Compare Non-Hybrid Highlander to the Hybrid Highlander:

Non-Hybrid
Star Safety System™ — includes Enhanced Vehicle Stability Control (VSC), Traction Control (TRAC),
Anti-lock Brake System (ABS), Electronic Brake-force Distribution (EBD), Brake Assist (BA) and
Smart Stop Technology® (SST)

Hybrid
Star Safety System™ — includes Electronically Controlled Braking (ECB), Vehicle Dynamics Integrated Management (VDIM), Enhanced Vehicle Stability Control (VSC), Traction Control (TRAC), Anti-lock Brake System (ABS), Electronic Brake-force Distribution (EBD), Brake Assist (BA) and Smart Stop Technology® (SST)

The Hybrid has the Electronically Controlled Braking system which is basically a "Brake-By-Wire" system:

Electronically controlled brake (ECB) developed by Toyota Motor Corporation initially for its hybrid and Lexus models, is the world's first production brake-by-wire braking system. The ECB is an integral part of the company's Vehicle Dynamics Integrated Management stability control system, by allowing for automatic brake adjustments, which work in conjunction with variable gear-ratio electric power steering systems. (Wikipedia)

So it would appear that just stepping on the brake pedal to bleed fluid won't work as there are multiple inputs used to control brake fluid pressure to each wheel and that would require a dedicated Toyota computer.

 

I just replaced a frozen right rear brake caliper on a 2006 Highlander Hybrid. I went to bleed the brakes using the old open bleeder/push down brake pedal & hold/close bleeder/release brake pedal/repeat sequence.

FWIW...recall reading sometime ago about bleeding brakes & way hybrids done caught my attention. Not simple like u wanna do. Didn't see any work around cause way brake system designed & specific steps one has to follow. Might end up going to dealer or indie shop with know how? Good luck on outcome.

 

Solution

lloyd123,

Thanks for all the info. I called up a local independent shop that works on Toyotas and Hondas. They said they have the Toyota Techstream software and interface cable but DON'T USE IT FOR BLEEDING BRAKES!! They do it the old fashioned way. So I tried it again and got a little more fluid out of it. The brakes have been working fine ever since. I've never had so little fluid get purged out. I don't understand it, but I'm not going to dig any further.

 

I called up a local independent shop that works on Toyotas and Hondas. They said they have the Toyota Techstream software and interface cable but DON'T USE IT FOR BLEEDING BRAKES!! They do it the old fashioned way. So I tried it again and got a little more fluid out of it. The brakes have been working fine ever since. I've never had so little fluid get purged out. I don't understand it, but I'm not going to dig any further.

Tks for update. Your adding small amount fluid to make up for small amount of OLD fluid u pumped out. Also been a DIY installing new brakes. But after install, I kept bleeding, adding new fluid until ALL fluid was new. Sounds like most of brake fluid in yours could be really OLD? Anyhow, your ok now & hopefully continues.

 

You, or someone else, will f up your brake system and cause costly repairs if not bled with Techstream. I spoke. It's $150 dealer well spent. It's about page long if not longer, procedure, to do this and that. I had it posted here once.
That said, DAYW and DAYOR.

 

And PLEASE, don't quote me.

 

You, or someone else, will f up your brake system and cause costly repairs if not bled with Techstream. I spoke. It's $150 dealer well spent. It's about page long if not longer, procedure, to do this and that. I had it posted here once.
That said, DAYW and DAYOR.

Bought a two day subscription to TIS and discovered that there is a Toyota sanctioned method to replace the brake fluid not using a Techstream. I did notice that this procedure was listed for replacing the brake fluid but there was also a pdf for bleeding the brake system which only listed using a Techstream. Could be if the air trapped in the brake line is on the master cylinder end then Techstream would be the only way to eliminate (?). Using the non Techstream method looks like it might be still easier to pay a dealer to do as I would caution anyone to be careful when dealing with their brakes if they aren't 100% sure of what they're doing.

 

Bought a two day subscription to TIS and discovered that there is a Toyota sanctioned method to replace the brake fluid not using a Techstream. I did notice that this procedure was listed for replacing the brake fluid but there was also a pdf for bleeding the brake system which only listed using a Techstream.

PDFs specify for 2014-2018 HV model. I would assume same procedure for 1st Gen HV, but would like confirmation. Can anybody lend insight?

 

Master has no connection to brakes. Trace lines that go from it. See, what I mean? You have brake by wire cars. It is safest way to use Techstream - or to pay dealer and that is money WELL spent. Now, let me snoop around and try to find non TIS bleeding procedure, I have it somewhere here in Hybrids section.

 

Yes, I think, it's same PDF posted before here:

DIY Brake Pad/Rotor Replacement and Bleeding for Current...

I know it's too early but has anyone looked into servicing the 2020 Highlander hybrid brake system? I typically do my own brake servicing, replacement and system bleed. Only experience I've had is with the conventional, older generation Honda brakes which is relatively straightforward to...

www.toyotanation.com

 

I own an '06 highlander hybrid ltd 145k. A few years ago replaced front and rear brake pads and rotors, but never flushed the brake fluid and never had any warning lights come on after working on the brakes. While preparing for a brake flush (first time since the vehicle was new in '06) I also found the rear calipers rusted and slide pins frozen. Decided to install new OEM rear calipers as well as flush the brake fluid for all 4 wheels. Found instruction video for flushing brakes on hybrids as well as this thread which is mostly commenters recommending to take the vehicle to a dealer. Decided I'd try the manual method and hopefully would not need toyota tech-stream and the local toyota dealer to re-do or fix the job. The job was successful and following are some notes for others they may want to attempt a similar brake repair. The most import part is to disconnect the 12v battery during the entire process. Used a Mytivac vacuum pump to pull new brake fluid from the brake fluid reservoir. Also replaced the rear calipers prior to the flush. The brake flush or caliper change was recommended to not be done without the tech-stream. After the job was complete the brakes were essentially manual, no abs, no traction or sway control with all of the associated dash warning lights indicating something is wrong. At that point I was thinking I should have gone to the dealer to start with. Not wanting to go to dealer I wanted to see what codes were causing the warning lights. Went to O'rielly's, Advance Auto and Autozone to try to read and clear the codes and only Autozone's proprietary obdII scan tool could read and clear the codes. Took 5 minutes and once the codes were cleared the warning lights were gone and all the brake, traction and sway control was back to normal. Now that I know this brake flush works without the tech-stream and the codes can be cleared by Autozone I'd definitely do the job again. Note: I didn't touch ABS system.

 

I bleed all 4 brakes on my 2006 Toyota Highlander Hybrid two weeks ago. I read this thread 5 years ago and got scared so skipped bleeding my brakes but after watching the Car Care Nut's video on bleeding a Toyota Hybrid I gave it a shot. Skip ahead to 11:03 to understand why I took his advice to disconnect my battery.

I have an air compressor and lots of vehicles so I used my Capri Tools vacuum brake bleeder. My only snag was when I got to the front passenger side and no fluid came out the nipple. I even completely removed the bleed nipple and still not a single drop of fluid dribbled out. The internal nipple pathway was clean, so I screwed the bleed nipple back in, called my wife and had her pump the brake the old-fashioned way. After a couple pumps some jam must had released because brake fluid shot out the bleed nipple. I then finished off with a vacuum bleed. I'll note that braking has always been nice and even so I don't know if the piston was seized or a ball of coagulated brake fluid blocked the line, but I assume it can't be a seized piston because a vacuum bleed would still pull fluid out. We purchased this car in 2015 so not sure if this is the first brake fluid change in 17 years, however several years ago I did use a turkey baster to refresh just the master cylinder fluid. The fluid that came out of the brake lines wasn't that bad looking. I guess with regen braking the brake pads are hardly ever activated. At 193k miles I'm still on my original brake pads so when I get the time I'll grease the slide pins but keep the original pads.