Please Help Me Out Guys!

 

Go to your nearest auto parts store and pick up 4 quarts of 5W-30 motor oil (usually they'll have a DIY oil change special), filter, and a filter wrench. Be sure to test fit.

Note: Most filters have a canister head, which the filter wrench will come in handy, while others have a wrench nut on the head of the filter.

1. After your trip and the oil is heated, let the engine cool down.

2. Jack up the front of the car (there is a jack point on the front crossmember) and put jack stands on the sides.

3. Crawl under and locate the oil pan, placing the oil pan in front of it (best have something under the pan). With a 14mm socket unscrew the pan bolt and let the oil drain into the oil pan

4. While the oil is draining, remove the oil filter with an oil filter wrench. Take out the new filter and with the new purchased oil, apply a thin coat on the filter rubber ring. Then tighten hand tight only.

5. Once the oil stops draining, clean excess oil on the pan then screw the pan plug back on and lower the car back down.

6. Remove the oil cap and pour the new oil in via funnel.

7. Start the car and let it run for 10sec. Check dipstick for oil level and add if needed.

8. Replace oil cap and close hood.

 

I get Purolator PureOne filters at Advanced Auto Parts where I live. It's one of the best filters for the money. For about the same price you can get an OEM filter from the dealer. Don't mess with FRAM filters, they're junk.

For the PureOne filters...
Part number is PL14476 if you have the 4 cylinder.
Part number is PL10241 if you have the V6.

I buy 5W-30 Castrol GTX in the 5 quart jug from Wal-Mart. They usually have the best deal in my area, unless there's a good sale elsewhere.

You really shouldn't have to jack the car up to get to the drain bolt unless your car is slammed. I can change the oil on my V6 without jacking it up and it's lowered on H&R Sport Springs. I can change it even easier on my 4 cylinder Camry which is not lowered(both are '95s).

Be sure and get a crush washer from the dealership to put on the drain bolt when you put it back in. Also, make sure you get the old crush washer off. Sometimes it sticks to the oil pan when you take the bolt out and you might look at it and think its part of the pan, but take it off (unless of course there isn't one there). Reusing the old washer, or accidentally putting on two becuase you didn't remove the old one, or not putting one on at all will frequently result in a leak.

I'd also recommend putting some cardboard under the car if you're changing it somewhere that you don't want to spill oil, i.e. driveway or garage floor, etc.

Also, you're likely to dump some oil when you take the old filter off, so slide a pan under that area when you take it off and be prepared to clean up good around that part of the engine.

Good luck.

 

I would recommend a oil filter from the dealer....... Also you need a 14mm socket/wrench

 

I hate the upside down filter on the 4 cyl so while the oil is draining I put a hole in the top center of the filter with a center punch. A screw driver will work too. This allows the oil to drain back into the pan through the return side. A couple of paper towels or shop rags below the filter catch the mess.

Also whatever filter you use try to find the longest one of that brand. This will giv eyou more filter media sq inches. Example: For the I4 Wix standard replacement is the 51394 but a slightly longer one is the 51396. (NAPA Gold #'s 1394 & 1396). Purolator #'s are L14476 & L14477. I find on my I4 it takes almost 4.5 qts of oil to bring the oil level to the top of the dipstick. Start with four qts, run the engine for a couple minutes, turn off, and then add 2-3 oz at a time until the oil is at the level you want. Be sure you give it time to drain back to the pan before you add any and each time you add a little.

 

Sure. Some people think an upside down filter is convenient, I think it's the stupidest idea in the world precisely the reason you mentioned.

As far as a longer filter, I totally agree. The excellent Purolator "PureOne" (not the cheaper Premium Plus) PL14477 is better than PL14476. This longer filter is used on the 2.4L.

 

You didn't mention if it's an I4 or V6, which makes a difference as to how much oil you'll need.

The key points have already been said, like getting a good filter and a crush gasket from the dealer. You'll feel accomplished after changing your oil for the first time and feel silly for bringing it somewhere else prior to changing it on your own. Don't forget an oil eater box and a funnel to make it easier to refill your oil.

I use ramps which makes things MUCH easier. Without them it's do-able but ramps were a good investment for me.

 

Think its worth the money in the long haul to go with full synthetic oil.

Also, change the oil after the engine has warmed up, though you'll need a leather glove to hold the filter wrench when you change the oil filter so you won't get burned by the exhaust manifold.

 

Ramps are a great investment and only cost about 40-50 bucks at your local AutoZone or Napa.

 

Go to the dealer and get part number 90915-yzzf1 it's the bigger filter for the new 2.4 and probably still the new 2.5. OR get whatever they tell you which is the smaller filter if you want then. They will sell you a washer for free or they should, you don't really need it I don't know why they push it but it's for your oil pan bolt cap which holds the oil in. But, tell them it's the 95 for the washer part. Drain and refill. Use a small oil catch pan and you don't need to raise the car. Remove oil drain 14 millimeter plug, replace oil filter, and refil with about 3.5 quarts of decent oil, not the cheap shit. Torque the oil filter on hand tight which is only about 5 pounds, the 14 millimeter bolt goes on about 20-25 pounds it's not to difficult, you can always check it after a few hundred miles if your worried.

DO this frequently to avoid sludge which can fry your motor.

Oh yeah, wait at least 10-15 minutes or up to an hour after the drain plug before you pull the filter, and especially if the car has been run in the last hour or two, but that's with the OEM filters which have anti-drainback which helps hold oil in the filter which is a good thing. I also drain right when it's hot and also for hours or overnight.

I would love to know what angle to have the car at to get the most oil drained out of this motor, anyone???
BTW, my rightup is for the 5sfe.

 

Besides the 14mm socket and new (prefer aluminum crush washer) washer, you also need a filter wrench for a small diameter filter. The HF one below, often on sale for less, is convenient:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=36778

It's interesting I didn't see oil change DIY on 5SFE. But the following is one on the V6. Well, similar.

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=226145

I'd second on the Purolator PureOne filter, from your local PepBoys. Except I'd go with 10W-30 for temperatures above IIRC 0 degF?

 

thanks for all the help guys. unfortunately, I had limited time so before I seen any of these messages I went to autozone and met one of the honest people that worked there and he hooked me up, i'll tell you guys the filter brand and oil brand i used. Overall the oil change for the first time was a success with me and was about the same as changing the transmission oil. I appreciate you guys soo much for all the tips i'm going through them all and sucking up every tip! I have a lot more questions dealing with other things (like my investment in a double din touchscreen that i'm soon to get) but that's for another thread. Once again guys thanks a lot! Pictures of my ride will be posted soon!