In my option, you should be OK if you take it slow. Just remember that relying on only the Highlanders brakes will double the stopping distance. Just an FYI thou, it is probably state law to have trailer brakes on any trailer weighing more the 2000 pounds and I think that is also the recommendation for the Highlander.

 

Yes, it'll stop just fine unloaded. Done it more than a few times when I didn't bother tweaking with my brake controller (was configured for loaded, didn't feel like messing with the gain for an empty load). It'll stop loaded without brakes, just after a long time (I've had it loaded to ~4500lb and on the highway before I realized the wiring on the trailer was damaged, aka no brakes. That was fun when I got cutoff...). For reference tandem 7'x16' v-nose enclosed trailer, same weight unloaded.

Just be careful if you use a WDH. OEM hitches have been known to bend upward if you overbias weight onto the HL.

As for the state law...I don't know anything about that, but Toyota technically says 2klb is max without some sort of brakes (surge or electric), but meh, it's fine.

 

Just be careful if you use a WDH. OEM hitches have been known to bend upward if you overbias weight onto the HL.

You can mitigate the risk by not going overboard on the WDH rating. You definitely should not go above a 600/6000 rating. I've put several thousand miles on our ~3500-lb travel trailer with such a WDH and had no issues. I wouldn't dream of trying it without the trailer brakes though.

 

I defer to Sweeneyp who has much more experience pulling oversized loads. :grin:

 

I agree that the OEM hitch is getting a bum rap. Mine has been holding up quite well with my 3600 pound Fun Finder with a 600 pound weight distribution hitch.

 

True, if its done right, its fine. Just know the OEM hitch isn't rated for it. I've seen 2 cases of it here on the 2nd gen forum and 1 on the 3rd gen. But it was super overbiased. Never seen aftermarket have the issue here, that and they (Reese, sister brands) rate them for WDH's.