Thru 1991 the ECM for that engine was the same for either transmission but double check because they also offered them with a specific one foe each.
This p/n appears to be for either transmission 89661-32321.
Interesting read:

https://www.toyotanation.com/threads/3s-fe-to-3s-gte-conversion.44820/

 

Thanks for that info, hopefully Charlie, knower of all things 2nd gen can give some input 😅

 

Kifikv

 

I need to run a different FPR, so I would need advice on that as I plan on running about 10psi, also, a fuel management system? I’m not sure on that. I plan on purchasing AFM’s electronic boost controller/gauge.

In 2023? I'd throw the stock ECU in the trash and run a full standalone ECU. Microsquirt on up to whatever you can afford are all options.

You'll need a pump, regulator, new injectors, a few sensors (get rid of the AFM, you'll need an IAT, for instance). You'll need to do some rewiring of the engine harness for all of this.

10psi with good fuel, timing and intercooling will be fine for the engine. Not sure on the A140E, but put a big cooler on that if you turbo before doing the trans swap. Lots of custom pipe work to do to, too.

This is not an easy process, but if you are ready for a big project, go for it!

The 'easy' way is to get a 2nd gen 3s-gte (90-93 JDM or 90-95 USDM) exhaust manifold, turbo and downpipe. Run wastegate boost (5-7psi) and and a RRFPR with a better fuel pump. Less power, more risk - but much cheaper. My turbo 3s-fe was built by someone else... 3s-gte manifold, adapter to T3, custom downpipe, no intercooler, RRFPR, otherwise stock. Janky, but got me to the point of the 3s-gte swap when that motor blew.

-Charlie

 

In 2023? I'd throw the stock ECU in the trash and run a full standalone ECU. Microsquirt on up to whatever you can afford are all options.

Hey Charlie! Good news, I’ve taken your advice on getting the microsquirt ECU and I have all the sensors that microsquirt requires. So I’m pretty excited to see this build starting to come together with the purchase of a t3 header, larger injectors, and some new stuff for the manual swap.

Now I have a couple questions:
1. Now that I have the microsquirt am I able to just trash the old engine harness and plug up the old sensor holes? Or do I still have to keep that for some reason?
2. Do you happen to have the transmission code for the 5 speed for the 3S-FE?
3. I think it’s gonna be best for me to upgrade the pump and fpr, so is this fuel system a return system, or returnless?
4. And what is your opinion on putting this baby on some bags? 😎

 

Charlie, how would I go about getting rid of the AFM and replacing it with the IAT? Would it just be better to get a MAF sensor with the microsquirt ecu? And do you have any other recommendations for a FPR other than an RRFPR?

 

Charlie, how would I go about getting rid of the AFM and replacing it with the IAT?

If you are using speed density calculations for fueling (instead of MAF/AFM), then the AFM just gets in the way - but the OEM AFM also has the IAT integrated (intake air temperature sensor), as does any modern MAF sensor (a temperature sensor is used to internally calibrate the hot-wire MAF). The stock ECU cannot be programmed, so if you are doing things like changing injectors, fuel pressure, or going outside the range of airflow the stock ECU can handle, you need something to control the fuel/ignition besides the stock ECU.

Would it just be better to get a MAF sensor with the microsquirt ecu?

MAF sensors (generally) require a sealed intake system, so blow-off valves, popped off intercooler pipes, etc. stop the car from running. Speed-density (MAP sensor) based fueling is a bit more 'reliable' in that sense. OEMs use MAF sensors because they are better at getting fueling perfect (emissions).

And do you have any other recommendations for a FPR other than an RRFPR?

I don't have any specific recommendations here. A full replacement FPR is a possibility, as is a secondary RRFPR if you aren't doing any advanced tuning (low boost, keeping stock ECU).

There are tons of choices for all of the things you need - there isn't just one answer. You can see the choice I made - use a stock turbo engine/ECU... Lots of power (for its time - things are different 15 years later...) and stock reliability, at the expense of the ability to tune and get maximum power. Maybe someday

-Charlie

 

If you are using speed density calculations for fueling (instead of MAF/AFM), then the AFM just gets in the way - but the OEM AFM also has the IAT integrated (intake air temperature sensor), as does any modern MAF sensor (a temperature sensor is used to internally calibrate the hot-wire MAF). The stock ECU cannot be programmed, so if you are doing things like changing injectors, fuel pressure, or going outside the range of airflow the stock ECU can handle, you need something to control the fuel/ignition besides the stock ECU.
MAF sensors (generally) require a sealed intake system, so blow-off valves, popped off intercooler pipes, etc. stop the car from running. Speed-density (MAP sensor) based fueling is a bit more 'reliable' in that sense. OEMs use MAF sensors because they are better at getting fueling perfect (emissions).
I don't have any specific recommendations here. A full replacement FPR is a possibility, as is a secondary RRFPR if you aren't doing any advanced tuning (low boost, keeping stock ECU).

There are tons of choices for all of the things you need - there isn't just one answer. You can see the choice I made - use a stock turbo engine/ECU... Lots of power (for its time - things are different 15 years later...) and stock reliability, at the expense of the ability to tune and get maximum power. Maybe someday

-Charlie

I truly appreciate your time and knowledge Charlie!!

 

Can you bend your valves when putting your head on in anyway with a v6 Camry 2,5 4vzfe?