Also not to hijack my own threadb:lol:... but do you REALLY :facepalm: use Fram Oil Filters? If so - go play the lottery!:clap: They are known for collasping and causing the engine to go south due to lack of oil flow... just saying... Wix makes a great filter (They make Napa's Gold line of filters)

To hijack this further, OEM filter for the win. I have UOA to back that up :rofl: .....but I won't go there. Mods, please don't ban me..... at least not yet..... :clap:

To keep this OT, I would prefer the transmission stay at a slightly LOWER gear instead of lugging the engine for the variety of reasons listed above. Not only that, I would hate for the tranny to be hunting back and forth for gears.

Cheers.

 

Mods, please don't ban me..... at least not yet..... :clap:

Since you said "please" I guess you can stay

 

What year is your HL? I am glad it doesn't Fish for gears! I hate that! Signal of a poor design...


Also not to hijack my own threadb:lol:... but do you REALLY :facepalm: use Fram Oil Filters? If so - go play the lottery!:clap: They are known for collasping and causing the engine to go south due to lack of oil flow... just saying... Wix makes a great filter (They make Napa's Gold line of filters)

No thanks. The only filter that ever failed me in 30 years was a Napa Gold. Oil light and a P1349 shortly after installation on fresh oil change last year. Swapped the filter, problem resolved. Doesn't mean they are all bad, but when something happens I move on.

As far as Fram, don't fall for the purolator commercials hawking their products, and the misinformed OCOD trolls in forums. Never had a problem in 30 years of using them off and on. Show me any any real proof of collapse. Its all rumors and assumptions based on paper end caps and misinformation.

A little research and you'd know that the Fram Ultra is a completely different filter than the cheap Frams. Metal end caps, synthetic media, 99% efficiency, 15k mile extended interval rating. Purolator recently made a synthetic filter to compete with the Ultra, M1, K&N, etc.

Don't take it from me, look with your own eyes. Note the rubber seal on the metal end cap. Makes a tight seal for the bypass and ADBV.

 

A little research and you'd know that the Fram Ultra is a completely different filter than the cheap Frams. Metal end caps, synthetic media, 99% efficiency, 15k mile extended interval rating. Purolator recently made a synthetic filter to compete with the Ultra, M1, K&N, etc.

Don't take it from me, look with your own eyes. Note the rubber seal on the metal end cap. Makes a tight seal for the bypass and ADBV.

Pictures! I love pictures. Speaks a thousand words.

How does the FRAM bypass pressure compare with OEM? For the HL, at least for MY12, it's a reusable canister with only the filtering media tha is replaced instead of the whole filter assembly.

 

Do people still REALLY :facepalm: use Fram Oil Filters? If so - go play the lottery!:clap: They are known for collasping and causing the engine to go south due to lack of oil flow... just saying... Wix makes a great filter (They make Napa's Gold line of filters)

I created this thread only because I hijacked my own thread and don't want the oil filter discussion to take over from the original post.. Hopefully the Mods will move posts to this one!

When I used to change my own oil... I always used WIX brand filters, Will never buy another Fram due to one collasping on my buddies 02 Vette and taking the engine with it!

 

I used fram filters a few times with no ill effects on my Corolla mainly because they were given away free with a jug of motor oil.

I exclusively use Wix filters now as well. Great filters indeed.

 

I use Purolator PureONE oil filters.
Why not use something that's equal or better than Toyota's OEM filter (which is damn near awesome)

 

Jason - The new cartridge filters are a totally different animal from the spin-on can above. The difference is now your replacing the filter media, not the whole can like before if that makes sense. The filter housing on the car is now responsible for bypass, so it doesn't matter anymore. The things we worried about before don't matter as much with cartridges. Just fit and efficiency, thats it.

 

Sweeney will be moving the Fram filter posts to my topic in GD I created.. I do not want to take away from my Post about the shifting as future reference to others.... I KNOW I Hijacked my own thread..

 

Ok, I moved it to the gen discussion. I don't have powers in the gen discussion area so I couldn't merge with the pre-existing one. I'll have to get another mod to merge it together.

Considering toyota OEM filters are only 1-2 dollars more than the FRAM....why downgrade?

 

Considering toyota OEM filters are only 1-2 dollars more than the FRAM....why downgrade?

Would like to define this statement a little better.

Not all Fram filters are the same. Some are standard interval, some are extended interval. Some have paper media and paper end caps. Some have metal end caps and synthetic media.

Not all OEM filters are the same. All are standard inteval, none are extended interval. Some have metal end caps, some have no end caps at all. Some have paper media, some have foam media. None are synthetic media.

So, downgrading may or may not be true depending on which Fram and which OEM are compared.

 

*threads merged*

 

Comparing the basic FRAM (Extra Guard CH9972 ) to the basic Toyota drop in cartridge filter for the 2GR-FE. I Just looked up the price of the FRAM and it matched what I paid for the toyota one. And most everything I read, the OEM one is superior to almost all the basic filters. So why get aftermarket when the OEM is the same price and "supposedly" better.

 

sweeneyp - Ok. I'm not biased toward any filter, like to try them all and learn about them. If you have OE stats would like to see and compare. Toyota doesn't disclose them. Can you fill it in below?

Comparing cartridge (your car):

Toyota XXXXXX

Extra Guard CH9972 Cartridge

• Efficiency 96% @ 20 microns
• Synthetic blend media media reinforced with a metal screen.

Comparing spin-on (my car):

Toyota 90915-YZZF2

• Efficiency 51% @ 20 microns
• Paper media
• No end cap

FRAM Extra Guard

• Efficiency 95% @ 20 microns
• Cellulose and synthetic glass fiber blend media
• Paper End Cap

FRAM ULTRA

• Efficiency 99% @ 20 microns
• Dual layer synthetic media reinforced with a metal screen
• clipped metal media ends
• Metal End Cap

Purolator PureOne

• Efficiency 99.9% @ 20 microns
• Paper media
• Metal End Cap

 

Toyota 90915-YZZF2

• Efficiency 51% @ 20 microns
• Paper media
• No end cap

Where did you find the efficiency. Toyota doesn't post them. And Amsoil's website doesn't count :lol:.

I can't find the efficiency for the cartridge filter on my HL (04152-YZZA1).

Facts are this: I could care less what filter goes in the engine. I was comparing the budget fram to the OEM because they are the same price. If you look at them...they look the exact same:
FRAM:

OEM:

So there is no special end cap or whatever. Maybe its more efficient, but with modern engines/oil...the extra efficiency is almost overkill.

The reason I use OEM is that, regardless of what you think about false accusation on FRAM...true or not, they exist. There is no way all of them are false, and I rarely hear anything bad about OEM. I only hear people raving about these filters, being great bang for buck. Does FRAM (or other companies) make better filters, sure. But not for $5.

 

Why I get annoyed at the FRAM OCOD hate. Nothing but false rumors and myths.

Exhibit A: "OCOD paper end caps" vs. "no end caps at all".

Inside a FRAM Extra Guard

Inside a OEM Toyota

"I wouldn't put that OCOD on my car!"
"Toyota filters are awesome!"

The Toyota filter has no end cap at all. The anti drainback valve and the bypass valve are dangling on a tiny metal tube. But thats ok right? Lets talk about that paper FRAM.

You can see the hypocrisy with your own eyes. I'm not for or against any filter, just giving visual facts to support my statement that "OCOD" and "paper end caps" is nothing but nonfactual myths, untruths, and misinformed internet rumors.

 

PS: You had me looking at costs, found a guy on eBay from my area who is going to sell me a box of 10 OEM filters for $40. No shipping, we are meeting to get them. So this discussion saved me some money, thanks!

 

I buy wix. I've been nothing but pleased with them.

 

lol I didn't know we're talking about the EXTRA GUARD.




I use a fat*** PL30001 filter on my truck. 401 sq.in. of good stuff.

and the internal isn't made of paper for PureONE, i opened mine up and it was definitely synthetic.

 

lol I didn't know we're talking about the EXTRA GUARD.
I use a fat*** PL30001 filter on my truck. 401 sq.in. of good stuff.
and the internal isn't made of paper for PureONE, i opened mine up and it was definitely synthetic.

The media goes by the same name it did in the 1970's. Read this description, the bold text and look at the video. Exactly what it is - "Micronic resin impregnated cellulose, combination Micronic and wound viscose rayon, or all wound viscose rayon elements."

I've studied hundreds of filters to know the difference. Synthetic media is softer more like a pillow. synthetic blends are thinner, but not not hard, thin and stiff like the resin coated cellulose/rayon above. Its a proven media, why they stick with it. The PureOne is not an extended interval filter per Purolator, another clue its not synthetic. Purolator has a new synthetic filter that is not out yet. For extended intervals. Will compete with M1, K&n, FRAM ULTRA extended interval filters.

All this being said, yeah I like them too.

 

I don't need to see inside of the fram filter. It is easy. Just use Toyota OEM.

you can find on ebay, 10 toyota oem filter for $40.

Toyota OEM filter are strong, and great quality.

 

I've always used Toyota OEM filters & have never had any problems in 30+ years. I get them from my buddy that works at a dealer for $3.50 each & no sales tax. I don't really see the need to worry about using anything else when the OEM filter works just fine with my 5k mile oil changes. :thumbsup:

 

Another internet load of hooey.

Millions of Fram filters are sold annually. Almost none have any problem. If you change your oil on a regular basis, any name brand filter will do the job.

Are there better filters? Sure. Are Fram filters going to ruin your engine? No.

 

Another internet load of hooey.

Millions of Fram filters are sold annually. Almost none have any problem. If you change your oil on a regular basis, any name brand filter will do the job.

Are there better filters? Sure. Are Fram filters going to ruin your engine? No.

Well in the case of my buddy and his Vette, the answer to your question is YES :rofl2:

As with any product - if you have had a bad PERSONAL experience - you will talk bad about the product and not use it.. Just like me and Fords Sh$$ty 5.4L Engine.. The design sucks and I am 1-2% of the owners who had a bad experience... So as they say in baseball - "You are only as good as your last at Bat......"

 

Is it my imagination, or does the filter material (paper versus synthetic) make absolutely no difference (for a normal 5000 mile oil change interval)?

 

Correct! I'm re-using the newly released synthetic FRAM ULTRA spin-on for 2X7k intervals. I take it off, let it drain while the oil drains, screw it back on. Its rated for 15k, I will be the guinea pig and let you guys know what happens. If I weren't doing that I'd be using the paper walmart Purolator classic for $3.97

Note: My engine is cleaned up, been running synthetic for thousands of miles so the re-use may not apply to dirty dino users.

 

leakyseals
I take back what I said about them being identical. Looks like FRAM has updated their fitlers. I was at Walmart picking up oil for when I change it tomorrow (btw for anyone who does their own oil the Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 5qt jugs are only $19.95 right now) and decided to pick up a FRAM filter to use next time (after I use my OEM one). And they are definitely different. Was the same price as OEM and well I'll yet yall decide which is "better". I still think a filter is a filter :lol:. Also worth noting the stupid plastic oil canister drain...thing... was the wrong one for the 2GR-FE. I'm just using the one that came with the OEM filter.

 

leakyseals
I take back what I said about them being identical. Looks like FRAM has updated their fitlers. I was at Walmart picking up oil for when I change it tomorrow (btw for anyone who does their own oil the Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 5qt jugs are only $19.95 right now) and decided to pick up a FRAM filter to use next time (after I use my OEM one). And they are definitely different. Was the same price as OEM and well I'll yet yall decide which is "better". I still think a filter is a filter :lol:. Also worth noting the stupid plastic oil canister drain...thing... was the wrong one for the 2GR-FE. I'm just using the one that came with the OEM filter.

If you don't mind, how about an experiment? I'm interested in how a "end-capless" filter media may perform under oil pressure. Find the media seal on each filter. The seam where the pleats glue/clip together.

• What are the seams connected with on each filter? Glue? metal?
• When you "fan" or stretch the media near the seam, which one provides the best resistance against the seam letting go/being perforated?

Where I'm going: Without end caps to keep the media pleats stabilized and in place, oil pressure could stretch and flatten the pleats. Possibly pulling the pleats apart at the seam, leaving oil passing straight through without filtration.

 

I can't test the FRAM since its currently soaked in oil inside the engine :lol: But I can comment on what I remember.

The Toyota has the mini plastic caps at each end, but beyond that its all held together with glue. From what I saw of the FRAM, its all glue as well.

As for which one resists fanning out the most it depends. The toyota one is very resistant to that. It won't move inside of the plastic caps on the end. The fram though was iffy. 1/3 to 1/2 of the filter "arms" (not sure on the term) weren't attached to the plastic end caps. Those moved and stretched FAR easier than the toyota one. But the ones that were fully attached were just a hair more resistant than the toyota one.

As for at the seems, I can't comment about the FRAM as I didn't look at it, but the Toyota one doubles up the arms there. Instead of being spread out, they are side by side, and I have to really push it to separate it outside of the plastic cap. Inside of it, its totally immovable. I don't think its ever coming apart.

Overall, it seems the fram has a weaker media, but if the glue is present it can match/slightly outperform the toyota in strength, but the toyota is very strong without any support on the outside edges.

 

Wow, I didn't know you could get that in depth on oil filters. I usually use a FRAM filter, but that's just by chance since it's part of the shops specials.

For my latest oil change, I ended up using an O' Reily inhoue brand called Microgard. We'll see how that pans out..

 

Using ANY name brand filter and changing oil at recommended intervals is more protection than any engine "needs" in order to live a long life. People love to split hairs over what is "better" but very little science and a lot of emotion and opinion come into play.

The internet has exposed all of the amateur experts...

 

The internet has exposed all of the amateur experts...

:lol: yep.

 

I've been using Fram filters since 1973. At the time I was working at a boat yard where they had a fleet of rental boats all with inboard engines. Each year the boats would put on enough hours to warrant engine work. Some of the engines used spin on filters but some used cartridge type as well. They switched to Fram filters that year. Over the next five years there was a noticeable improvement in engine life before bottom end work.
I've been using Fram ever since and have never had a filter failure or a failed engine. Good enough for me. I use fram filters in my 07 corolla. Today I set about to do an oil change. I checked the kilometers when I did the last changed. That was over 10,000 kilometers ago. I checked the oil and it has not dropped on the stick and is perfectly clean. I'm using castrol non synthetic oil. I know I should be changing the oil every 8,000 but I'm thinking it may be a wasted to do it that often.

 

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/te...forum/technical-chat/123608-toyota-oil-filter-made-thailand-vs-competition.html

How does the fram ultra compare to the toyota oem filter?

 

It doesn't - Don't by Fram unless you want to buy another Engine!