assuming you've ohm'd out the switches and regulators and also the wiring to ensure you don't have a bad connection somewhere in the harness from the body to the door, then i'd think pulling the part you want to replace would be the best way to match up the model number with the replacement, so you get the part correct for your car/year/model/trans/engine/body/etc...
tony

 

As far as I can determine, it is the BCM. I'm not sure if they come preprogrammed and the problem is it is a pain to get to. It's screwed into the back of the junction box underneath the dash. There isn't much room to work so I'd have to pull all the connections and remove the box just to look at it as there's a metal bar that blocks it.

 

Even if you had to program it with Techstream you can get the cable for $20 off ebay/amazon.
You can do a lot more with it too, its worth it.

 

speedkar, how do you get the actual techstream software? i see the cable, but it's only the cable from what i can tell that connects obd to a computer.
tony

 

Did you test the door lock actuators which are a common Toyota failure point?

Bring VIN to dealer and price out the BCM... Salvage yard trip might be worth

 

I'd like to know what you figured out on this. My '11 Avalon has the same problem and the quote from the dealership was $1k for the part.

 

I did resolve the problem. It was indeed the body control module as suspected. I can't speak for the 2011 model Avalon, but I can tell you my experience. Unfortunately I did not think to take photos while doing the swap but I can describe the process. Finding a BCM either at a salvage yard, off an auto parts store, or through the dealer would have been several hundred dollars. I instead got under the dash, managed to take a photo of the label on the back of the BCM which is bolted into the back of the junction fuse box. I then looked on eBay for the junction box with a BCM number matching that of mine. There are different BCM model numbers, which I assume pertain to the different features they are programmed with, such as sun roof, no sun roof, etc. I am not sure if they are interchangeable, and didn't care to find out. The entire junction box with embedded BCM was only $38 shipped, and I have a spare junction box with extra relays and connectors to boot.

You'll have to undo four screws to remove the plate covering the module. Then you'll need to gently lift the module up with a tool, being careful not to damage the chips and copper leads on the underside. The module is held in by tension with a long and narrow connector linked to the junction box. Try lifting and rocking it side to side. It will flex a little but don't overdue it, and keep the lift pressure on both sides to evenly separate the connector. Eventually it will pop out with enough equal force. I didn't need to remove all of the cables for my junction box in my car, rather I undid the three bolts securing it to the frame and undid a few connectors on the back to give it enough slack to pull down to remove the module and swap. You will need to remove the plastic panel and metal bar on the bottom which holds the ODB port as it blocks the box from the front. It's as simple as popping in the new module. For newer vehicles this may require reprogramming of the remotes if the transmitter is built into the module.

End result is all my locks work properly for about $38 and about an hour of time. It will be half that time if you already know where all the bolts and plastic tabs are that you'll need to remove.

 

Greetings, I have a 2004 Camry XLE with the same issue. I just had two questions. Does the new BCM need to be reprogrammed? Also, can I replace the whole junction box with the BCM attached? Thank you for your help.

 

I got as far as "got a replacement unit from a scrap yard", however I'm stumped about how to remove the BCM from the fuseblock.

I don't see any screws or even any clips that look useful.

I tried prying it off but it's either stuck or screwed on somehow since all I accomplished was cracking the plastic cover.

Any suggestions how to get them apart?

Thanks!

Terry

PS This is on a 2010 RAV4.

 

On the fifth generation Camry the BCM is held to the fuse block via a connector with a lot of tension. The board flexes a lot so if you want to preserve your original then pull up on both sides and wiggle back and forth carefully. You'll need to put a good bit of pulling force on it which will bend the board a fair bit. Putting the new one in is not a problem.

I'm not sure if the 2010 RAV4 is the same. Regardless, if there are no screws or clips, then it's the connector holding it in tight. Be careful how you handle the board to avoid damage from electromagnetic discharge. Grounding yourself to your car before handling with bare hands is ideal. You don't want a static discharge into it.

 

I have a 05 Camry XLE that is exhibiting the same symptoms except only when the outdoor temperature is sufficiently warm. I pulled down the Junction/Fuse Block under the drivers side dashboard to see if I could get a part number. I found a part number but it was for the fuse/junction box. I don't see anything resembling a module. Is there another cover that needs to be removed?

 

ok, I think I figured it out. The body ECM is part of the Junction/Fuse block assembly. I found a part number on the body ECM pc-board but querying for this part does not bring up anything. So you need to get the same part number that your junction/fuse block is. I removed the body ecm by getting a piece of baling wire and putting a 90 degree bend on one end then using it on the body ecm pc-board where the fuse block has depressions closest to the body ecm internal connector and fuse block and the external connector closest to the internal connector and kinda rocking the pc-board back and forth until the internal connector lets go. What I did was removed the pc-board and inspected it for bad solder joints then reinserted it again hoping it was just a bad connection. So far the locks have been working, but the temperature hasn't gotten much past 80 degrees.

 

You can have your original part repaired at UpFix - We save you money on rebuilding your failed electronics!

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Dear all
I have a rav4 2015 I guess I have problem with the Bcm my question is can replace it with the same car model and year but different part number
Best regards

 

An old post I know.... BUT before doing anything, look at that part of the door wiring harness which goes between the door and the door frame! 95% chance there is a break in one or more of the wires, cause by the constant flexing as the door is opened and closed....