Use a mechanics stethoscope to verify the compressor as the noise source, versus says the tensioner that may act up when the belt is loaded.

If it is the compressor, and you are not in a huge rush, I'd buy a DENSO compressor remmaned BY DENSO, from RockAuto. Putting a clutch on a 175k mile compressor (at $350) doesn't sound like a great use of funds, time, nor a reasonable expectation of longevity or performance from a tired compressor.

 

I actually bought a stethoscope to do that but then noticed that there is only one belt and the noise is absent when the AC is off so assumed it was not the tensioner.

I agree with your point about the cost. The price to do the entire compressor is only slightly more than just the clutch. However, that means I'd have to unhook the pressure lines and the AC system is probably the only system on the car I have never touched so not sure what the steps are for disconnecting, reconnecting, recharging, etc. I don't want freon blowing in my face. If I could do that safely, I'd go that route. Maybe I'll check Youtube.

 

Best to have the system evacuated by a pro that can recycle the refrigerant. Do the repairs and then have the pro refill it to the correct capacity.

Older or highermileage cars aren't always the best to invest tons of money into. Local salvage yard should have 'used' compressor for <$100. Find a vehicle with low miles. Used are often sold on ebay too and include the clutch/pulley if you want to try a swap 1st.

Denso doesn't automatically mean 'best'.

And, I would still test the idler/tensioner pulleys. Having the A/C engage puts a load on the belt and pulleys. By 175k miles, the idler/tensioner pulley bearings already are beyond a good life. I would gamble on the pulleys as the culprit. My pulley bearings were shot by 120k miles and I used them until 150k miles before the occasional racket was too annoying.

Its also easy to check the charge and top off the freon to make sure that you're not low. Its a $35 r134a can but DIY labor is easy. Cans have a mixture of refrigerant and oil, which might help.
http://acprocold.com/product/acp-100-ac-pro/
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Ac-Pro-A-c-Ultra-Synthetic-R-134-Refrigerant/353326131

 

Best to have the system evacuated by a pro that can recycle the refrigerant. Do the repairs and then have the pro refill it to the correct capacity.

Older or highermileage cars aren't always the best to invest tons of money into. Local salvage yard should have 'used' compressor for <$100. Find a vehicle with low miles. Used are often sold on ebay too and include the clutch/pulley if you want to try a swap 1st.

Denso doesn't automatically mean 'best'.

And, I would still test the idler/tensioner pulleys. Having the A/C engage puts a load on the belt and pulleys. By 175k miles, the idler/tensioner pulley bearings already are beyond a good life. I would gamble on the pulleys as the culprit. My pulley bearings were shot by 120k miles and I used them until 150k miles before the occasional racket was too annoying.

Its also easy to check the charge and top off the freon to make sure that you're not low. Its a $35 r134a can but DIY labor is easy. Cans have a mixture of refrigerant and oil, which might help.
http://acprocold.com/product/acp-100-ac-pro/
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Ac-Pro-A-c-Ultra-Synthetic-R-134-Refrigerant/353326131

Good point about the load on the pulleys. I hadn't thought about that. I'll use the stethoscope first thing to be sure. Thanks.

 

I've confirmed that it is the compressor clutch. If anyone has the manual, would be great to know if it will slide off without having to remove the compressor. There is a center bolt that holds the clutch in place. Remove that and the clutch would normally pull forward and off. Then, remove the o-ring holding the pulley in place and that would pull forward and slide off as well. Just not sure there is enough room between them and the frame.

 

newhl2016, what did you end up doing? I have the exact same vehicle and issue. I am waiting for replacement idler/tensioner pulleys but when I checked the AC pulley it has axial play in it. I am in the same predicament as you were in, doesn't really look like you can replace the clutch/pulley without taking off the front bumper and removing the compressor?

 

I know shops won't re and re a compressor putting a clutch on. Its the same work and if there is a problem its going around again. Not worth it. Not enough room to do that either in the majority on new vehicles.