Penetrating oil should help. The rear diff you could LIGHTLY tap the plugs with a hammer to help jar it loose and putting some heat on it should help also. I have been lucky, mine have always come out.

 

Well, I finally removed the drain/refill nuts using CRC freeze-off super penetrant, a 15/16" socket wrench and a 2' pipe. I was so satisfied and there were a lot and metal filings on the drain nut, since there was a small magnet on it.

 

diff fluid

Well, I finally removed the drain/refill nuts using CRC freeze-off super penetrant, a 15/16" socket wrench and a 2' pipe. I was so satisfied and there were a lot and metal filings on the drain nut, since there was a small magnet on it.

Just curious, how did the fluid look after how many miles?? I'm having a hard time accepting 30,000 mile intervals on this item, I think 60-90,000 miles would be adequate on most vehicles

 

Is yours a LSD real end? If so you may want to double check the type of lub you put in it

 

Is yours a LSD real end? If so you may want to double check the type of lub you put in it

On the bottle, it says it's suitable for limited slip applications. I'm not really sure if it has an LSD or not though. When I was looking in the Chiltons repair manual, it says the rear diff needs 3.3 quarts if it has the LSD, 4qts w/ no LSD. When I filled it up after draining, I used up almost 3 1/2 bottles until excess starts coming out. So I guess I do have an LSD.

 

In my 2005 owners manual it specifies 80W-90 for the LSD unit and 75W-140 synthetic for the open one. I have the open diff, but a friend has the LSD one and after he changed over to synthetic, the LSD unit started to chatter. Even if the bottle says its good for LSD units, sometimes the additive is needed. What I would do is short fill the diff by about half a pint and try it, then add 4oz at a time of additive until the chatter goes away. Too much and the limited slip traction will be diminished. Chatter usually feels like a "groaning" noise or strange vibration, especially when turning at low speed, like parking. Redline fluid does have sufficient additive already in it, Mobil One does not.

 

LSD for Tundra

I just checked my truck and the rear end has a sticker that has LSD on it. I think, when it is time, i will have the dealer do it. It is not something you need to do every 3K miles.

 

differential fluid

This truck is by far the EASIEST differential to maintain I have ever owned.

Recently converted back in 2004 to Toyota from a lifetime with GM, I have found both my '02 Camry and '06 Tundra to be very easy to maintain.

The dealer charges about $32.00 with tax to do the oil change on the engine. If you buy 7 quarts of oil, and a filter, you will spend about $20.00 to do it yourself.

The differential takes 2 plug removals, 24mm is the correct size, and 4 quarts of Valvoline Dura-Blend will cost about $25.00.

For this, the dealer charges $47.00 with tax and does the procedure simultaneously with the oil change. I am also surprised to find such a frequent change interval on this component.

I drive about 3,500 miles monthly, and enjoy doing my own maintenance. I think I will let the dealer do my 5,000 mile changes, and save the fun of the 30,000 mile interval for myself.

 

30,000 miles is a reasonable interval for dino gear oil, 100,000 for synthetic. Gears can "shear" the viscosity improver moleucles of multigrade and thin it out a bit. Why Toyota used dino in LSD units is beyond me. GM and Ford has used syn, plus special additive, for a decade now.

 

For the record, my 06 Tacoma that only had 13k miles on it was a bitch to get undone as well. I had the proper socket and a 2' breaker bar and got nothing...then I really cranked on it and it came loose. This was only the case for the fill bolt, the drain one was fine

 

UOAs on 'ends haven't been too good. I would always change it out every 30k or less. And, if you work the truck(tow/plow), I would shorten the interval to 15k.

With a breaker bar, and the correct socket, I had no problem removing the 'ends and xcase plugs, on several Toyotas and Sequoias. Use a torque wrench to make future service easier. Just be glad we have drain/fill plugs. Many vehicles don't.

Don't forget that the PSF and ATF need service too.