Maybe the windshield rubber? I had almost the same issue but it was the rubber stripping around the front windshield that would howl whilst driving on the freeway

 

Nope, checked it right now.

 

Any check engine lights?

Lots of cars' engines make whining sounds at certain speeds. Practically ever car I've been in with a 4 banger will make some kind of whining sound in top gear at medium-low speeds where the road/wind noise doesn't down it out, usually when the gas pedal is being pressed lightly. If it's soft, I wouldn't worry about it.

 

it is happening at low gear, not high gear and usually at low speed. after today i changed oil to synthetic 0W20, the sound is more or less everytime now as i press on gas.

 

So the sound pitch is relative to engine rpm (from low note gradually to high note), and the harder you accelerate, the louder it is?

Do you hear it when revving it up a bit in park or neutral? Was your power steering pump and/or rack and pinion replaced, and why?

Can you get a sound clip?

 

Question 1 : Yes
Question 2 : Sometimes. But here's the thing : the decibel and occurrence increased as of yesterday, post change of oil!
Question 3 : P.steering pump : No, Rack & Pinion replaced: No

Sound clip : Will try .. today. Very difficult to capture...

 

Some 2003~2008 Toyota Corolla vehicles equipped with the 1ZZ-FE engine and an automatic transaxle (ATM) may exhibit a “whistle” or “hoot” noise under light acceleration at 35 mph to 40 mph with the transaxle at normal operating temperature. ATM cooler lines have been modified to reduce this condition on customer complaint vehicles.

http://www.autoserviceprofessional.com/article/92202/toyota-corolla-musical-transmission

 

Some 2003-2008 Toyota Corolla vehicles equipped with the 1ZZ-FE engine and an automatic transaxle (ATM) may exhibit a “whistle” or “hoot” noise under light acceleration at 35 mph to 40 mph with the transaxle at normal operating temperature. ATM cooler lines have been modified to reduce this condition on customer complaint vehicles.

http://www.autoserviceprofessional.com/article/92202/toyota-corolla-musical-transmission

Excellent stuff, helps. The TSB seems to be till 2008 which will include my '07 too ? Would you have the TSB # by any chance?

 

That TSB only applies up until 2006.

It's probably normal transmission whine. Take a video of it making the noise.

 

TSB number is TC012-05 and only applies until 2006.

 

So - what are my options here? Dealer will blatantly refuse? Check this out: http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/sitemap/t-71802.html Very accurately it describes the problem I have.

It seems there's a fallout into the 2007 models too at least for some... Mine is towards the beginning of 2007. Also, thanks to the link it seems only some hoses need to be replaced. How should I proceed explaining this to the dealer. If absolute no, can this be a possible DIY?

 

It's possible that your 2007 was built with left over parts however that's highly unlikely.

But going with it was, the dealer will likely have no problem performing the work.

The replacement is not of the hoses but of the metal cooler lines that come out of the transmission and connect the hoses to the transmission and radiator.

This can be extremely difficult to replace if your car has rust on those fittings at the transmission. If you don't feel comfortable just go to the dealer with the TSB number and ask them to perform the repair. It may fix the issue or it may not. Hopefully (for repair sake) that is the issue.

 

Oh ok, you meant the power steering 'fluid' was replaced.

You can look down in front of engine to see which oil cooler lines you already have, and compare to the revised ones on TSB pics. They run across just in front of engine oil dipstick tube.

I can't find the TSB #.

 

I'm sorry Invader, I am new to all of this. What I will do is take a photo and publish it. That way I guess the "Gurus" can better guide me...

 

Service Bulletin Number : 01205

Date of Bulletin : SEP 01, 2005

NHTSA Item Number : 10017613

 

From radiator

From AT/Engine block:

 

From radiator

You evidently do have the original cooler lines, and not the revised quieter ones.

Parts required:

HOSE, OIL COOLER INLET P/N 32941-12360

HOSE, OIL COOLER OUTLET P/N 32942-12140

CLAMP, FLEXIBLE HOSE NO. 1 P/N 32928-12040

Show a print of the TSB procedure to whoever performs the operation.

http://www.autoserviceprofessional.com/article/92202/toyota-corolla-musical-transmission

 

I am trying to look at the drawing and compare with the photos but somehow I am missing this. Are these the updated coolant tubes or are they of the older generation?

 

Where can the TSB be found?

 

Saga - this thread has it, look above.

 

Yes, you do have the original cooler lines, and not the revised quieter lines.

Parts required:

HOSE, OIL COOLER INLET P/N 32941-12360

HOSE, OIL COOLER OUTLET P/N 32942-12140

CLAMP, FLEXIBLE HOSE NO. 1 P/N 32928-12040

Show a print of TSB procedure to whoever performs the operation.

http://www.autoserviceprofessional.com/article/92202/toyota-corolla-musical-transmission

 

Wondering if my car's 2007 and having 91k miles will the dealer charge me? If they attempt likewise what should be my strategy to counter it? Finally, as hardtop highlighted rust can be difficult. So, looking at the pictures is it something I should rather live with than having the dealer fix it only to suffer more moving forward?

 

Invader - thank you very much. Against your 1st. response I had replied but I guess you edited/removed and added an even better response. Much appreciated.

1. At dealership, will they be charging me?
2. It could be that they refuse saying TSB is up to 2006, etc. How best to counter this?
3. Referring to Hardtop's response and few others in this forum, would you recommend proceeding to change considering the rust issues? (Maybe you can take a look at the pics and advice?)
4. I was thinking to tell dealership and request for their most experienced technician, who should do this to reduce the risk of damage to AT/engine when removing the cooler lines. Any comments, much appreciated.
5. Should I, before going to dealership call Toyota and inquire as to why my 2007 model has older coolant lines ? Is there any number (US/Can) and will it help in anyways?
6. Finally, I intend to do a AT flush using DIY process outlined here. Should I wait for the TSB to be resolved prior to doing it? OR, should I request dealership to do it as it seems from the TSB, the ATF should be topped/replaced?

 

They wouln't charge anything only if your noise complaint is confirmed, and if your Corolla is still under warranty.
Show a print of TSB along with your original cooler lines on your Corolla.
It's a pretty straighforward job, easily done with proper tools.
Calling would be a waste of time... The proof is under your hood and on TSB. Your noise complaint may be confirmed by test drive.
No real benefit in having them do the flush at the same time. You'd still have to pay them for labor.

 

I am not sure what you are looking at but you definitely appear to have the updated lines.

The second pictures shows the right side. You can see the straight bolted section and the downward swoop.

As stated before the TSB only applied to 2006 and was never updated meaning:

1. The cooler lines fixed the problem.
2. Newer cars got the correct lines.

It's extremely rare for a new car to get non superseded parts.

 

I am not sure what you are looking at but you definitely appear to have the updated lines.

The second pictures shows the right side. You can see the straight bolted section and the downward swoop.

As stated before the TSB only applied to 2006 and was never updated meaning:

1. The cooler lines fixed the problem.
2. Newer cars got the correct lines.

It's extremely rare for a new car to get non superseded parts.

No, you are definitely wrong... On the second diagram, the revised lines which don't have the metal tubing section, are shown connected to the metal tubing that are clamped to the tranny. bminada has the original lines that have a short rubber hose section before the metal tubing to the radiator, as shown in the first diagram not connected to the metal tubing on tranny that is left untouched.... The revised lines are rubber hose all the way from the metal tubing clamped on tranny, down to the radiator. TSB also shows clamp used to secure rubber lines to rad base. bminada obviously has metal tubing section to radiator.
Take your time and study it well before disputing again.

 

Well seeing as my car's well out of warranty being double digits in age, would it make more sense to attempt this upgrade work myself as opposed to going to the dealer?

 

Only you can determine if you're able and willing to do it... You just need a metric flare nut wrench. I don't know what size as I fortunately don't have an automatic.

http://www.mechanicstoolsandbits.co...ndbits.com/tools-piece-metric-flex-flare-nut-wrench-set-tools-81911-p-4926.html

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ac...sories/Great-Neck-Metric-flare-nut-wrench-set/_/N-263u?itemIdentifier=4264_0_0_

http://www.princessauto.com/pal/product/8259491/Sets/7-pc-Metric-Flare-Nut-Wrench-Set

http://www.harborfreight.com/7-piece-3-8-eighth-inch-crowfoot-metric-wrench-set-94427.html

 

I guess I shouldn't have phrased my question the way I did, but I get your point. As a follow-up, will the dealer really only perform a TSB for no charge if the vehicle is under warranty? At this point even an 08 is going to be out of warranty unless someone bought one that extended out to 7 years. Kind of a bummer if that's the case, as I'd have liked to get this addressed, but not in the mood to have the dealer try to stuff a ton of labor charge down my throat for something they know is a problem with a company-provided fix.

 

SaGa - looks like we're out of luck. Dealer confirmed me I'll be charged since my car (2007) is out of warranty. I agree to everything you're saying regarding TSB, manufacturer defect, etc., etc and I'm sure this thread would have been beaten to death in this forum and elsewhere but it is, what it is, what can I say?

Coming back to DIY, not sure how capable you're ; but I wouldn't dare it. Reason being : the rusted nuts, parts, etc are a bitch to take off and any damage there could severely jeopardize the AT/engine. What I would recommend is a very good mechanic who has worked in Toyota. The diagrams - "invader" provided are great but requires a bit of knowledge of technical drawing to understand, it's not night & day simple!

I think, I might have to bite the bullet here and take it to the dealer. At the very least, want to know how much it'll take.

 

WTF!!! : Dealer, here in NJ quoted a price of $800 excluding parts. Also, in terms of parts how the heck do I find them? I checked RockAuto and inputting the full number gives me zilch!

 

Labour should be no more than an hour.

http://www.toyomotorparts.com/parts/toyota-32941-12360_hose-oil-cooler-inl.html

http://www.toyomotorparts.com/parts/toyota-32942-12140_hose-oil-cooler-out.html

http://www.toyomotorparts.com/parts/toyota-32928-12040_clamp-flexible-hose.html

 

Thanks, got it.

Was thinking of spraying some PB Blaster tonight around the joints, then it'll be easier for the technicians and less chance of damage. What say?

 

Good plan... It should be mostly just some surface oxidation and they likely won't be too seized up, but it's always good to prepare and improve the chances of having the job done well and without snags.