I have a 2001 Toyota Camry LE 2.2. my radiator originally cracked on the top plastic bar and it got replaced with a whole new radiator. After that it's still overheated and so I replaced the thermostat. I don't know if the thermostat needed to be lined up a certain way or not it didn't have any markings so I figured I would just line the thermostat up with the screws that hold it in. So I did that new radiator, new thermostat, put antifreeze in and all the works. Well it still is overheating and what it's doing is that it's not blowing hot air and it's not releasing the coolant. If I say it's not really seen the coolant because I would squeeze the hose to see if anything has been released and no it should be hot to the touch if it is once it is warmed up. I thought it was a bad thermostat so I replaced the thermostat with another one. Same problem exist. Is there something I'm missing, or other things I need to replace or check that is causing this overheating issue.The overflow coolant container starts to boil after it runs and gets the temperature gauge inside the car where it is supposed to be in the middle. So everything is replaced as far as I know and it is still overheating and I cannot figure it out, please..... suggestions would be greatly appreciated because I need to get this car moving again immediately. Thank you for your comments, your time, and most importantly your expertise!
Overheating can't find issue HELP!!
charliehassett3
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Okay, soon as the weather lets up a bit I'm gonna get back at it. Day or two. 21 inches of snow in Ohio over the last week. I went and got the right thermostat with the jiggy valve on it and put that in and still have issues. So I will do the spark plugs when the weather lets up and the tailpipe thing as well. I don't know if this matters, but the engine runs fine when I do start it though, it doesn't have any change in way it runs. So I don't know if that would tell you anything about the head gasket being the problem. I hope it would so you can inform me and be good news.
So I will get back to you and I will take pictures too when I do it. that way I can post them. I appreciate your info I really do. Certainly stinks being stuck without a car, but worse things could happen. Thanks again and I'll get back to you soon.
Scotty
So I will get back to you and I will take pictures too when I do it. that way I can post them. I appreciate your info I really do. Certainly stinks being stuck without a car, but worse things could happen. Thanks again and I'll get back to you soon.
Scotty
One more thing. My father said something about taking the thermostat and being able to drive it that way. No heat obviously, but is that a possibility?? Is that also another way to lmk that it might be the gasket issue???
But am I able to drive it with no heat obviously like I said, if I were to take out the thermostat. In case I were to have an emergency or something?? Would it be able to drive if I took it out? Thank you again I appreciate your time
But am I able to drive it with no heat obviously like I said, if I were to take out the thermostat. In case I were to have an emergency or something?? Would it be able to drive if I took it out? Thank you again I appreciate your time
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Don't run it without a T stat fix the issue.
"Is that also another way to lmk that it might be the gasket issue??? "
As mentioned, early on in the post a Block tester on loan from a big box store you will need to buy the test fluid or just buy a complete kit for like +/-$30. You can also use a leak down tester (need a compressor) and also a coolant pressure tester.
"Is that also another way to lmk that it might be the gasket issue??? "
As mentioned, early on in the post a Block tester on loan from a big box store you will need to buy the test fluid or just buy a complete kit for like +/-$30. You can also use a leak down tester (need a compressor) and also a coolant pressure tester.
Well everybody thank you for all your help. I'm just catching up on reading all of them. The advice is amazing and I am going to give everything a shot tomorrow morning, unless I get home early enough today to give it a shot and that will be around 3: 00pm if I get home at a good time. it will be above 20 degrees then and I'm going to give it a shot. I wouldn't want you all waiting around for the suspenseful results of the answers to all my testing attempts, LOL. But, if I can't get there today to do it in that time it will be tomorrow morning probably around 11:00-12:00 noon. I'm going to do everything that is suggested here starting with the air purging. And go from there and I will update you as I do each one. Again I thank every one of you for all your help and it does mean a lot. I'm somebody that loves to learn and absorb knowledge. I take pride, and I take it real serious when i am givien that opportunity. I agree when they say knowledge is power, and if I'm giving the opportunity of gaining any of it, that's always a plus in my book. So I thank you for sharing yours with me. So either today(@4:30pm)or tomorrow(@11:00am est.). Until then, same Bat time...... same Bat channel....... And hopefully Batman will show up and help me out!
-Just me Scotty
-Just me Scotty
Another thing to consider is the temp sensor for the fan or even the gauge could have gotten damaged when the car overheated and is reading incorrectly. Had this happen about 6 months ago to another car.
But Batman is busy saving the city. You can call this guy:
![Image]()
But Batman is busy saving the city. You can call this guy:
2004 dodge ram 1500,2005 avalon,2006 solara,2018 rav4 2006 dodge caravan 1989 wrangler, 2003 mustang
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its very easy to check if your thermostat is working ,bring some water to a rapid boil in a pyrex measuring cup in your microwave so you can see then drop your thermostat in it and if after a couple of minutes it opens up then its working. check to see if the coolant in your radiator is moving or circulating if not then you might have bad water pump, finely check to see if any coolant or water is coming out of your tailpipe,also check your oil and see if there is water mixed in your engine oil and what color it is,and last if you overheated the engine you might have blown a head gasket, they sell a test kit on amazon to check for gases in your coolant, hope this help
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The thermostat has a small hole and that need to be facing upwards. You can check the other side of the hose opposite where the thermostat is located when car is warmed up to make sure the hose is also warm or hot. If not the water pump is not circulating the water and You have a bad water pump
I chased a similar situation years ago with my 87 Toyota.... should have pulled the head from day one....
The bubbles in the tank and other things you mentioned makes me think it's a head gasket. Resurface head and check or lap valves at that time for many years of more service.
I doubt if burping the system well help since the air is getting in internally.
Vicdat
The bubbles in the tank and other things you mentioned makes me think it's a head gasket. Resurface head and check or lap valves at that time for many years of more service.
I doubt if burping the system well help since the air is getting in internally.
Vicdat
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2006 Camry, last summer I drained the coolant from the radiator and then refilled it, letting it run with the cap off. Took close to 25-30 minutes before it would stop bubbling. I turned on the A/C after trying the heater. I did have to keep adding coolant. Whereafter I drove it to Palm Springs in the summer without issue. Can’t rush getting out the air.
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Check the radiator fan if its working and check the water pump
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How about checking your freeze plugs if one is bad it car cause an overheat condition I had a similar problem on a 96 Jeep Cherokee! and yes I know this is a Toyota forum ! also check your electric fan or sensor !
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2-3 years ago my 2005 Scion Xa, morning drive to work, suddenly sprayed coolant, steam and smelled of burnt coolant. Scared the heck out of me. Had it towed to my mechanic, thinking my trusty car was a goner but it was just the radiator cap! Mine was the original cap and 17 years old at that point.1. Coolant system pressure test. Verify system integrity / that it can hold pressure @ 15psi.
2. Radiator cap - replace w/ a OEM cap - as a maintenance item.
3. Thermostat - replace w/ Dealer OEM, or AISIN thermostat that has a jiggle valve installed. Orient the jiggle valve up when installing, so air purges thru the valve.
Use the [ Search Community ] -> Advanced search / this forum for "thermostat" for lots o' threads with helpful info.
Use the following thread, "Engine Cooling System" section for more helpful info,
Official Gen 3 and 4 Camry / Gen 1 Solara DIY and...
For Gen 3 & 4 Camry owners who want to do-it-yourself with regular maintenance, repairs, and modifications, listed below are links that may provide the help you need. It would also be a good idea for any person doing DIY work to purchase a Haynes or Chilton manual that will answer most any...www.toyotanation.com
--
^^ This is what I would do / where I'd start, if here.
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Hi Frind,
Are a mechanic, as you say you determine by touching the hose pipe it hot it's wrong. can please check your temperature gauge? and as you see your radiator cap is psi is ok as the car is supposed to run hot than the Wright temprecher. my suggestion is to check the water curcaler maybe your water pump or fan belt is loose.
check this first.
Thanks.
Uattam.
Are a mechanic, as you say you determine by touching the hose pipe it hot it's wrong. can please check your temperature gauge? and as you see your radiator cap is psi is ok as the car is supposed to run hot than the Wright temprecher. my suggestion is to check the water curcaler maybe your water pump or fan belt is loose.
check this first.
Thanks.
Uattam.
Where is the temp sensor located? Is it the white adapting part that goes into bottom of radiator? The adapter/sensor that I had to take off old radiator and put on new radiator? Thanks for your info. Much appreciated
Where would the freeze plug be located?
1998 Rav4, manual transmission, 2WD, JDM engine installed in 2013
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charliehassett3,
Since the overheating problems began, how high did the temperature gauge needle get? More than 3/4s of the way to the top?
If the temperature gauge never went past 3/4s or so, then I tend to think the problem is an incorrect air purge. As others indicated, this is extremely common with these Camrys.
Once you installed the thermostat with the jiggle valve (correctly oriented, with the jiggle valve roughly at the 12 o'clock position), what exactly did you do to purge air from the Camry?
Since the overheating problems began, how high did the temperature gauge needle get? More than 3/4s of the way to the top?
If the temperature gauge never went past 3/4s or so, then I tend to think the problem is an incorrect air purge. As others indicated, this is extremely common with these Camrys.
Once you installed the thermostat with the jiggle valve (correctly oriented, with the jiggle valve roughly at the 12 o'clock position), what exactly did you do to purge air from the Camry?
I believe the tep senor on these is located on the water outlet omn the driver side of the motor.
Fan I beleiove is bottom of the radiator
Does the fan come on?
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So, what happen with all the testing you did or still snowed out??
Hey there buddy I am so grateful for your information I'm back trying to get this done. I had a little stint of being sick right after I text all of you and was going to do that test on that one day, and then it's been minus -2° to -20° so that also has hindered me from doing these tests that I was reading about. Today I went and got me a new battery because the battery was dying and I needed a fresh start from the battery end. I had left us where I had put the thermostat in with the jiggy valve don't really know which way it's supposed to be situated but I tried to situated with the screws, and I actually lifted the front end up so it was above the engine to try to get air to escape I squeezed the hose that leads to the thermostat multiple multiple times for a while letting air bubbles come out of the radiator radiator cap with it being off, and a bunch of that came up. So this is where I am now I went and got the battery and I started it up just now I was supposed to check to see if there was anything coming out of the tailpipe and what it was if so. What I found was that is just water. There is no oil and no radiator antifreeze, and the way I decided there was no antifreeze it's because of the color was white like water and I also even though I know it's not good for you I tasted it to see if it was sweet. All I got was a water taste. I can't remember that's a good thing or bad thing I'm going to go back and check on these comments and see. So I turned the car on and it started up ran and it did pretty much the same thing it did not open the thermostat at all didn't open because I kept feeling the hose and I didn't feel no warmth or no flow, and it was bubbling again in my overflow container. I know they said that was probably because of a gasket Bean bad but the test I did with the tailpipe I guess decides that. So anyways it ran and the air still was blowing cold out of my vents and like I said the overflow container boiled again. At this point I'm thinking it might be the sensors I don't know which ones so I need help with that, and with any other ideas that you might have or anything else I should do that you recommend. I'm at desperate at this point being the only transportation I have it's really starting to affect my income and life. Any comments and tips would be very greatly appreciated. I'm going to copy and paste this on other replies to thank you for your time buddy sorry I took so long I hope this is enough info if you have any questions please ask I'm here all night reading. I've got to figure this out now that I feel better and the temperature is only at 2°, LOL better than negative I guess
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