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Wont Start - flickering warning lights

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7.1K views 11 replies 6 participants last post by  sharkinstx  
#1 ·
Toyota Nation Citizens:
Need some help.
Recently bought a 2013 4 cyl Tacoma, ; 26k miles.


About two weeks ago, it wouldn't start after work. Zero electricity to any warning lights or clock with ignition turned to accessory and start positions. A friend helped jump it, and it started immediately - then ran fine.


This morning, it also wouldn't start. In accessory and start positions, first no warning lights and no clock and no start. Then they flickered and came on strong - and she started. Oil light came on and stayed on. Immediately turned off the engine. Checked the oil. It showed low. I bought a quart of 0W-20 and put it in. Dip stick was still low - just at minimum level.


Then turned key to start position and there was no lights at all, one click when I tried to start it and nothing else. Oil light and check engine light were dimly lit.


The truck is still in 3/36 manufacture warrantee and is a certified vehicle as well. I've called Toyota warrantee and they are sending a tow truck to get it to the closest local dealership (not the dealership I bought it from, which is 25 miles away).


So, initial thoughts from folks? Battery? The fact that the warning lights went from strong to flicker to nothing, back to strong then nothing - makes me think, not the battery, but maybe a short or a charging issue (?). [It also rained hard last night. But I'm thinking that ought not to matter at all]


Not sure why the oil was low. I bought it from a dealer and the vehicle is certified. Oil service sticker from the dealer in the window would suggest I have 4-5000 miles before new oil service with synthetic is required.


Does the electronics interrupt ignition if the oil is low?


Any thoughts on what I might ask the dealer specifically to check, besides - "it wont start"?


Thanks in advance.


FAO
 
#2 ·
Welcome to TN!

My gut feeling is this is battery related. At this point we will have to rely on you to report back to us what the dealer finds.

A couple of things. There are some anecdotal reports out there that traditional jump starting techniques on a 2nd Gen Taco might not be a real good idea. It has something to do with voltage spiking and the ECUs not liking that much. You may want to review the owners manual on this and perhaps others will chime in.

The low oil would have me concerned. Some of us around here have a very low trust level in the competence of dealers, and at a minimum, those who have them do such maintenance have learned to check their work. Its just a good idea.

I have the EWD and off hand do not remember seeing a low oil circuit that actually kills the engine. There is the oil pressure sensor circuit and a circuit that is really just a maintenance monitor. But I'll double check this a bit later and report back if I find something like that.
 
#3 ·
Taco 09,
Thank you. I am also wary of dealerships, but as it is still under original warrantee - I don't see an option besides starting with them. Or do I have another option?


The truck was sold to me as a "certified Toyota" and I registered it as well. Their claim is a 160(?) point pre-sale inspection. BTW, Carfax was clean, and with one owner. Not sure those facts give me much comfort - but should mean something if work is required. My concern is that the dealership's motivation to find the problem, is probably low. So anything you can advise, that I can convey to the service department for diagnosis, checking etc - will be appreciated.


I'm hoping you're right and it's simply a battery problem.


I'll post an update when I hear from the service dept on Monday. The truck is getting towed there today.


Many thanks!
FAO
 
#5 ·
FAO, you are on the right track with what you are doing. I know its a drag having problems with a new truck but it is all fixable. I really liked my 2.7L and miss it. I suspect you will grow to like yours too.

My comments about the dealer in your case were really with regard to your low oil situation in this instance and hopefully it is not leaking or burning oil. There have got to be more posts on the web about this than maybe anything else but it is very common to have an owner check fluid levels after dealer servicing only to find underfill/overfill or no fill at all. Kind of sad.

I got into trouble on another forum where someone had just purchased a used Taco with the 160 point inspection and had a number of issues develop, including low oil and rotten wiper blades IIRC. I asked them whether they really believed that a 160 point inspection was actually done because I do not believe they typically are. My intentions were good but I guess it did not come off very well.

IMHO the best way to deal with a service department is to be professional. Its not a good idea to go in looking for conflict because at this point you want them on your side. If your oil level was low for sure they should be advised. A short written bullet list of the symptoms you noted could not hurt but any protracted dissertation or unsolicited advise for proceeding with a diagnosis will not help you at this point.

Anyway, keep us posted on what develops and best of luck on your new truck.
 
#6 ·
Yeah, you never know if that inspection was ever really done. We bought a CPO '05 Highlander that had a very dirty cabin filter. I took it in with the checklist they gave us with it checked off that the filter was clean. The Service Manager's face went red he was so angry at the person who signed off on it. Hard to trust any work was done in that situation.
 
#7 ·
Moose, do you remember what was actually on that checklist?

I mean the problem I'm having here is if these are being resold with low fluid levels, rotten wiper blades and expired filters, are they also being sold with much more serious problems?

Let's face it, on a 4WD it can take a bit of doing to check the drive train fluid levels, they may even have to remove a skid plate. Also, if the front diff drain/fill plugs have never been removed they have a reputation for liking to be permanently seized in place.

How about a rusted-on rear brake drum, you think much effort would go in to attempting to remove it?

Color me skeptical as I tend to think that if anything is done on most it will be cosmetic in nature for a quick, high dollar sale.
 
#10 ·
OP Your problem sounds like a loose connection, typically from the battery to the cable. This is the most common thing I have seen. Just attaching the dead side of the battery jumper cables will often supply enough pressure to allow the vehicle to start.

Once you get beyond that, there are a few other crucial connections, starter ground is the most often to fail (used to be a big fat braided thing, don't even know what we have.
 
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#11 ·
Toyota Nation,
Many thanks for the helpful posts and advice.
Back from the dealer, and indeed, as Taco 09 surmised, it was a battery issue. Dead cell. Dealership replaced it without cost, under warrantee. The dealer's maintenance customer service rep was helpful, responsive and friendly.
There was no low oil. I misread the dip stick (no comments about who was the actual "dipstick" :). The oil was so new/clean, I didn't see the level until it was pointed out to me, where it was wet, but nearly transparent. I'm not used to an engine and engine oil that clean. And I watch the oil on my '09 Camry carefully.


BTW, has anyone heard about a recall for rebuilding piston rings on Camry's and Corollas? The same maint serv rep said it will cost Toyota 1800 per car. Related to the longstanding oil burning problem on certain model years. My Camry falls into that group - and it burns oil. If true, this recall must be costing Toyota a fortune.


Thanks to everyone for the advice and responses!
FAO