Sport mode (bump it up to 6) >>>>>>>> Drive. Car is 200 times more responsive.

It also likes 89 octane way more than 87 (I have the I4).

Don't bother with cruise control if you're on any small hills whatsoever. It will constantly hunt between 5th and 6th gear.

 

Sport mode (bump it up to 6) >>>>>>>> Drive. Car is 200 times more responsive.
/QUOTE]

In the v6? So bump shifter over to sport then shift up to 6th gear? Is that what your saying? Gas mileage effected?

 

Yes.

I4. The V6 is probably responsive enough that you don't need it to drop gears to gather up speed, but the I4 is lazy in Drive mode.

Don't pay much attention to gas mileage...don't do many consistent drives with the car to compare. It's pretty much just used as a grocery-getter and around-town car; we take the other car on longer trips.

 

Don't bother with cruise control if you're on any small hills whatsoever. It will constantly hunt between 5th and 6th gear.

never noticed anything like that on my car...
even when I'm going up the hill RPM changes pretty easy and no downshifting for sure.
but I've noticed something different.
if you drive very conservative and dont drop your right foot after certain time (I would say 10 miles) transmission start shifting slower and gas pedal feels less responsive.
I've read somewhere that transmission learn the way you drive and adopt to it.
If I'm driving this way my MPG goes up at least 2-3 MPG in the city and 5-6 on HWY.
if you wanna go back to normal mode, just floor it couple times and shifting would switch back to "alive" mode.

 

One thing I've learned. The car has a ton of blind spots


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One thing I've learned. The car has a ton of blind spots


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And how to avoid that:

http://www.caranddriver.com/features/how-to-adjust-your-mirrors-to-avoid-blind-spots

 

Best advice is to not look at your car too much. You will start to see scratches and dents in places you won't believe

 

best advice is to not look at your car too much. You will start to see scratches and dents in places you won't believe

+1000

 

All cars should have mirrors like my old Silverado did. You could see EVERYTHING.

 

I'm always adjusting the Mirrors. I think having the power seats and driver side mirror scream trouble for me. The power seat is too slow and when I gotta change the mirrors position the seat is changed as well.


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When you move the shifter to "S" mode, it will automatically drop down to gear 4. Shift that back up to 6 on the dash using the manumatic feature, or the paddle shifters on the SE. This will let it use all the gears in the transmission, but maintain better throttle response.

Experiment around with different grades of gas. We always thought that the I4 lagged in town a bit compared to the old V6. The V6 ran terrible on regular gas, so I put in a tank of premium, and the I4 accelerated much more smoothly. She's since stepped down to midgrade, and it does fine on that too.

 

When you move the shifter to "S" mode, it will automatically drop down to gear 4. Shift that back up to 6 on the dash using the manumatic feature, or the paddle shifters on the SE. This will let it use all the gears in the transmission, but maintain better throttle response.

Experiment around with different grades of gas. We always thought that the I4 lagged in town a bit compared to the old V6. The V6 ran terrible on regular gas, so I put in a tank of premium, and the I4 accelerated much more smoothly. She's since stepped down to midgrade, and it does fine on that too.

Oh i see, I'm going to do that and also try the premium gas and see the difference. Thanks for the info!!

 

Are you sure putting the car in "S" mode changes anything? I have heard this before, but I'm not convinced it changes anything at all?
Anyone have documentation showing that "S" mode does anything?

 

I've noticed S mode will shift closer to the redline than D mode if you put the pedal to the floor.

 

Yep. The transmission is less "busy" around 2500-3000 RPM too and just accelerates more smoothly without all the torque converter lock/unlock nonsense. It is also MUCH more willing to drop gears without having to floor it. It's significant enough of a difference for even a girl that doesn't know anything about cars to notice the difference.

I don't redline mine much, so can't comment on that.


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Paddle shifters have much quicker response (like a half of second) compared to manually shifting automatic 2007 Scion tC. And once you do it: the acceleration doesn't seem to wanna go back to driving friendly fuel ways until you switch off the motor.

You need a Apple USB cable to connect your iPhone into the navigation. (took me good four days to figure that one out. :facepalm: My salesperson never mention that one at taking delivery time...Lucky for me Entune site shows a picture of guy connecting a iphone and you see the USB cable connected.

 

What do U plug your iPhone in for? Navigation?

 

Did anyone notice that when your in "D" you can use the paddle shifter on the SE to go down to lower gears and then back up to "D"? I think that is awesome.

 

Yep! Great for engine braking down hills in the mountains!

 

Today, I learned that driving on the freeway with your rear windows rolled down and your front two fully rolled up results in an insane vibration within of the car.
However, if you roll the front down the vibration goes away


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Today, I learned that driving on the freeway with your rear windows rolled down and your front two fully rolled up results in an insane vibration within of the car.
However, if you roll the front down the vibration goes away

umm....every vehicle is like that.

 

If Premium Fuel for Camrys is Snake Oil Medicine...

...so be it. Fewer BTUs (less available energy) and higher cost aside, if a driver feels that their car idles smoother and responds to throttle inputs with greater aplomb, then maybe it does in their reality. When realities become subjective, they may lead to arguments between drivers swearing that their cars simply run better with premium and naysayers who quote technical info as gospel. The reality is that if snake oil medicine makes people feel better, then it becomes gospel, too, and if we drive any vehicle for enjoyment as much as transportation, the placebo effect we get from pumping premium at least does no harm...the hallmark of any good placebo!

 

I really don't see the point in using higher octane in the 4 banger. If its not peppy enough maybe the v6 shoulda been you choice... With the minimal diff in mpgs between the two engines acording to CR, you would probably be paying more for gas in the long run with higher octane in the 4banger compare to lower octane in the v6.. And you still would be driving the 170ish hp car compared to the 268 hp car... So in my opinion if you plan on higher octane just buy a v6 and use the cheap gas and be done with it lol.. Just my 2 cents.. I really don't know much about different octanes but I know I only use what my vehicle calls for...

 

Eh, to each his own. That seems to be the general mentality of most Camry owners. "I put in what it says in the booK". Switched to 89/91 in warmer temperatures (~70), and it made a HUGE difference. Why? Knock. The I4 is constantly adjusting timing on 87 octane; much less so on higher octanes.

I had a post here a while back with some graphs of the knock retard on the Camry I4 engine. All tests were done using Shell gasoline grades.
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/3...com/forum/310-7th-generation-2012/429483-anyone-ever-used-premium-their-i4.html
^Start at the bottom of the post.

TL : DR version: It knocks less on 89 and 93 octane = smoother power. May not notice in cold weather because the tendency to knock is greatly reduced.

V6 didn't make financial sense. Plus, would I NEED 268 HP in a mid-size car? Nah. I4's plenty quick enough. It's just lazy. Plus, the V6 calls for 91 octane.

 

Are you sure about that on the v6? Everywhere I read says 87 octane for the v6..

 

Being -5 degrees this morning here in Wisconsin.....

The outside temperature gauge reader seems to not want to be 100% correct in those freeze temps! Kept saying -2 during my drive home when I knew it was colder than -2! Then on the other hand: I kind of don't blame it one bit! lol

But I will tell you guys couple of points for freezing temps on a '12 Camry: that 2.5L motor turned over within snap of finger when I went to warm it up. And! the heat was blazing hot even when the motor was still cold after 20 minute warming up period.

Quite happy with my new "Toy."

 

Being -5 degrees this morning here in Wisconsin.....

The outside temperature gauge reader seems to not want to be 100% correct in those freeze temps! Kept saying -2 during my drive home when I knew it was colder than -2! Then on the other hand: I kind of don't blame it one bit! lol

Does your engine seem to hate cold starts as much as ours does? It was 10 here this morning, with a wind chill of -2. Started fine, but the Camry was very, very grumpy and lethargic once it moved off.

I've noticed my Japanese cars seem to hate the cold. Used to have a carbureted Accord that wouldn't even start when it was that cold - and my mom's 2007 is cranky too in cold temps (and TERRIBLE in snow)

 

high density weather stripping stopped the rattle from the rear break light, car turns on a dime, under high acceleration had to dodge a car pulling into traffic. agreed no performance difference between 91 and 87 octane but I still ran a tank of 91 every other month to clean up the build up in the engine.

 

high density weather stripping stopped the rattle from the rear break light, car turns on a dime, under high acceleration had to dodge a car pulling into traffic. agreed no performance difference between 91 and 87 octane but I still ran a tank of 91 every other month to clean up the build up in the engine.

Octane has nothing to do with cleaning out the engine. Additives (detergents) are put in the gas to perform this task, regardless of octane.

If your vehicle requires high octane, you can have it tuned to accept low octane.

Rule of thumb - owners manual.

 

Again freezing temps this AM: car started perfectly. Maybe I just have luck with Toyota cars (knock on wood) during winter months. Thought it drives really good on ice & snow covered streets.

-----------------------------------
Anyone ever did the "Purple power" oil change yet on theirs? Royal Purple or even used Amsoil?


I'm probably will switch to one of them when I do my DIY OCs. I always used Denso OEM oil filters and Royal Purple when I had the old tC. Once I hit the 120k mileage mark; I switched 5w-20 to 5w-30 when I used RP since 5w-20 was very hard to find in part stores.

 

My late '03 SE I4 started first time every time for 9 years regardless of the temp and it get's pretty cold here in Chicago. So far my new '12 SE I4 is just as reliable (knock on wood!).

 

I just found out oil filters in 2.5 Camry are the "pain in the bum" (since its way messier to do) Cartridge oil filter system....:disappoin


Doesn't Toyota know its still just as easy to DIY oil changes to avoid dealer service?!?!?!? Buy the one time oil filter tool for 9 bucks... Well, its looks like I'm buying one soon to avoid the typical "Please rip me off for $450 30k maintenance service-AKA BS oil change"



I have six Denso "F1" oil filters sitting in my garage for the past 2.4L motors. What the hell am I going to do with them now?!?!?!??!

 

if you think there is one ignition timing map solely for 87 octane you're sadly mistaken.

 

I will stick with 87.. My v6 runs like a champ on 87 and I feel no reason to go up to higher octanes.. Guess I will be a "by the book" guy.. Except for the 10 k oil changes.. Doubt I will go by that.. Seems so long.....

 

When I Pump 91 Octane Fuel Into My I-4...