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Manual lock hubs?

45K views 87 replies 22 participants last post by  CaptainNonsense  
#1 ·
I have a 95 T100 4x4 3.4 auto. I was wondering what kind of manual lock hunbs I can use on it. I have heard aisin. Do the manual lock hubs from like isuzus interchange?
 
#4 ·
Any set of Aisin manual hubs for 1986-1995 Toyota IFS (independent front suspension) Pickups and 4Runners. Do not buy SFA (soild front axle) hubs they will not fit due to the number of splines and the hub body is shaped different.

Warn and Mile Marker also make hubs that will fit. I tried the Mile Marker hubs and they sucked. I bought a pair of refubed Aisin hubs from a dude on yotatech and they have been flawless.

If you have lots of money and want the best refubed Aisin hubs out there they buy from this guy. He is very expensive but does great work. If you are cheap like me check on ebay and Toyota classifieds for a pair and clean them youself. A good price is around $80-100 for a pair.
 
#8 ·
Yeah that is a decent price for all those parts. I am not sure if the break parts are the same on the T, but you should be able to flip them and make a few $$ back.

Here are a few links to guides on rebuilding the Aisin hubs. Basically disassemble, clean, regrease and reassemble.
Link
Link
 
#10 ·
I just installed a set of the Aisin hubs on my T100. I picked up the pair at a 50% off weekend event at the local salvage yard for...22 bucks!!!! Great Deal! :clap:And they looked like they had hardly ever been used (internally). They need to be repainted but I was too excited and didn't want to take the time to paint!:D Anyway, I paid a total of about $35 for new seals (from Toyota only...and required) and another $25 or so for new stainless hardware (from Lowes, not required).

And I must say...This was a fun and cheap way to retrofit the T100 to reduce the wear and tear on the CV joints and boots. And they look sweet! I followed the numerous online guides to rebuild and install the hubs, and they work like a charm...a true bolt-on with none of the side effects (other than having to get out to lock the hubs to use 4WD). I highly recommend this mod to any 4WD T100s that see only occasional offroad use (like mine!).

And just a note...the hub rebuild is a little tricky but not bad if you follow the write-ups closely. BUT, the rear snap-ring was a bear to get back on (they didn't have the little grooves for the snap ring pliers). Persistence, a flathead screwdriver, and a little muscle and grease (both elbow and wheel bearing) will get it though. :thumbsup:

So here's a few resources...use Zuke's links above plus these:
http://www.yotatech.com/f129/toyota-aisin-manual-hubs-reassembly-186374/
http://www.yotatech.com/f128/aisin-manual-hubs-2nd-gen-4runner-76353/

Parts!
Aisin hubs from IFS Toyota (the straight axles have a different spline count)
Hub dial o-ring (43532-60010) (x2)
Star-shaped hub cover gasket (43531-60010) (x2)
Hub body to rotor gasket (43422-60010) (x2)

Stainless hardware:
For dial face: Bolts are M6 1.00x16, and washers are M6
For hub body: Nuts are M8 1.25, washers are M8 or 1/4"

Tips:
-Use Some PB Blaster on those cone washers...and save them! They cost around $7.50 a pop...yes that's right...to replace them all would be like $85 for the front wheels!!:eek: I got an extra set witht the hubs from the salvage yard just in case (they were free with the hub purchase):D
-Get snapring pliers if you dont have any
-You definitely need a torque wrench
-Test before driving away...wheel off the ground, set hubs to free, spin wheel, wheel should spin and axle should not; set hub to lock, spin wheel, wheel and axle should spin together; set back to free to ensure hub has disengaged
-Have a helper hold the axle when you torque the gold bolt back down when installing the hub body (we used a metal bar to hold the axle flange near the diff)...otherwise the axle will just spin
-When rebuilding the hubs, a great tip I picked up on Yotatech (the WabFab guy) was to use an old toothbrush to apply new wheel bearing grease to everything (it allows nice event coats without being too thick)
-And speaking of grease too thick...don't do it...these aren't wheel bearing that have to be packed...too much grease and they simply won't work

Torque Specs:
Hub body M8 nuts: 23 lb-ft
Internal 12mm gold bolt: 12 lb-ft.
Hub dial face bolts: FSM says 7-8 lb-ft.

I know this isn't a comprehensive list and write-up, but more of a general guide with the parts needed. Again, I highly recommend this for 4x4s that aren't used offroad very often.

Now, I need to find a another set or two for spare parts...I saw a Suzuki Samurai in the yard with the same Aisins...the splines dont match but a lot of the internal parts do! :D

Oh and I used a few pages from a 4Runner (I think) FSM I found online as well. PM me if you want a copy since I don't think we are allowed to post them. Cheers:chug:
 
#11 · (Edited)
Nice write up SC. Like I posted above don't even bother with Warn or Mile Marker, I wasted a lot of time on them. In short the gold bolt does not fit on the inside of the Warn and MM, so the spindle slides and will rub on the hub when cornering.

Another tip is if you reuse the original hub dial face bolts (M6 1.0x16 mm) they snap pretty easily. I broke 2 and spent a good amount of time digging the snapped bolt out before I bought a set of new ones.
 
#12 ·
Nice write up SC. Like I posted above don't even bother with Warn or Mile Marker, I wasted a lot of time on them. In short the gold bolt does not fit on the inside of the Warn and MM, so the spindle slides and will rub on the hub when cornering.

Another tip is if you reuse the original hub dial face bolts (M8 1.25) they snap pretty easily. I broke 2 and spent a good amount of time digging the snapped bolt out before I bought a set of new ones.
Thanks Zuke! And just a quick clarification: the hub dial face bolts are the M6 1.0x16 mm. And great tip on the bolts...I assumed the salvage yard bolts were weak...they were pretty rusty. I'm glad no one ever over-torqued them, otherwise they might not have come off the donor 4Runner! For me, it was a no-brainer to replace the hardware for no other reason than peace of mind! :D
 
#15 · (Edited)
Dont toss those center caps.......

So i finished rebuilding and installing my new Aisin hubs and i used a few threads i found on TN and other sites. The whole project went very smooth but all the threads i found end up the same way; with something that looks like this
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I was just wondering if any one else had noticed that if you take the old center cap and cut out the center you end up with this :D
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made for a much nicer finish :thumbsup:

-Yota4life
 
#16 ·
I thought about doing that, but two things stopped me. 1) I was afraid of water/gunk getting trapped on there and not drying out and causing corrosion. And 2) I have the Enkei wheels and center caps, and the stock Toyota black caps don't fit. I didn't want to risk messing up caps I can't get replaced! :D

But on second thought, I guess the caps are designed to not hold water, so maybe that isn't a concern.

Looks great! :thumbsup:
 
#18 · (Edited)
I have the Enkei wheels and center caps and...I didn't want to risk messing up caps I can't get replaced! :D
So for kicks I tried looking online to find the center caps that came with my Enkei wheels (so I had a spare set to cut up and install over my Aisin hubs). I checked car-part, but there isn't a nearby yard (not worth the road trip even if I could find the correct set). Well, I only managed to find one place (website), and they wanted...wait for it...$53 bucks...per cap! :eek: I think I will be leaving my hubcaps off instead of cutting them up. Maybe they will fund my retirement after 20 years. :D Geez...I picked up another set of Aisin hubs today for less than that! :thumbsup: I plan to actually paint this set to bring them back up to like-new appearance. A guy was parting out an '87 4x4 P/U about 20 miles away. Craigslist find! Woohoo! :clap:
 
#17 ·
Spare part score...

So I was rummaging through a 2WD longbed T100 in the local LKQ and there was hardly anything I could salvage unfortunately...but I did pick up a spare radio/HVAC surround trim and a chrome door badge (I may put it on the tailgate and remove the VERY faded tailgate sticker). I was really hoping it was a 4WD because I want to pick up a spare Tcase to test my skills.

But PM if you cant find a part for your 2WD T and I'll go pull it off. Anyway, I ran across an old Isuzu pickup with the Aisin hubs. So, I scored a spare hub face and locking clutch...
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Spare parts! Woo hoo! Now before anyone accuses me of ruining a set of locking hubs, the other hub was missing the dial face already...otherwise I would have snagged the pair.

And just FYI - the hub bodies on the Isuzu are very different than the Toyota "chrome" style bodies, and are attached with a set of alan bolts (I couldn't get them off). So, I just grabbed the dial face as the set was already broken. :D I haven't confirmed if the locking clutch matches exactly, but my guess is that it does. If nothing else, it's a really cool paperweight! :thumbsup:
 
#20 ·
Anyone using rugged ridge locking hubs,they look like a copy of aisin?
Haha! :D That's funny because I just ran across them for the first time last night right before posting. I had never heard of them before, but I think there is a set on ebay. I'm surprised no one has ever mentioned them in all the posts I have seen about locking hubs for Toyotas. My guess is the same as yours...maybe a Chinese copy of the Aisins?
 
#22 · (Edited)
sounds like you are planning on being a used aisin dealer and parts supplier. Might be a good venture if you find them cheap enough.

Should be getting mine today, if the junkyard boys ever took it off the truck.
Nope...mine aren't for sale. There are plenty of guys who do that already. I wanted a spare set before they get too hard to find.
 
#23 ·
Thought I'd Share...

In my above post I stated I picked up another set of the Aisin hubs this weekend. My wife says I'm ridiculous and just trying to gather parts "before the species dies!" Haha! :D

Anyway, what I didn't share was how I got them. A guy on craigslist was parting out his 87 4x4 P/U, so I called him to see if he would sell the hubs. I didn't get a call back for a few days so I figured he'd sold the truck. No biggie. But I got a call from him on Sunday, saying he sold it to someone else that morning, but that I should call him (the buyer) as he would sell the hubs to me (the buyer wanted the drivetrain and newly recovered seat mostly). So I called and went over and picked them off the truck. Everybody was happy.

I just thought it was very nice of the seller, who had nothing to gain, to go through the trouble to call me (and take my call back since I missed it), and hold onto the sellers info to give to me...he was simply being nice. Cool guy...thanks Jason! :thumbsup: That's rare...except maybe on this forum! :D
 
#24 · (Edited)
So I am planning to redo my spare set of hubs, paint and all, to swap on when I do my brakes in the next few months. So I took the spare dial face I pulled from an Isuzu (from the above pics) and I used some carb and brake cleaner (solvent), cleaned them up, taped them off and painted them...
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I used four coats of enamel paint...it's a little thick to be honest, but someone had repainted the interior of the dial black over the red, requiring an extra coat or two. On the spare set of hubs I picked up, I will likely stick to three, possibly only two coats as they are in better shape...
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The I put some new high temp wheel bearing grease on the internals and bagged them for reassembly later...
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Then I soaked the disassembled hub set set in some vinegar water to soften up the mud and grease...it worked great (wife's suggestion :D). I scrubbed them a good bit as well. They still need more cleaning, but it's a start. I coated them with PB blaster so no rust forms overnight until I get to them tomorrow...
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To be continued...:D
 
#25 ·
Well, the test run on the spare dial face worked out Ok! And my wife and I came to a very important decision...I will be leaving the lettering painted instead of sanding the paint away to reveal the lettering and arrows. ;)
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#26 ·
The spare set cleaned up!
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A lot of guys paint over the original paint. I on the other had...tried that. Didn't work. I put the paint on too thick. :)

So a little paint remover (or a lot, I said it was thick) and the spare set are back to bare aluminum. Next up...paint! Again! That is if Artur Boruc will stop huffing it all and drinking my paint thinner! ;) Happy Friday Rage List. Props to anyone who gets that! :D
 
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#30 ·
I thought about this too...but I am having a hard time getting them perfectly silver. There are tiny bits of the original paint left in the lettering and the very corners. I wire-wheeled them to try to get rid of it, but I was gouging the metal...oops! :eek: And multiple rounds of paint remover just doesnt seem to want to get it all.

They would look very nice in silver against my silver wheels. Next time! :thumbsup:
 
#33 · (Edited)
All Done!

The spare set all cleaned and buttoned up. :clap: Internals cleaned and regreased and face and dials repainted with gloss enamel. They will need new gaskets before going on a truck, but they are ready to go into the T's rear storage well as spares! I think they came out nice. Even the face bolts cleaned up well! Posting to show how nice they can be once you clean them up a bit. Not bad for 24-year old hubs! :D
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