It's actually 103 Nm (75.9689 lb-ft)... They should definitely be torqued to only 76 lb-ft.

Torque_values_for_Alloy_wheels_Steel_wheels_Wheel_lock_Toyota.indd (toyota-tech.eu)

 

It's actually 103 Nm (75.9689 lb-ft)... They should definitely be torqued to only 76 lb-ft.

Ok, so they may damaged the wheel studs. 😠 I am going to loosen all wheel nuts and re-torque this weekend.

Hopefully, the wheel studs will not be broken when I loosen them.

Thanks.

 

I loosen and rt everytime when I get home

I trust Noone

I also check the pressure

And oh gee ,it's high everytime

They are also all the same ,Smh, check your door frame

Gota pick your battles if you've got a guy

 

Will be interesting to know how hard they were to loosen.

 

I've definitely torqued mine to 90 ft-lbs. The studs can definitely handle 100, remember that lots of shops put them on with impacts all day long and rarely strip or break a stud (though they shouldn't ever without a torque limiting extension, then a torque wrench after) and people don't use a torque wrench when they use the included tools to install a spare.
It's removing seized nuts and installing them with an impact wrench with nothing to limit torque that does them in most of the time.

 

Usually, if a lug is cross threaded on with an impact

The stud will break trying to get it off

 

Tire Discounters is just about the only tire shop that consistently and fairly accurately uses a torque wrench for the final torque. They also reference a chart on the wall for each make/model.

Nearly all Toyota cars and small/mid size SUVs are 76 ft lbs. The trucks are usually 84.

And yes....I generally check after tire work.

 

Tire Discounters is just about the only tire shop that consistently and fairly accurately uses a torque wrench for the final torque. They also reference a chart on the wall for each make/model.

Nearly all Toyota cars and small/mid size SUVs are 76 ft lbs. The trucks are usually 84.

And yes....I generally check after tire work.

Around Me I've had both Discount Tire and Costco install/patch/balance wheels for me. my discount tire threaded by hand, ran them down with torque sticks, then dropped the car and finished with a click style torque wrench.
The Costco uses a special extended anvil Ingersoll Rand impact that is torque limited in forward but full beans in reverse, then again they finish it with the click style. torque wrench once the car is on the ground. I've actually got a few of the worn out impacts a buddy who worked at the tire center grabbed for me (they only needed a cleaning and re-greasing the hammer assembly) and they just use a piece of fabric material over the forward air ports and that's enough to limit to about 75 ft-lbs. according to my friends, only certain employees were allowed to do the final torque because they take that liability seriously.

I once took a wheel to a used tire shop to have them put on a tire and I installed it myself at home. They used normal impacts with no torque stick, and no torque wrench. I sent my brother there and they ended up replacing three studs on the shop's dime after they broke three studs.
at $40-$60 each for name brand tires that have most of their life left, I'll definitely return for cars that don't deserve brand new tires, but I'll be bringing them wheels off the car, or giving them the socket on a torque stick and torqueing them myself.

 

I worry more about alloy wheel damage and warped rotors than I do damaged lug studs. I'm also not a big fan of torque sticks. But some shops still use them. I don't see them around here as much as I used to though

 

My cars manual calls for 76 lbs, I have a torque wrench and that is what I torque it to, plus maybe just a couple lbs. Over-torquing can cause your brake rotor to warp, damaging both it and can lead to brake damage, vibrations etc. in some cases you can actually bend and break the lugs, I used to torque the hell out of the lugs on my old trucks, they could take it and not have issues, but these cars are built much more delicate, I have broken a few lugs on my lexus once during a roadside flat replacement, did not think I was over torquing at all but damaged 3 of the lugs. IF it was my car I would just back them off and retorque to spec.

 

Oh, if you have a torque wrench, Before you remove the lug nuts, start your wrench below 100lbs and try tightening a few of the lugs, turn the torque up little by little until you no longer get a click without movement, till you get the nut to actually budge, then you will have an idea how tight they torqued them down to, he told you 100lbs, but maybe it was less or maybe it was much more.

 

It is strange why they torqued the wheel nuts so high. This tire shop has a very high positive google review and I went to this shop more than 10 years. They deal with cars everyday and they should know the torque more than me.

Anyway, if I am going to re-torque the wheel nuts this weekend. I just wish nothing will be damaged.

 

To prevent damaging your torque wrench, never use it to loosen overtightened lug nuts, or to crack loose rusty and bonded bolts and nuts, etc.

Avoid using an impact wrench on your lug nuts. Loosen with a 1/2" drive breaker bar, and a 21mm or 13/16" (20.6375 mm) socket.

Retorquing wheel lug nuts on a new 2023 Corolla | Toyota Nation Forum

 

I use the torque wrench only for tightening the wheel nuts.

I have a 1/2” breaker bar and I will use it to loosen the wheel nuts. I have the 21mm socket and a 13/16” short socket.

Thanks for your advise.

 

I kept my old tq wrench for breaker bar ,loosening

Bought a gearwrench 250 ft lbs

It's chinese ,but it's a decent wrench

Link is in tq specs thread

 

While were talking about torque wrenches.....remember to back the wrench down to zero then add a tiny bit of tension. Never store a click type wrench on torque. Obviously this doesn't apply to beam type and digital wrenches.

 

Before I loosen the wheel nuts and torque them again, I have a common question.

Is it possible that I do not lift the car up and loosen one wheel nut and re-torque it back to the specific torque one at a time?

 

That should be fine.

 

Suggested to recheck after 100 miles to sure none got loose. I always do that.

 

 

I've never done that in my life

If properly tqd wheel lugs are loosening up

You have some real problems you'll probably be aware of

 

Huge range of mileages including 25 (Costco recommended) thru 1000 on the internet.

 

1000 is from your Toyota Corolla Owner's Manual.

 

I will continue to check mine after 100 miles 😉

It's quick and easy.

 

100 ft-lb isn’t going to hurt your wheel I would just leave it unless you have not her better to do. I once had a shop tighten my Camry wheels so tight my impact wouldn’t take them off, wasn‘t a high end impact but still puts out over 150+ lbs of torque. Had to use a cross bar with all my weight and strength pushing down and pulling up. Didn’t affect my rotors or rims at all. The biggest issue would be if you got a flat out on the road and all you have is your factory lug wrench to get the lugs off.

 

For the wheel, although it may compress the area around the hole if wheels are aluminum (steel nuts/washer against aluminum wheel), it is likely to be ok-ish if over torqued...

I would stick to the spec, and certainly wouldn't go double the spec to 150 ft-lbs. I've seen quite a few of these examples. Although studs are relatively easy to replace, I wouldn't want them to break and have loose wheels.

Over torque causes necking and eventually fracture:

 

It is going to remove a lot of stuff from the brake in order to access and replace these wheel studs. It is so scary to touch these EPB nowadays.

My old 2003 Matrix was so easy to replace these wheel studs. I broke 2 of them, all I had to do was removing the caliper and rotor and knock the broken stud out with a hammer.

 

Same process for our cars. Nothing has really changed as far as that goes