This just means your clutch-plates aren't releasing fully.

Try this test coming to a stop:

1. step in clutch

2. move shifter into neutral position

3. release clutch

4. step in clutch

5. shift into reverse

6. shift into neutral position

7. let out clutch

8. step in clutch

9. shift into first.


Does it go in without clunking???
How did you bleed clutch?

 

The other thing is technique. You'll want to match RPMs when shifting into 1st. So if you're going 15mph in 2nd and want to downshift into 1st, bring the revs up to 3000rpms before moving the shift lever. It should go in smoothly then.

That goes for every shift, you'll want to set revs to be what it will settle on in next gear anyway before letting out clutch. That way, RPMs won't change and car won't jerk when letting out clutch. With proper matching of RPMs, you can actually shift without using clutch at all.

 

DannoXYZ wrote:
This just means your clutch-plates aren't releasing fully. Try this test coming to a stop:

1. step in clutch

2. move shifter into neutral position

3. release clutch

4. step in clutch

5. shift into reverse

6. shift into neutral position

7. let out clutch

8. step in clutch

9. shift into first.


Does it go in without clunking???
How did you bleed clutch?


I did the test. It will NOT go into first from neutral while moving; no gear grinding, just hit a wall when I tried to go into first. It goes into second and third, grinds when I put it in reverse.
I changed the slave cylinder, then flushed and bled the system, adding new fluid.

 

How fast are you moving when trying to move lever into 1st?
How did you bleed clutch?

 

Thanks.

About 10-15 mph.

Before and since having this problem, I bled the clutch fluid after changing out the slave clutch cylinder. My gf held down on the clutch pedal, I opened and closed the slave bleeder valve, then repeated. She noticed an improvement in the clutch pedal after my complete bleed. I verified that the pH and water content of the new clutch fluid were okay last week.

No change in this issue after bleeding the clutch fluid.

Thanks!

 

That may be a bit fast for 1st gear, I usually don't use 1st gear unless starting from stop. Otherwise I stay in 2nd-gear. Heck, sometimes, I even start in 2nd-gear.

Anyway, that procedure will work since clutch system has return-spring. Using brake-bleeding procedure may be easier with less risk of sucking in air:

1. wrap base of bleed-screw with grease to prevent sucking in air
2. loosen bleed-screw just slightly, 1/4-turn typically is all that's needed
3. assistant steps on pedal
4. tighten/close bleed-screw
5. assistant lets up on pedal
6. go back to #2
7. check reservoir and re-fill often.

At this point, I suspect your car is fine and operating correctly. If you really want to shift into 1st when moving, learn to double de-clutch. This matches speed of input & output shafts and allows gear-shift to 1st since it doesn't have synchromesh. Like driving one of these dinosaurs:

 

Be sure there are no leaks anywhere in the hydraulic system. Mater cylinders can also fail internally with out leaking and cause them to not produce enough pressure to move the slave cylinder enough. If it grinds when trying to go into reverse it is likely that the clutch is not fully disengaging.

 

Thanks.

I bought the car around March of this year with about 143k miles and lack of adequate maintenance. The clutch fluid was dark and had black debris. It was my first time changing the slave clutch cylinder. I haven't done the master clutch due to being busy and intimidated by the extra work involved on both sides of the firewall. Do you think I should change it as preventive maintenance and a possible solution to the problem?

The only time reverse has gear grinding is during yesterday's test suggested above when the car was moving forward.

The only time it absolutely won't let me shift into first is when the car's moving and I'm downshifting from neutral. In other words, if I put the clutch into second, THEN into first, there's no problem.

Any further thoughts?

 

Any further thoughts?

I don't think I've ever had a vehicle I could comfortably shift into first while rolling forward at anything more than a slow walk, and I've never really thought of that as a problem.

 

Yeah that was pretty normal with my tercel too...I just accepted that it didn't want to shift in to first while moving. I never really found a need to be going 10-15mph and downshift to first.
You probably should have replaced the master cylinder at the same time as the slave. If you had debris in the hydraulic system then the master cylinder probably isn't too far behind from failing too. I replaced mine - while it wasn't the most enjoyable job, it wasn't too bad. I unbolted the brake master cylinder enough to move it over a bit in order to get access to the clutch master cylinder.
I knew mine had failed because the clutch pedal would lose pressure if I held it in. Put it in first and keep the clutch pressed down...if the engine starts the lug/stall then you know the master cylinder is pooched.

 

Thanks.

I was unable to fit a 10mm wrench into the clutch fluid line/master cylinder interface. Space is way too tight and I was concerned about damaging the clutch line by moving the master cylinder. Any tips?

Thanks