did you try wet sanding it?

if not, try 3000 grit wet/dry

Get some Soap water and dip the paper in that.



3000 grit is for cleaning the top coat for polishing mainly, but it works really good for an application like this too

 

I can't be certain, but I think over time UV light from the sun breaks down the plastic through and through - so sanding the lenses down WILL HELP, but in the long run you will just have to perform the same task again.

Again, I have no proof to back this up - just a theory

 

Back up to WET 1000 grit. Soak the sand paper for 15 minutes or so and keep the area and paper WET throughout the sanding process. Repeat with WET 2000 grit. Then move into an abrasive compound. NEVER heard of anyone using a rubbing compound WITH sandpaper before...

Also, I wish I could have warned you. Shaving off those little stud things on the outside on the lense make it look like poop.

edit: Be sure to CLEAN (soap+water) the lights between sanding stages.



Nope. It's JUST exterior oxidation. He want to sand the outer face of the lense too though.

 

I saw a video about this, all they did was sand it down, and use wax on it. Another alternative is use toothpaste

 

Yeah I think you have to wax the lens as well.....ask iovaykind....he should be able to help you...if im correct his first retrofit encompassed clearing frosted lenses....

 

they sell a "clear coat lens spray" that i used on another car I have...very disappointed in the results - would love to see what the wax looks like

 

Yeah.. I don't recommend doing it but since you already started.. wet sand like other people are telling you.. yours looks better than mine already, just wet sand.. don't listen to people who say spray paint a clear coat on it cause that's what messed mine up. Over a few months though, the lens will yellow..mine did. That actually doesn't look half bad.. you can check out my progress on my cardomain page.. page 5.

 

^^like i said, if you know better.. don't use any sort of clear coat spray on the lens.. it makes all imperfections 10x worse.

 

No clear coat....use wax....

 

ah noobs :lol:

i remember doing this a long time ago. before the depo clears.
the trick is to take your time. you have too many deep scratches in the lense.
you still have some sanding to do then they will be reallt clear.

from where you are now i would go back to 600-800grit until the entire area is uniform from edge to edge.
then use the 1000 and then 1500 then 2000 all wet. you should be fine then. but remember you need it to be uniform.

 

Just did all the steps over again. But with some help from lynch and iovay.
This is how it looks. I also used the dremel with polish add on and used clarifying compound and looks much better. I will redo this process one more time and I should be at 100% Still have enough lens to sand it down some more.

 

Uhhhhh, why dont you just take your time doing each step instead of repeating the steps...? You know how sand paper and abrasives work, right?

 

To be honest no I don't I never sanded anything in my life sorry to say.
But like I said I have enough time. But I guess the reason I go back is because its hard to tell when there parts that need more then other you know.

 

It's okay! We're here to learn. In a nutshell....

Each time you switch grits on sand paper to a higher number, your INCREASING the amount of time it takes to smooth out the material. The lower the grit number, the faster it'll smooth things out. BUT, only until a certain point. That's why you switch to a higher grit. Think of it as making smaller and smaller mountains as you step up the grit numbers. You wouldn't flatten out a mountain of dirt with a shovel, right? You'd use a tractor. The same is true inversely... you wouldn't use a tractor to move a handful of dirt.

The biggest thing... TAKE YOUR TIME. Really, and I really mean this. Because it took me forever in my life to understand how big of a deal it is with things like this.... TAKE YOUR TIME. :lol:

 

Now that you have a smooth lens what will "focus" your beam? Are you putting in some other type of lighting system? If not won't your head lights act like a flashlight with out any focus to them?

 

He's gonna be using projectors, so no problem with that. If this turns out well it'll look great! I never liked seeing the ribs from the reflector of the DEPOs after putting projectors in.

OP, hopefully you'll have more patience than I did :lol::facepalm:

 

Looks like its turning out pretty well. Good luck with the whole process. Cant wait to see them finished.

 

He's gonna be using projectors, so no problem with that.

I guess I missed that part, my apologies

 

Ok now I can back it up...
http://ezinearticles.com/?How-To-Clean-Yellow-Headlights-With-Headlight-Restoration&id=5291962


But, just as Lynch said, patience is key for success with this. The only thing I'm curious about is how to prevent future oxidation - with all this work how could you "seal" off the new surface without impairing vision?

 

^ Automotive wax! You MIGHT be able to use a clear coat paint SPECIFICALLY for plastics. Lamination?

 

I was thinking of doing this and installing bi-xenon projectors. I am not sure, though, if the lens will turn yellow after continuous usage.

 

Call companies like TYC or whoever makes the OEM lenses and see if you can talk to someone about the manufacturing process. If plastics like that are sealed/coated or not.

 

My lens turned yellow after a few months.. so I just bought DEPOs. It'll be worth the money in the end.. old lens will never look new again no matter what you do.