again so who knows. Was messing with lock switch from drivers door. Back door wasn’t working. Simply flipped it opposite of all the others and tried power lock and magically working now.

 

One more

Now our front passenger side door latch lock actuator just failed. Same symptom... inoperable electronically. This is ridiculous on a 2014 SE with 60,000 miles.

The aftermarket suppliers are making a killing on this flaw. The non-toyota units costs anywhere from $50to over $200 depending on where you buy them and for which door.

Also, it seems the replacement latch assembly for XLE is different from the latch assembly for the other models? Does anybody know the exact part number for just the actuator motor? At the rate it's going, I need to learn to open up the latch assembly and replace only the failed actuator motor.

Woof

 

Now our front passenger side door latch lock actuator just failed. Same symptom... inoperable electronically. This is ridiculous on a 2014 SE with 60,000 miles.

The aftermarket suppliers are making a killing on this flaw. The non-toyota units costs anywhere from $50to over $200 depending on where you buy them and for which door.

Also, it seems the replacement latch assembly for XLE is different from the latch assembly for the other models? Does anybody know the exact part number for just the actuator motor? At the rate it's going, I need to learn to open up the latch assembly and replace only the failed actuator motor.

Woof

Hey in my googling about this I found a self fix (cheap) in a celica forum. Not sure if I am allowed to post links to other forums here but if you google "celica door lock acuator fix" you will find in in some top hits. I may tackle this when I have time. My rear drivers side is still acting up. Been leaving it locked and telling the kids to climb out the other side lately..very frustrating for sure.

 

The front passenger door lock actuator failed for our 2014.5 Camry SE with 60+K miles last Wed. Given the apparent high failure rate of these door lock actuator motors, I ordered a set of electric motors from Amazon ($24 total), thinking it would be more cost effective when the other doors fail.

Turns out the factory unit uses 10mm D-shaft (flat), but what I ordered were 20 mm D-shaft. So I cut the new motor shaft and ground the tiny shaft flat enough to accommodate the factory plastic worm gear. That was a lot of work; so you might want to check the size of your actuator motor size before you attempt this.

Here is a comparison of the two. Lower is the factory motor with short shaft, and the upper is what I ordered from Amazon.

Got it to work fine, but no fun in taking apart the actuator assembly, especially the mismatched motor shaft dimension.

 

Can you take apart the original motor and see if you can swap the rotor? Maybe that would be simpler fix instead of filing the flat. What exactly breaks on these motors?

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or clean the commutator and brushes and reuse everything. those motors probably do not run enough to stay clean, not worn out just carboned up.

 

personally i would rather have the original than the alternatives.

let me explain, 99 ranger blower motor resistor, original lasted 16 years, replace with lifetime warranty oreilly's, replaced again, replaced again, 3 times in 6 months. failure is it only runs on highest speed (direct battery voltage). should have repaired the original.

when i sold the truck i told the buyer to pay the price of a ford replacement ($56) versus the aftermarket, or get wingnuts s you could replace it without tools!!!!!

the quality of toyota is the sum of their standards applied to their vehicle parts. go outside of that system, to a system that considers cost as the only consideration and you bring in unknown quality issues that can not be calculated. you will never own a reliable car full of the cheapest parts you can buy.

 

Maybe... this is the 4th door lock actuator failure we've encountered. Two on our previous 2007 Camry, and two on our current 2014.5 SE. Perhaps it's in comparison to the overall reliability of the two Camrys, that the door lock actuator failure rate seem to stand-out. Even my 1998 Grand Voyager, a daily commuter, with 160k miles have had only 1 door actuator failure.

It's a personal decision if one wants to replace it with new part or attempt to refurbish/recondition factory parts. Considering our current 2014.5 Camry's driver door started acting up intermittently within the first yr, and ultimately failed permanently just beyond the bumper to bumper warranty, I just don't have high confidence with the factory door lock actuators.

Woof

 

The whole thing I don’t get about this situation is my first door to give me problems has been problem free for 4 months without a fix...well. I did slam that door hard a couple times which may have fixed it lol. Haven’t slammed this one hard yet. Guess I should try that.

 

if they are intermittent and you get them working CYCLE THEM 100 TIMES. see how long they last after that. like the old TV volume control rheostat, needs to run more.

 

Haha, I forgot to mention our Camry is the wife's daily driver... so yeah, not happenin'. :nerd:

 

In your wife's situation, set the door locks for all to lock and unlock, in and out of Park.

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Good idea! Probably already configured that way from the factory.

Woof.

 

My trouble one is magically working again...Guess that's better than not working but when will it act up again lol..

 

Resurrecting this thread since my issue has returned. Mainly my Passenger side front is acting up lately. But, yesterday, my passenger side rear also acted up, and later, my drivers door acted up. Wondering now if there could be some electrical issue as it seems to be jumping around randomly lately. Worked perfect this morning when I got to work, all for locked. My original issue was with the passenger front and drivers rear doors, now its jumping around randomly as if there may be an electrical issue. I did have an electrical issue last week(see my post about check engine, loss of power steering etc. where my battery terminals were corroded). Could my 7 year old battery not be powerful enough to lock/unlock my doors even know the car starts right up? When listening to it try to lock, it almost sounds like it doesn't have enough power to the locks... but then boom, works perfect again out of nowhere..

 

When mine were going out, it seemed to be more temperatures related. Extreme heat or cold they didn’t want to work but in the 60-80f range they worked better. May be something to look at instead of thinking it’s an electrical issue.

Edit: probably time to change the battery. My factory one only lasted 3 years.


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I’ve had 8 power door lock actuators replaced on my 2014.5 SE

 

I haven’t been charged anything. I had them done at the dealership, and they’ve all been covered under my extended warranty. They would have been roughly $450 each for parts and labor. Most people scoff at the idea of getting an extended warranty for a Toyota. Not me. Mine has more than paid for itself with the work I’ve needed. Also had a seized front brake caliper a little while back. That was covered. I should mention that I believe the first 3 or 4 went bad while I was still under the factory warranty. The rest have been during the extended warranty period.