where did you end up buying it at for that price?

 

looks like trdpartscenter.com - click on the pages in his message. Seems like a great price

 

yes on the wire harness question.

You also need to connect the front connector
See link (is part of the wire harness instructions)

http://sumbiz03.home.comcast.net/~sumbiz03/TrailerWireHarnessFrontConnector.pdf

 

I just installed my factory hitch a couple weeks ago. You just need the hitch and the wiring harness. The harness goes in after the hitch is installed. The hitch takes maybe an hour, the wiring harness maybe 15 minutes. Cutting out the plastic under car fascia takes a little longer. That can be done at your leisure. The OEM hitch is great.

If you have the backup camera, you can back right up to the trailer and just lower it onto the hitch. Really cool and easy!!!:clap:

 

What did you use to cut the plastic?

 

Thanks. So does anyone know what that 4 wire flat harness is for?

 

Toyota does not do a good job with their "tow package" on the HL.

You get four wires from the front under the dash to the back on the drivers side and you get extra cooling. That's it.

Oh you actually want to tow something????
you need to buy a hitch.
Oh you actually want to connect trailer lights????
you have to buy the wire harness to connect to the wires in the back and it comes with the flat connector that is used with a trailer.

The bigger frustration is the tow rating of 5,000 lbs allows you to tow a trailer that requires electric brakes and a 7 wire connector. The four wire works for boat trailers with surge brakes but you have to run extra wires to the back if you require trailer brakes There is a good write up on how to do this in the ***READ FIRST*** DIY: Modifications and Maintenance section

 

You can buy the wiring harness from Etrailer.com for $40

I ordered it a and a bracket and it looks factory.

Wiring Harness:
http://www.etrailer.com/Vehicle-Wiring/Toyota/Highlander/2010/118449.html?vehicleid=20109870
Bracket:
http://www.etrailer.com/p-18144.html

 

For cutting the plastic, I used tin shears which turned out to be tedious. I ended up using an electric jig saw which worked great. The cuts don't have to be perfect or even pretty for that matter. The hole you drill has to be in the exact right spot though. Measure that carefully - it has a bolt that goes through it.

There are some pretty good instructions on this website.

 

For cutting the plastic, I used tin shears which turned out to be tedious. I ended up using an electric jig saw which worked great. The cuts don't have to be perfect or even pretty for that matter. The hole you drill has to be in the exact right spot though. Measure that carefully - it has a bolt that goes through it.

There are some pretty good instructions on this website.

Where exactly are the Highlander Hitch Installation instructions? I can't find them anywhere on this web site. Pointers or links would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

 

Just got an aftermarket hitch installed this week along with wiring and brake controller for about $600 at a local RV place. It looks fine. I pulled the camper with it today and Highlander pulls it pretty well. The camper is about 4500 lbs.

 

What are you hauling (make/model)? Is that 4500 lb loaded? How is it with braking or going up hills? Do you use a WDH? How loaded was your Highlander whne hauling this (i.e. lots of people and cargo)? I'm just curious as I am considering a 4300lb hybrid trailer (dry weight) that would likely be around 4700-4800 lb loaded. I suppose it couldn't be any worse than hauling a 2000lb tent trailer with an 05 Camry (4 cylinder) which I did many times.

 

Pulling a 25 ft Terry Dakota Ultralite. The GVWR is about 4500 lbs. The vehicle pulls OK when fully loaded. It won't pull like a full size truck but it will hold it's own on the highway. Using a WDH. Gas mileage not great. Braking is no problem when using the trailer brakes also.

 

OK. So I had a problem with the first hitch delivery. I called TRD parts and they were very accomodating and fixed the problem. I would order from them again. I installed it today and it took me about 3 hours. I did have some trouble putting the facia back on. All in all it went well.

 

tvnorm123 - What was the problem you had with the hitch from TRD. I ordered on and it arrived today - installing over the weekend, but before I get started wanted an idea what to look out for.

Also, di you get the hitch pin & clip with it?

 

Oh yeah, Since I was alone I found jack stands to be a help.

 

I got the first box and it looked like it got dropped shipped from an airplane. The box was beat up and would you believe the entire hitch and wiring harness was missing! The facia piece also was not packed well and was scratched. Think someone at the shipping warehouse has a highlander? You should have the hitch, 2 mounting plates, the facia piece, a hardware bag, Toyota reciever cap/plug and wiring harness in a separate box. I dealt with the manager and he made sure to pack the replacement really good. Like I said before I would buy from them again. I was annoyed that I had to wait an additional week for the replacement because I had intended to use the hitch after the first one was delivered.

 

Thanks - mine came somwhat beat up too, but looks like all the parts are there. I also ordered the ball mount and ball from them - they were in the same box as well - but no hitch pin/clip. But I am unsure if it was supposed to be included. Not an expensive part either way - I'll call Monday to find out.

 

I bought a hitch from Farm & Fleet which is a midwest farm supply store for $160. Valley was the brand and made by Reese.

I got the wiring kit of the internet for about 1/3 of the Toyota parts counter price. I think it was from Etrailer

The hitch hangs a little lower than the factory one and does not require any clearance mods.

I towed a motorcycle on a 4X8 Harbor Freight kit trailer so no brake controller was needed. The big trip was to Tn. and N.C. Even with many mountains, I got 25.5 mpg for the 1,800 mile round trip.

Bike and trailer was at about 1800lbs. I was very careful to get 60% of the load ahead of the axle and 10% on the hitch. It towed like it was on rails.

 

I bought a hitch from Farm & Fleet which is a midwest farm supply store for $160. Valley was the brand and made by Reese.

I got the wiring kit of the internet for about 1/3 of the Toyota parts counter price. I think it was from Etrailer

The hitch hangs a little lower than the factory one and does not require any clearance mods.

I towed a motorcycle on a 4X8 Harbor Freight kit trailer so no brake controller was needed. The big trip was to Tn. and N.C. Even with many mountains, I got 25.5 mpg for the 1,800 mile round trip.

Bike and trailer was at about 1800lbs. I was very careful to get 60% of the load ahead of the axle and 10% on the hitch. It towed like it was on rails.

Nice rig...amazing but it looks like we own very similar stuff. I have a 2010 Limited in magnetic gray, a 4'x8' H.F trailer, and I have a 98' Honda Valkyrie Tourer. I like your Rune, those are rare.

I think you may be slightly over estimating your weight at 1800# though. My Valkyrie only weights about 750# and the trailer alone is around 300#...I suspect your rig is closer to the same as mine rather than 1800#...

 

I am usually always looking to save a buck myself, but figured the OEM would look nicer. I am happy with the way it came out.

 

The Rune is 877 lb curb weight. It is heavier than a Wing. The trailer has a 3/4 bed and two spares. The second one is on the opposite side as the first and hidden by the bike.

Also, underneath are steel brackets holding a 18" wide 6' steel ramp so I think that I am close on the weight.

The Hylander Limited was my wife car. We trade every two years so she has a 010 Camry SE now. The Hylander had 36K on it and we traded even on the SE.

I just have to pull the little trailer with my Rock Warrior now.

 

Did the Hitch Install yesterday

I ordered the hitch from www.toyotaofnashuaparts.com as their prices were the lowest. The total install, including all cover modifications and wire harness took just under 4 hours on my 2010 Highlander with only 3K miles. I am a moderately equipped and skilled mechanic and offer the following thoughts:

1) Consider seriously about ordering the parts online like I did. It probably saved me about $120, but came with some issues. First, some small nuts and bolts to attach the wire harness to the hitch were missing, but these were easily replaced locally. Second, the boxes came all beat up - it weighs 85 lbs with receiver and ball, and I guess some one didn't want to lift gently. As a result, the hitch itself was bent out of alignment which I didn't notice until trying to bolt it on (after removing all covers/fascia etc). Luckily I was able to work it back. had I not been able to, I am not sure the return process and time would have been worth the savings.

2) Some bolts were very difficult to get in (maybe because of the hitch being out of alignment at first). I do not have a compressor/impact gun and did it all by hand. It would have been impossible without my 1/2" drive ratchet and a 3" extension. There wasn't enough leverage with my usual 3/8" ratchet I use. Same on removing the factory installed tow hook bolts.

3) The install directions that came with the hitch were photocopied photocopies and very poor quality. Without the directions I printed from TN it would have been real difficult. The wire harness didn't come with the directions (or they were lost in shipping) so again TN was invaluable.

4) The hitch directions have you cut tabs (Step 3b) on the fascia you are removing and replacing with the one in the kit. If you plan of keeping/reinstalling for whatever reason, order a couple (2) of pins P/N 52535-28020, and cut the pins to remove.

5) you have to cut the underbody covers to replace them. I use a Craftsman Nextec Multi cutting tool, it worked great, cut it all neatly right along the lines.

6) If installing alone, you can get the hitch lifted and in position by lifiting one side and starting a bolt, then getting one in on the other side. If you do it this way, do the muffler side first. A second pair of hands is better though. Also, a second set of hands makes getting the push pins back in a lot easier.

7) Also, definately remove the spare tire before installation and crank the lift back up (otherwise it hits you in the head constantly)


I think those are my lessons learned. I say definately it is a do it yourself job, but be prepared for hic-ups if you get it shipped.

 

Take a look at the trailer hitch subsection of this forum's Modifications & Maintenance sticky thread. Here's a shortcut to navigate there.

 

I'd like to know how you can tow an 1800 lb trailer and get better mpg than i can get without a trailer. Please let us know how you are accomplishing this feat. The best i can get is 24 mpg in an empty car. Do you have a v6? Any mods?

 

I have a v6 AWD and the best mpg I can get is 18. Are you guys in 4cy FWD?

 

I can get 24 mpg on highway under ideal conditions. no hills, no passing, with cruise control. Around town 18mpg is normal.
2010 HL Limited, V6, AWD.

I get 15 mpg with an 1800 lb boat.

 

Factory Hitch Install

Thanks for everyone's tips on this thread.

Okay, finally decided to order the factory hitch from toyotapartsstore.com and bit the bullet on trying to install it myself ($440 with shipping). The Toyota dealer price was just too expensive. I did not order the harness kit since I'm only planning to tow a 4 bike platform rack. I could always install the harness kit separately in the future. The box came a little beat up with one of the ends busting through the box slightly. Luckily no serious damage.

All in all, it took me and a couple friends about 3-4 hours of work. I'm not a real mechanical type and was a little novice about the required tools (i.e. I had to research about what a torque wrench was and borrowed one..great tool). I ended up using a jig saw for the plastic covers under the car (free handed the required cut-outs with side-walk chalk). I'm so glad its done.....l'm very happy with the install. I decided to order the exhaust tip as well since I was down there anyway. It's definitely a DIY project.

Some key learnings:

1) Have 2 guys under the car to lift up and bolt in...would be great to have a 3rd person hold up the middle while the bolts are hand screwed in to alleviate some of the pressure

2) Take a good look at how the plastic moldings fit relative to the car body parts (take a picture if you have to). It was confusing for me when I tried to reinstall the plastic moldings because I couldn't recall how they were positioned and which screws went where

3) Save the screws, bolts, etc. in separate sandwich bags for each area

4) If you have an exhaust tip, remove it before installation

5) I got confused in the instructions (step 3d) where it ask you to remove rubber drain plugs on the L & R. There's some exposed drain hosing on both the L & R for moisture build up or somethinng. The instructions are not referring to those drain plugs, it's simply the rubber plugs that are in the factory pre-drilled holes...

6) The holes in the hitch for the bolts have some give (left and right) in terms of what position the bolts tighten onto the hitch. The instructions ask that you center the bolts as much as possible. I was so busy trying to get the bolts in I didn't do the centering. If you plan to tow a trailer, I'd imaine you would definitely want to do the centering so that the hitch is as centered as possible for serious towing.

Here are some before & after pictures:

BEFORE


DSC_7441 by Texas Tongs, on Flickr

Hitch and Contents


DSC_7443 by Texas Tongs, on Flickr

AFTER


DSC_7467 by Texas Tongs, on Flickr

Got to put it to use recently:


DSC_7558 by Texas Tongs, on Flickr


DSC_7597_edited-1 by Texas Tongs, on Flickr

 

Looks good Tongs!

Good choice on the Yakima product line.

 

Looks good Tongs!

Good choice on the Yakima product line.

Did you end up installing the hitch on your HL without the harness kit ?

 

Tongs,

Not yet. Toyotapartsman (site sponsor) out of Newman, GA has the lowest price. I am waiting for the harness to become available. I need the full set up.

 

See the note I posted in your other thread.

Be aware that the Highlander wire harness is only a 4 pin plug not a 7 pin that is required to work trailer brakes if over 3000lb.

The mod's sticky has the step by step on what you have to do to get a 7 pin plug capability. Boat trailers with surge brakes do not need the 7 pin plug

 

Summer,

thanks for that info. I was already aware of it. If I need to pull a trailer that big, I'll use the Tacoma for now. Waiting for the diesel Tundra....should be soon...

 

The factory hitch is the way to go, I like to save a buck too but after looking at some aftermarket hitches and then the factory hitch I went for the factory setup. The quality and appearance will far out last the few $ you may save. One thing no one has ever mentioned is the installation of the wiring harness, here in Atlantic Canada I have seen far too many trailer plugs mounted on the outside of a vehicle all corroded, often to the point where they don't even work. When I installed mine I stripped off all the wire loom and clips and just wrapped the wires in electrical tape, I did not run the wires out under the vehicle as suggested, I routed them up into the hidden cargo area and I just route it out under the tailgate when I want to use it, this works fine for the 4 wire setup, it may be a little tight for the 7 wire kit. And yes it is a tight enough seal that exhaust gases can’t get into the vehicle. It’s been there for a year and still looks like new.