Drill baby, Drill!

Drill off the head of the bolt then remove the other fasteners and lift the head off. After removing the head, you can either go at it with set of vice grips, or cut the stud flush and try to get two nuts on it and turn the lower nut....

 

:thanks:

Drill baby, Drill!

Drill off the head of the bolt then remove the other fasteners and lift the head off. After removing the head, you can either go at it with set of vice grips, or cut the stud flush and try to get two nuts on it and turn the lower nut....

Great advice Does it work for other years?:clap:

 

Thanks KarlH. I've never drilled out a bolt before. Got to do some home work. But, those things are in there TIGHT so I hope I can get it out. Do you have a preferred method to do this with head bolts?

 

Thanks KarlH. But, I'm not exactly sure how to drill it out. I mean, without damaging the head. It sounds tricky. Can you give me any details on how to do this? Sounds like I'll need a very large bit.

Start with a small bit, and get bigger. I have a snap on left handed drill bit set for getting out broken bolts. Sometimes you get lucky and they bite and the bolt removes, other times they don't. With the torque of the headbolts I would say that it would be unlikely the bolt would start turning.

That being said, you don't need left handed ones to do this job. But I recommend Cobalt ones for doing one of these bolts.

It is easier said than done to do this.... Plan on spending a few hours doing this.

Start small and move up sizes, You want to keep drilling to get metal to come up. Once you can get no more, switch to another larger bit. Once you have used your largest bit the head will take, start over again with small bits and move up in sizes..

When you get down to the bottom of the head where the stem attaches then the head may be knocked loose or come off.

Try to drill as on center as possible.

I use Snap on because if I bust a bit, they will replace it for free.

It is absolutely no fun to do and Will take time...

Sorry, this stuff happens... Hope you don't break any more....

Cheers

 

KarlH, thanks for that.

It turns out that I stripped it (and maybe another one, too) because of an error in the Haynes Manual. It says quote, "Using a 10mm hex-head socket bit....loosen the cylinder bolts.." Hex means 6 sided does it not? So, that's what I used. I should have cleaned all the oil off the old bolts and I would have seen that it was not a hex. But, I went with the manual and now one of them is stripped. Crap. :headbang:

 

Is it possible to weld a nut to it, or even a socket, and then get it?

 

Crank a vice grips on it. You have to replace the bolts anyways. Vice grips can dig in, maybe get a grip. Think about where your going to "bite" the bolt first, in a way that allows you to crank on it. Because you only get a couple of chances.

 

Before you do that, have you tried hammering a socket onto it? It only needs to work once ;-)

 

Good idea. I'll give it a shot tomorrow. I had a welder come out today. He couldn't get it off. He's gonna come back tomorrow and drill it out for me. But, I'll try the socket trick if I can get it in there. Check out the pic. Not much room.


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After about 4 hours of welding, torching and chiseling we got it off. Now I've got one more misbehaving bolt. The torx bolt that connects the rear side of the timing chain cover to the head will NOT come off. The torx part on the end stripped out like plastic when I first tried to get it off. I tried the two nut method but the inside nut just pushed the outer one right off the threads of the bolt. I then drilled a small hole through the nut AND bolt with the idea of putting a nail through both of them. I tried it with several nails, but the nut just chopped them off. I think the only solution is to drill it out with a right angle drill. The space it tight and the AC lines run right by it. I could hack saw the bolt shorter to make room for a drill to get in there -- maybe. Is there any idea anyone could give me to get it off?Click the image for larger view.

 

You can use this:

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-stud-remover/p-00904458000P

this:

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_...00P?vName=Tools&cName=Mechanics&AutoTools&sName=Automotive Specialty Toolsmv=rr

or use 3, 4 or as many nuts as possible on the threads and try to unbolt it using the nut closest to the engine.

 

Thanks KarlH! I think that first one may do the trick. I'll look into buying it.

 

What year is your car?

I have pulled the front cover on a 1ZZFE and if you are to the stud that sticks out of the head for the belt tensioner to go on, it does not have to be removed. If I remember correct it is actually part of the cover.

I had to pull the cover on my BIL Corollas 1ZZFE after his wife went 16K on no oil change with an oil burner. The engine I got came from a wrecked car and it had a cracked front cover near the water pump. I swapped the whole thing out in about an hour and a half or so and did not touch that stud.

 

Really??? Ok, well, Bennie said to take it off in his DIY Oil Consumption Fix thread. I was just following his directions. I've got everything else off but the head won't budge. Any ideas how to get it loose?

 

What year is it?

Are you sure nothing else is holding it on?

 

2000. Something else could be holding on to it, but I just re-checked Bennie's thread and he says to take it off. The head could just be stuck on, though. If that were the ONLY bolt holding on to it, it seems there would be at least a little wiggle or something, but nothing. Won't budge at all.

 

When removing the head but NOT the timing cover, it has to come out. Have you tried just putting a vise grip straight on it? Clamp the CRAP out of it and it should break it free. It sounds like you will have to be replacing it anyways.

Edit: The most commonly missed bolt is the bolt that holds the exhaust manifold to the block. You can get to it (and see it) from the passanger side wheel well with a long extension. Make sure you got that one!

 

Thanks Bennie. We'll do. And Hardtope72, I'm doing it Bennie's way of leaving that in. I may end up taking it out anyway, though, as I have some mystery leaks that could be coming from in there. Thanks everyone for all you advice. :thanks:

 

Oh you aren't removing the front cover I see. That makes sense.

I can say maybe try a vise grip and see if can replace the stud with a bolt or another stud worst case.

Or spend the extra 2 hours or so and reseal the front cover while you are at it. It really doesn't hurt.

 

you should follow the instructions in Bennie's DIY Oil consumption fix thread which is stickied. It would have saved you the headache

 

That's what I did. Oh, unless you're talking about the hex nut. Yeh, dumbass mistake, I admit. But, that's what the Haynes Manual said to use.

 

To each their own. If I was going to rebuild an engine I would seal the cover. It's easy enough to do while the engine is in.

 

Whoa!! Take a look at my dirty engine.

Hey peeps. I'm in the midst of doing Bennie's Oil Consumption fix and just pulled the head tonight. It's a 2000 VE with 155k and leaks oil badly and I think has the piston ring issue, too. I just clogged up another cat that lasted only about 10k. Take a look and you'll see why.


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The gasket was soaked on both side nearly everywhere.

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Check out the puddles of oil on pistons 1 and 2.

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Have you guys ever seen so much leaking around a gasket? What do you make of this? I'm gonna check, but I wonder if the head is badly warped.

 

That looks worse than a 400K mile 3TC I took apart before.

Looks like someone didn't take care of it.

BTW I am going to merge your threads as a rebuild thread.

 

And your valve cover gasket was leaking too...all your plugs were sitting in a puddle of oil.

 

Actually no. Well, the outside perimeter of the valve gasket was good and dry. There was a little bit of leakage to the plugs though, but not much. I had actually changed it myself last year thinking that it might be a source of the leaks. But, the previous gasket was clean, too. Unless you mean the spark plug tips were sitting in oil in the chamber. That might be true I guess.

Come to think of it, it's possible that some of the oil got on there when I was trying to pull it off. The little bolt inside the timing cover was hanging on and I didn't realize it for a while. So, it did get wiggle around for half and hour before I figure out what was hanging on to it. However, there has always been LOTS of oil leaking behind cylinder #1 forever. The power steering pump is caked with old oil. I'll get some pics of that, too.

So, do you guys think I'll have to replace all the valves, or just the exhaust ones?

 

Those plugs tell you all you need to know about where all the oil was going. Haven't heard about any HG's going in these years, maybe it got wet during dis-assembly, or maybe you have really good instincts catching a HG just before it failed. Keep the pics coming, lets see those oil returns!

 

What is "HG"?

 

Hummarstra, do you have any pics of the top of the head? That will tell the story on maintenance. The plugs and valves look like the typical oil burner. Glad to see you got the head off!!

I gotta get going on my honing vid!

edit: I can't see anything from the pics but these things are not know for head gasket issues.

 

Got the pistons out. Did a little water test by turning them upside down and pouring some water in them. Guess what? Almost all oil return holes are NOT clogged. There was only one hole completely clogged on piston 1. I also discovered that the oil control valve is cracked apart and busted. I really need everyone's help on this. I have no idea how that could have been effecting the performance of the engine. I took pics of the upper rod bearings and also close ups around the timing chain cover/head gasket mating areas as there is a lot of oil there.

I have a few questions:

1) Could the engine still have been burning oil even if the oil holes were not clogged?

2)Would worn out pistons alone account for this?

3)Also, is there any way to tell if the old rings were worn out by looking at them? Unfortunately, I didn't get pics of them before taking the old rings off.

Pics follow.

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Rod bearing piston #2

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Bearing piston #3

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water test

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Got the pistons out. Did a little water test by turning them upside down and pouring some water in them. Guess what? Almost all oil return holes are NOT clogged. There was only one hole completely clogged on piston 1. I also discovered that the oil control valve is cracked apart and busted. I really need everyone's help on this. I have no idea how that could have been effecting the performance of the engine. I took pics of the upper rod bearings and also close ups around the timing chain cover/head gasket mating areas as there is a lot of oil there.

I have a few questions:

1) Could the engine still have been burning oil even if the oil holes were not clogged?

2)Would worn out pistons alone account for this?

3)Also, is there any way to tell if the old rings were worn out by looking at them? Unfortunately, I didn't get pics of them before taking the old rings off.

1) YES! It was very clear from the pictures of the head and spark plugs that it was burning oil. Just because the holes are not all 100% clogged does not mean it's not burning oil. My first Prizm was burning a qt. every 100 miles right at the end before I fixed it but my current one was only at a qt. every 500 miles or so. If the holes are 50% clogged that's a major issue. Heck, if they are any % clogged that's an issue. You probably won't find 2 of these things exactly the same on tear down but if the are buring oil....you know what needs to be done.

2) Technically the piston skirts do make contact with the cylinder walls but I would mostly call the piston a non-contact part that doesn't WEAR out. In a typical rebuild you replace them because they do have a life expectency and will get weaker over time. I don't think they have anything to do with your problems.

3) I don't think I've run in to worn out rings on these cars. They last a very long time. When I replace them it's not because of wear so much as the fact that if you remove the piston and the old rings from it, you should install new rings and hone the cylinders. Obviously you have to remove them to fix the oil burning problem so you just install new ones.

4) bearings look GREAT!

5) I'm taking a guess at this, did you leave the oil control valve in when you removed the head bolts? If so, that's when it broke. You cannot remove the head bolt without breaking it. You have to remove it first. I think I've got an extra (used) one on hand I'd sell you for cheap if you are interested.

6) It definitely looks like you were leaking a lot of oil. You may want to take the timing cover off and reseal it. I really like to skip this step because it is a pain (and completely unnessesary) normally but in your case you may need to. You just get in to a bunch of other stuff like removing the water pump and deciding if you want to then install a new water pump (may as well at that point).

7) Now is the time that you may start to feel overwhelmed. But don't!! Just take your time. You get to fix this thing right. You will love it when you are done. Keep the pics coming!

 

First of all Bennie, let me say thanks once again. I can't tell you how invaluable it is to have someone experienced help me through this process. :thanks:

Now, let me correct something. In question #2 I meant to ask if worn out "piston rings" could have caused the oil burning. Nontheless, I think you address those issues fully.

I did leave the oil control valve in when I pulled the bolts. So, if what you're saying is right, it was never broken before. Hmm...ok. In my mind I really want to understand fully why the engine ran like crap. Remember, too, that it lost significant power and hissed loudly just before this rebuild. Clogged cat again? Anyway, I have no choice but to rebuild it as I can't afford a new engine. Btw, thanks for the offer on the control valve, but I just ordered one from Rock Auto last night.

Yeh, I think I'll have to pull the timing cover. :facepalm: Let me ask you this: Haynes Manual say to pull the power steering pump, engine mount, windshield washer reservoir, crankshaft position censor, belt tensioner.....EVERYTHING! Are there any shortcuts to this or do I have to do ALL of it?

Here are some pics of the valve head:


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First of all Bennie, let me say thanks once again. I can't tell you how invaluable it is to have someone experienced help me through this process. :thanks:


Yeh, I think I'll have to pull the timing cover. :facepalm: Let me ask you this: Haynes Manual say to pull the power steering pump, engine mount, windshield washer reservoir, crankshaft position censor, belt tensioner.....EVERYTHING! Are there any shortcuts to this or do I have to do ALL of it?

Glad to help!

You do need to pull everything. It's been about 5 years since I had the timing cover off one of these and I forgot what a pain it was. It's not that it's really that hard, it's just that you need to remove a lot of stuff you would think you wouldn't have to. The power steering pump doesn't actually have to be pulled out of there and you don't have to disconnect the hoses, you just have to unbolt it because the mounting bolts go through the timing cover. Limited space is what makes it hard, nothing else.

It sounds like you will have other issues to work out when you get it back together too. If it ran great, but just burned oil, you would be good to go, but it sounds like you may have to mess with the cat and possibly replace the upsream O2 sensor as well. They both get taken out by excessive oil consumption.

 

I think have a situation here. I've started taken everything off the front of the engine to re-seal the timing chain cover and any other gaskets on the front. But, the pistons are still out and I have to get the harmonic balancer bolt off. I don't have an impact wrench and can't afford one now. I've been looking around the net and don't see a way out of this one. It seems I either have to put the engine back together first, loosen the bolt, and then take everything off again. Or....well, there is no "or." I can't do the breaker bar trick either. Any suggestions anyone? Thanks.

 

You already have the oil pan off so you can use a small piece of wood to stop the crankshaft from rotating.

 

Got the timing cover off. Thanks, Bennie, the wood trick worked great. The pulley just slid off by hand, too. It looks like there was a leak from the bottom front of the cover near the harmonic balancer sensor. Also, there doesn't seem to have been very much sealant around the cover. I could hardly see any in fact. It also looks suspect around the timing chain tensioner.

Had to order online a OTC valve spring compressor. I could not find one for sale in town ANYWHERE. It's a corolla! Why are these things so hard to find??


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The chain guides looked good

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Would anyone mine telling me exactly what all of these seals are for? They came with the head gasket from Rock Auto. I numbered them in the photo.

Also, what type and color of RTV should I use for the timing chain cover? Thanks


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Would anyone mine telling me exactly what all of these seals are for? They came with the head gasket from Rock Auto. I numbered them in the photo.

Also, what type and color of RTV should I use for the timing chain cover? Thanks


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That's a good question! I can make a few quesses but I don't know for sure. Number 2 might be the thermostat. Something in there may be for the oil pump and oil pickup. Number 7 I think is for the VVT filter plug on the head. Make sure you remove and clean that! I think this gasket set may also include parts that are not needed for our application but it's cheaper for them to just add a couple extra gaskets to the set than have 2 or 3 different sets that are almost the same.

I always just use black high temp NAPA RTV.

You are right, you really don't see much sealant on anything. That's normal. You don't need a thick bead anywhere, just enough to seal it.

You definitely have some leaks going on there! It looks like you have a leaky crank seal for sure. You will just have to replace that and make sure everything else gets sealed good when you put it back together. Spend plenty of time cleaning / degreasing the whole timing conver. RTV will not stick / seal anything if it's oily.

 

Now I've got a problem. I put the pistons in but now the crankshaft is binding up. Need some help on this one.