You should search the forums as there's a thread that shows all available mods for our car.

And congrats on your new purchase!

 

Honestly if you wanted the V6 [I also recommend] ... You should've looked harder or gotten the dealership to order one from factory!!

But for performance upgrade, starter would be SRI or CAI and exhaust.

 

Welcome to TN :hi:

Performance mods on this car are a waste of money unless you spend serious money on a custom forced induction. Buy the V6 or focus on suspension upgrades. Buy some lighter wheels and tires to lower your unsprung weight. You will get better acceleration and braking by doing so. Suspension upgrades can make a world of difference as well and you can enjoy that even if you aren't romping on it. Otherwise enjoy the better mpg!

Okay, I wont be buying performance mods then, now moving on to appearance mods
My first mod ill be adding is the EZ lip kit lol, it worked though saving my old corolla from some bumps on the road
nevertheless, my car is a push to start and man this is the first time I've ever had a keyless car. What are you guys thoughts on the push to start? How likely that button can ever fail on me? Is there such a Bypass if the button was broken? How likely someone can steal my car? Sorry lots of noob question but again I am noob lol.

 

Welcome to TN :hi:

Performance mods on this car are a waste of money unless you spend serious money on a custom forced induction. Buy the V6 or focus on suspension upgrades. Buy some lighter wheels and tires to lower your unsprung weight. You will get better acceleration and braking by doing so. Suspension upgrades can make a world of difference as well and you can enjoy that even if you aren't romping on it. Otherwise enjoy the better mpg!

 

I wouldn't think the push to start button would fail any sooner than a traditional key start. It could make it easier to steal of you have some smart thieves. Google BMW theft to see what has happened. I imagine that they have changed things so it isn't the same as it was. Our Altima has push button start and I don't loose any sleep over it

 

Okay sounds like the push to start isn't so bad then. its because my first time experience with it and Hell I have no idea what to do if that button stop working lol, but thank you it was bothering me for a while. Is there ever such bypass to this kind of system in the event the button breaks?

 

I'm not sure. The more likely scenario is the key fob battery dies. Our Altima has a procedure to follow if it does and I'm sure the Camry does as well.

 

sweet, thank you man i can rest easy, now. im thinking of getting the mud guards and tinting the windows. what do you think? worth it? Im thinking about lowering it by maybe an inch or two.

would you recommend going to a shop to lower the vehicle or should be DIY type of thing, my mechanic skills are 4/10 LOL

btw does the cold air intake works and HP?? Ive seen a thread here somewhere about it and comments were mixed either it works or not

 

Hi Folks,

Heartdisease - yikes - what a dismal moniker! Please change it so we don't think that cholesterol is lurking here. Suggestion: Hearthealth. Thanks.

Seriously!

I agree that in terms of engine performance, only forced induction on an I4 would get you to the realm of a V6. (7-ish PSI?) I hope Esoteric may see this and comment, because from his posts, it's obvious he knows about this. But this is going to be big bucks. Having said that, anything short of such a measure would likely give you little performance advantage for the money.

But the handling of the car, which is something you sense every second you drive it, unlike the 0.1% (or less) of the time when you're flooring it and would mostly feel the difference between an I4 and a V6, is something that's well worth investing to improve IMO. If you read the thread, http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/3....com/forum/310-7th-generation-2012/749570-sway-bar-options-7th-gen-camry-s.html, you can get a lot of information there. The mod's cost me about $2k, but transform the car's character so completely that I couldn't imagine going back to stock.

HTH,
Mark

 

Im still doing research on the Scion Tc turbo kit to be used on the camry.


The tuning part should be just as easy as the scion as they share the same engine. But the ads for kits available are misleading with parts included and turbo size. (Simple .50 trim turbo is perfect for this engine size)

I think the Auto trans should be able to handle the added power. (if the car can pull with 4-5 adults, than it should be fine for power with a driver/passenger.


Theres other prep work that would need to be done for the added power like filling the motor mounts and also the front intercooler/ piping placement.

But Id expect to spend about 3500 to do it right. wideband O2 sensor, gauges, injectors and all.

 

Did you try going to their website? Here's the link to everything it comes with.

http://www.dezod.com/dezod-motorsports/dezod-motorsports-turbo-systems/dzttc2ma/i-2121450.aspx

The link is for a Manuel transmission, idk why but if you go to their auto turbo kit, it doesn't give you a description of it. I'm thinking they're mostly likely very similar which is why they don't describe it twice.

 

That looks like a horrible place to put the air intake

 

Hi Folks,

$4-ish k is less than I would have guessed. Interesting. That turbo with 7-8PSI would bring the I4 roughly up to the output of the V6 I should think. (And 14-15 PSI, a V8. Couldn't resist, not that that's likely to be feasible without big engine/drivetrain modifications.) Btw, Esoteric, where do you find all of those clever videos? I always get a chuckle out of them.

About the rear sway bar, unfortunately, AFAIK, only the 19mm bar is available. The 23mm bar, which is the one I have and like so much, went out of production more than two years ago. You'd therefore have to shop for one used.

Thanks,
Mark

 

MARK,

Check out ReactionGifs.com

I make a bookmark folder and I have about 100 of them saved.

 

The most thing you can do is go to autozone buy a k&n high flow air filter to avoid to void the original warranty. Camry is for fun to drive, not fun to race. My advice is stop doing any engine mod to increase the horsepower. That's not worth it just increase few hp. You can focus on interior or decoration. Congrats you buy your new Camry.

 

Camry is a good daily, if you want more performance, go buy a weekend car.

 

Hi folks,

I can easily see it as Got Rice and a13... see it. But I can also see it the OP sees it since value is a highly subjective call. In the universe of cars, Camry constitutes a rigid, front-heavy FWD box connected by macpherson struts to four wheels. As I've written on several occasions, on good street tires, this package will only go about 5 sec in the 0-60 under the best of conditions. As I've also written on several occasions, the more engine output increases, the more the drivetrain favors a shift of mass rearward, and RWD. Therefore there is not much to be gained in performance with a Camry, before you hit several aspects of the brick wall represented by an FWD format.

For me, the biggest bang for the buck in a Camry from a standpoint of, "Let's see how much fun we can get out of this car," is in the area of handling. As I've said, handling is something you feel in a car every second you drive it, while a powerful motor makes its presence known only every once in a while (well, unless for you, every street light is a signal for a drag race...).

If, for you, "fun" is going faster than about 5 sec in 0-60, then Got Rice and a13... nailed it: you need a different car, and it should be RWD. But such a car could cost north of $40k. Plus insurance. Plus maintenance. Plus space to keep it.

So dialing this back to a much more modest enterprise, where, let's say, a few k$ may be on the table, and you want to drive/insure/keep just one car, then doing some modest things with a Camry may constitute good value after all.

Ultimately, value, like beauty, is in the eye of the beholder. Me personally - I would follow Got Rice and a13...'s advice, and find me a good '60's-'80's chassis from Detroit, and redesign it/rebuild it from the ground up, as I've done on several occasions. Nothing in a Camry could hold a candle to the fun and satisfaction one gets from doing that. But life's short, and not many people have the time and money to go down that route, so most do what they can with what they in front of them, even if it's only - yes - a Camry

Oh and, btw, coming back to power-adders and the theme of economy, why not nitrous?

HTH,
Mark

 

Mark,

To back up your statement for a car that can go 0-60 faster than 5 seconds, there are a few that will cost between $28k- $35k, such as the Golf GTI, Subaru WRX (If tuned correctly with COBB tuning ACCESS PORT kit) and Hyundai Genesis Coupe 3.8, you can easily achieve a car faster than 5 seconds. I had a Gen Coupe 3.8 and that was fastest car I've owned. Man, I wish I kept it so that I can have a RWD fun car.

Other than that, you are correct, 99% of cars faster than 5 seconds are north of $40K.

PS: NOS on a camry could be fun. :lol:

 

Xspeed - good follow-up - thanks. If I'm not mistaken, the cars you cited that are faster than 5 sec, are RWD or AWD, highlighting the brick-wall problem with FWD. Put 400hp in a Camry FWD, and the result would only be impressive billows of black smoke.

Best,
Mark

 

Yes, the Genesis Coupe is RWD, the WRX is AWD, and the Golf GTI is the only FWD in there that can probably achieve it with a good tuning and mods.

Don't forget the exploding transmissions and snapping driveshafts.

Although, there is a member here that has achieved over 900 HP for this Gen 3 Camry. Pretty nuts.

 

Tony dual charged to get it though. I thought he hit over 1000.

 

You're right, he did reach that magical 1000 mark.

 

What? There's always one...

Where can we get more details?

Thanks,
Mark

 

You guys make it seem like there isn't any fast fwd Drives out. Let's see just to name a few there's the Chevy cobalt turbo, Mazdaspeed 3, and srt 4. Those go just about 0 to 60 in 5 seconds as well. I have a friend who currently has a srt 4 putting down 400+ hp to the wheels. The only major disadvantage a fwd has over a rwd is in a track. Not so much on a strip. But in reality how many people actually go to a track?

 

As Einstein said, speed is relative. If 5 sec 0-60 is fast, and I understand for the majority of people it is fast, then FWD can be fast. I'm not belittling that at all. But if 5 sec isn't fast enough, then one must venture beyond FWD for a car with street tires.

Now with stickier tires, an FWD can certainly go faster, but I'm restricting the conversation to DD's on street tires, which sounds like the same point you're making.

Best,
Mark

 

I think 707 HP for a stock DD is over the top (SRT Hellcats), let alone a 400HP FWD, can't imagine the torque steer.

 

Torque steer is related to scrub radius: it's the moment applied by the thrust of the tire contact patch, through the moment arm defined by its effective line of action, with relation to the steering axis. In a quasi-static case, where the line of action of thrust aligns with the steering axis, there is no torque applied that tends to self-steer the car. But when a moment arm is created, whether by static design or by the dynamics of the pressure distribution of the tire contact patch as the car works over any manner of road bumps or depressions, then a finite torque will be developed that tends to self-steer the car. Wider tires tend to cause more "wandering" of the moment arm. If the torque steer on both wheels is zero, or balanced by having both being equal and opposite, then steering will be stable and easily controllable by the driver. If not, the car will tend to go in a direction that differs from driver intent. Voila, we have a torque-steer problem.

The magnitude of the problem tends to go in direct proportion to the thrust created by the tire contact patch (hence the discussion of engine output,) and in direct proportion to the moment arm, hence the discussion about scrub radius, tire width, and road conditions. It also goes in direct proportion to any division of thrust created by differential or the driveshaft angles, that is not equal between both wheels.

Torque steer isn't present with RWD unless the car has a huge amount of rear suspension yaw compliance (never by design, of course,) since the tires that apply thrust aren't the ones controlled by the driver to turn the car. However, the driven wheels in RWD can certainly also self-steer the car depending on traction differences and roll angle if the suspension is designed with roll (usually under)steer.

Best,
Mark

 

Torque steer isn't present with RWD unless the car has a huge amount of rear suspension yaw compliance (never by design, of course,) since the tires that apply thrust aren't the ones controlled by the driver to turn the car. However, the driven wheels in RWD can certainly also self-steer the car depending on traction differences and roll angle if the suspension is designed with roll (usually under)steer.

Best,
Mark

Would that explain why a lot of mustangs crash into spectators at car meets?:lol:

 

To the OP: i think you should attack your acceleration desires a bit differently. There isn't a huge amount of aftermarket engine mod support for it, so instead lighten it as much as you crave. As the old racing adage goes, every 1% reduction in weight is equivalent in power gained. You can definitely do simple things like wheels, batteries, and seats then start looking at more hardcore cf bits. The great thing is that weight reduction impacts all performance aspects of a car from acceleration, to handling, and stopping.

Have fun and share what you will be doing!