Is it possible that your trying to tap into a source that has no bass to replicate? Have u tried a full range speaker instead?

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I think @teksmrt is on to your dilemma. The JBL systems are known to equalize prior to or in the amplifier. By doing so, they're able to get [closer to] the most they can out of their speakers before distortion kicks in. By tayloring the frequencies going to a particular speaker, they can reduce its distortion and increase its output for the frequencies that each speaker actually delivers. I doubt that any of the speaker lines are actually full range.

My guess is that the most likely place you'll find a [closer to] full range signal would be at the front door speakers. It will probably still cut off below ~40Hz. I suggest running a test line to them as your source. Once you confirm that it works, you can then take the time to route the wires.

B.T.W, you don't mention which system you have... there were two JBL systems in the 2012 Camry. Hopefully someone more familiar with your specific system can verify which speaker receives the best signal for a low frequency, speaker level signal tap.

 

I've done a little more googling. First, I didn't realize that there were two JBL systems. I have the 10 speakers in the 8 locations, but I'm not sure if that helps. I thought it'd be the "premium" one since it's the XLE trim.

It appears the rear speaker is a "subwoofer." I could hypothetically run line from the front speakers, but is there a place I could pick up the full range?

I've tried running two taps off the rear speaker and it's still not working. I must be doing something wrong.

 

Not sure where the full range speakers are located in the Camry, but I just installed a powered sub in my Highlander w/JBL. I tapped both the right , and left rear door speakers which are full range, and Ive had no problem. From what you posted, it sounds like you tapped one speaker with two speaker wires. I would think you will have to tap a left, and right full range speaker to make it work properly.

 

I'm going to try this tomorrow. I think this will work.

I simply spliced into the + and - factory speaker wires, and ran my speaker wires to the powered sub. your powered sub should have a left, and right high level input.

This is what I'm doing. I have made sure my wire taps are making contact, continuity is showing on a multimeter.

OK so your powers sub doesn’t have RCA inputs? What make and model is it?

It has RCA inputs, I just don't have outputs on stock camry and I don't have a line out converter (which I might do).

Have you checked your gain/input level adjustment?

What are you using for a turn on wire/source?

Gain's just fine. High level input is my auto turn on.

 

How are you tapping in, with a Line Out Converter?

 

I simply spliced into the + and - factory speaker wires, and ran my speaker wires to the powered sub. your powered sub should have a left, and right high level input.

 

OK so your powers sub doesn’t have RCA inputs? What make and model is it?

 

It is a JBL Basspro sl2. It has both RCA, and high level inputs, but since the stock JBL head unit doesn't have RCA outputs I had to tap into the speakers, and use the high level inputs on the powered sub. Your original post said you were using a high level input cable, so I assumed your sub had those connections. I don't believe it will work to tap your speakers, and connect to RCA on the sub. Some powered subs don't come with a high level input connection. just RCA

 

And yes... A line out converter should allow you to connect to RCA inputs on the powered sub. I just chose to use the speaker level inputs which came with the sub.

 

I see now. I couldn’t find the spec for the line input but some require a minimum level voltage, perhaps the tweeters aren’t putting out enough volts. I would tap into the rear window speakers. I always use a line out converter to tap into the rear window speakers to convert to RCA. Example: scosche loc2sl wiring diagram

 

Have you checked your gain/input level adjustment?

What are you using for a turn on wire/source?

 

Guys, I'm going nuts. I've wired to the wires right as they come out from the amplifier. I'm wired to the left front and right front speakers as shown on this list I've found at pink/purple (11/26) and yellow/pink (15/30). I've attached pictures of almost everything. Multimeter still shows power on battery->sub sub->ground in trunk. Multimeter shows cables through high input are good. What am I doing wrong? (Also, the subwoofer output listed in this photo are the wires I was tapping in the rear). Is there any way to test signal coming through the cables? Again, this sub worked fine when we tried my buddy's corolla which had the same model sub in it. Sorry for the large images.

 

Further info, when using the multimeter on any of the four "prongs" of the plug that goes into the high level input, it shows 236 millivolts. 150mV – 5V Variable Input Level is what's listed on the sub's listing on amazon.

 

Auto sense switch is turned on I assume?

 

I don't think there's a switch for the auto sense on this model. I'm going to feel like an idiot if there is though. RWS12CA

 

Have you tried calling Rockville and asking if you need to do something different due to a JBL system?

 

I haven't called, but I've sent an email. I might just call, that's a good idea.

The external fuse is clear as can be.

 

Have you checked the fuse?

 

Hey everyone, I wanted to give an update. I wired it with low-input and tried a something something and it all worked. I think the 250 mw weren't enough for this sub even though they should be. So it was working for about two hours and then I turned up the volume a little more and everything died. I think I broke the factory amplifier, so I've ordered another one off ebay. Other than making sure I don't turn up the volume too high, what can I do to make sure I don't break it again? Are there resistors (idk what im talking about lol) or something I should be using to protect it?

EDIT: Actually, it doesn't make sense to me that my sub would break the system if it has its own internal amp. Could someone explain why it broke my factory amp to be tapping the rear speaker signal if my sub was powered by its own amp and its own powerline?

EDIT 2: It gave me a b15c3 error code when I looked in the diagnostics. That means that there isn't likely an issue with the amplifier itself right? I just have to find the short? How would you recommend going about doing this?

 

I would start by disconnecting all connections to the new amp to try and start isolating where the short may be.

 

Any progress?

 

I wanted to give an update on what occurred a couple days ago. Long story short, I'm livid. I ordered a replacement amplifier, got it all wired up, and everything was working beautifully. Just to see if it really was a short in the rear speakers that I had found (because the rear speaker pins' resistance to ground was screwed up, normally should be above 10k according to Toyota, everything was above 80k except for the rear speakers, which were 20k and 1.5k). I played the exact same song at the exact same volume (Trees by Imagine Dragons), and at the exact same spot (the very first base drop of the chorus), everything cut out again. Before, I thought it was because I had pulled a cable and caused something to short, but there was no way it happened this time because I was standing outside the vehicle. I took out the amp to test it, and this time, it was the front speaker pins that had screwed up resistances. I'm taking it to a pro shop to get diagnosed, I'm just so frustrated. Anyone have any suggestions before I get it diagnosed by them or buy another replacement amp?

 

Hi everyone,

My set up is different than most as I installed two component 6x9s as my subs because I didn't want to lose trunk space. I cut and spliced the cable to the original 6x9 because that is what is receiving the subwoofer signals. I then routed the splice to a JL audio Loc 22 inverter. This will take the inputs from the speaker wire and output them to RCA jacks to send the audio signals to your amp. Then you can wire them up like regular subs. The Loc-22 is pretty cool as it has an auto-on feature that will automatically turn on your subs when the music starts but you will hear a blip from the sub. I then mounted it all on the plastic back of the fold-down seats. If you are running like a 10" to 12" sub you don't need the original 6x9 so don't feel like you shouldn't splice it. Sorry for the poor grammar and spelling.

 

I'm not quite sure if you meant to post that in quotes, but I didn't say that haha. I appreciate how you got your sub set up, but unfortunately, it's not my sub causing the issue at this point I think, it's the amplifier.