pics? I'm not sure I understand where u mean

 

here you go. not the prettiest thing, but at least you don't have to stare at your door jamb all day.

 

Ahh ok, thanks man

 

Curious as to where, specifically, you were hearing the sound come from?

I get the same thing from both doors on my Venza and have had Toyota draw the strike plate inward in both sides, effectively tightening the fit of the doors against the frames, it worked on the passenger side but not on the drivers side. (whose rattle came later).

Mine sounds like the window rattling right where it rolls up into the channel but both the dealer and myself have put felt between the rubber and the window frame and that doesn't stop it. It only happens in a particular range of temperatures which is extremely frustrating as this has been going on for 6 months now but I'm willing to try anything.

 

the sound was coming from the upper right corner of the door with the door panels on. but with the panels off, the sound was actually coming from the interaction of the plastic lock actuator and the metal frame which is closer to the middle edge of the door.

kind of hard to explain, but with the panel and vapor barrier off you can get access to the lock actuator. while driving, I squeezed the lock actuator to the bare inner door frame and the noise stopped. I was also able to push the lock actuator away from the inner door frame and the sound stopped but not as well. did some exploring and found that the lock actuator is connected to the rubber door stop. squeezing pulls the rubber door stop closer to the door frame. that's when I brainstormed ideas that focused on the rubber stoppers.

 

I had to read thru a couple times but I think I get the gist of what you're saying. I just can't picture what the connection must look like inside the door. I know the actuators you speak of as I've replaced those little yellow plastic elbows before on my Camry and a door handle on my Prizm.

I fear my issue may be with the door frame rubber and/or window all up at the top of the door but I know these sounds travel and fool the ear. That plus the fact that I'm game for anything......heck, I'll try some bumper action.

 

I couldn't find a schematic of our door but here is a pic from a ford f150 (same principle). door panel is obviously off, vapor barrier in pink, sheet metal or what I referenced as the inner door frame is underneath that, and then the lock actuator housing just behind it indicated with the red box. the actuator housing also sits behind the rubber door stop indicated with the green arrow.

by placing my thumb on the inner door frame (where the vapor barrier would normally sit), the rest of my fingers on the other side of the actuator housing and giving a good squeeze, the noise stopped and also pulled the rubber door stop away from you if you are facing the rubber stop directly.


I also looked at the rubber trim you mentioned. it sits along the window sill and there are 4 metal clips that actually touch bare metal. I straddled some duct tape along the edge underneath the rubber trim to ensure everything was snug and eliminated the metal to metal contact, but the noise was still there. this may be the cause of some rattles but wasn't the source of mine. I would still do the duct tape as a preventive measure if you already have the door panel off.

 

I'll probably still try putting something there. (venza mid door stop/ gum drop is a little lower) but my primary door noise is from the top of the window. Up at the top of the window frame.

But, like mine, I noticed you said only when your window was rolled up. I can literally stop the noise with just a micro-tap of the window switch, just releasing tension on the window & door. Here's mine when it's acting up.....

 

I'll probably still try putting something there. (venza mid door stop/ gum drop is a little lower) but my primary door noise is from the top of the window. Up at the top of the window frame.

But, like mine, I noticed you said only when your window was rolled up. I can literally stop the noise with just a micro-tap of the window switch, just releasing tension on the window & door. Here's mine when it's acting up.....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0eqSdCbgvG0&feature=youtube_gdata_player

that sounds exactly like mine did. with all the panels on, the sound was coming from the top rear corner near the window sill. I could gently put some pressure in that area with a finger and it disappeared. the door panel itself is in separate pieces and then plastic welded together. plus all the faux leatherette at the top creates a lot of rubbing/ticking points.

I know with the window even partially down, it distorts the door frame enough so that the rattle disappears. I can only assume that my fix accomplishes a similar effect even if it doesn't address the rattle directly.

oh and another point of interest in case I didn't make it obvious, the rattle persisted even with the door panel off.

 

I've been noticing the same noise as well. For me I've noticed it more on the driver side than passenger side. Window sounds like it rattles even though its closed or it can be open slightly and still makes the noise. It sounds like the noise is coming from the actuator that holds the glass in place and towards the top left corner if you are looking from the inside of the door.