So I have an issue with my 07 Camry I4 (2AZFE) 203+ miles. It starts fine when cold (sitting overnight) BUT when its driven and the engine warms up. Whenever I try to start again, it takes a longer time to start. It will crank a few times before it starts. It always starts however it with crank extendedly before starting. It drives perfectly after starting though, no idling issues, etc. No CEL either. The issue is only the extended cranking before it starts after the engine reaches operating temperature.
Cleaned MAF & throttle body, changed air filter and PCV valve and hose. Brand new battery. Had stater, distributor and battery check after chaging the battery and everything was ok.

What do you guys think is the issue?

It has been said that it might be the fuel pump but despite that no one has come up with a solution or come back saying it was the fuel pump. So if you are gonna do the fuel pump, make it the very last thing you do.

 

Ok. I’ve noticed that as well based on various forums. The only other things thats left to try are fuel pump related apparently. Leaking fuel pressure regulator or injectors. Im thinking of trying a techron cleaner the next time I full up.

 

If you wanted to do some testing, compare the cold start fuel pressure to the hot start pressure.

 

Is there a simple way to do that?
Or would I need a gauge etc.?

 

Could be a bad fuel injector leaking. On cold start the engine needs a rich fuel mixture so the extra gas from a leaking injector won't effect it. But when it's warm it's like trying to start a flooded engine.

 

Ok. So should I try the techron fuel injector additive or would I have to get the bad injector/s replaced?

 

Throw in the Techron and see what happens. Then do the injectors. If it isn't the injectors, then it is the unproven solution of fuel pump.

 

Techron won't help a leaking fuel injector. Also, you will have to check each injector to find out if that's the issue and if so which one is bad.

 

I literally signed up just to come here to tell you I have the exact same problem in my 2009 Camry. I did a bottle of Techron and it didn't help. I replaced the fuel pump 3 years ago and it fixed the problem, and now it's back. We're about to replace it for a second time. I was shocked at the increase in cost for a fuel pump in this year range also. For the assembly and pump it's running $500+ versus the $250 I paid 3 years ago. Just wanted to put my 2 cents in because it's been a problem I've had for a while too. I promise when we replace it this weekend I will let you know if it fixes the issue.

 

Thanks. Really appreciate this!
I read extensively online about this issue and all signs were leading the the fuel pump. But I just wanted to hear of any other “non-invasive” method I have not tried before deciding to change the fuel pump.
Did you happen to change the pump yourself or you brought the car to a shop?

 

Also yes, there is an internal fuel filter it's called a strainer kit. You have to take the fuel pump out to change it, it's attached to the assembly housing. So if you're going to do all of that, you're halfway into the labor of replacing the whole thing anyways. Stupid design.

 

I wanna say Denso is OEM but I feel like Delphi is OEM too. I'd stick with Denso. Don't buy cheap.

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I believe it's Delphi, but Denso has OEM parts on Toyota too so it's hard to say. The OEM is a HUGE investment if you're doing the whole pump with assembly. I was shocked at the price difference 3 years makes. We replaced the assembly and pump for less than $300 3 years ago and now you can't find the entire thing put together for less than I want to say $600 on Rock Auto. You CAN buy just the pump without the assembly for cheaper.

 

I'd say just replace the pump itself and see what happens from there. I feel like there is a guide to fuel components to replace but I have no clue.

 

Ok thanks! Im going to try a denso pump only first and not the whole assembly. Based on what Ive read Denso is the OEM.

 

I'd say just replace the components as needed unless they all add up to the price of the whole assembly.

 

"But I just wanted to hear of any other “non-invasive” method I have not tried"
Testing fuel pressure is the standard before replacing fuel pump.
If not able to do this you can monitor the A/F sensor at high engine loads
If it stays rich then fuel pump doing its job.

 

Ok. Do I use a simple scan tool in live data mode to do that? Or do I have to purchase some other tool to monitor this sensor?

 

Scan tool reading live data should show voltage/current or LAMBDA for sensor.

 

I see. Whats the actual/other way?

 

Testing fuel pressure is the standard before replacing fuel pump.

 

Using scan tool to monitor the A/F sensor .
Scan tool that reads live data available?

 

I have a scan tool that reads live data. Do all scan tools read the same live data? Or do some read more data than others?

 

If you can you read A/F sensor then you can monitor its activity.
Try it out an let us know.
Lots of variation among scan tools.

 

Ok. Just for clarification what does A/F mean?

 

Ok, can recommend scannerdanner.com site for instruction on the various engine parameters including the A/F or O2 sensor. You'll be able to pick up lots of good info and be assured that it is accurate.

 

Here's another thread to look at even though the OP has not come back with a solution.

HARD start with warm engine - Possible Fixes ? Temp Sensor?

Someone created a post on here about how car starts fine when cold but has trouble starting when warmed up. Just cranks longer. I seen a similar trend and thought it was injector or fuel related. Through time, the issue got worst for me where I had to gas it while trying to start just to get...

www.toyotanation.com

 

As promised,
I replaced the fuel pump this weekend and the issue is now gone. I'd love to know why my Camry eats fuel pumps but whatever at least it is fixed for now! Hope you have the same luck!

 

Awesome! Thanks for keeping your promise. Happy you got it fixed!
By the way, did you change the whole unit or did you just change the pump only?

 

I replaced the whole unit just for the convenience of not taking apart the sending unit and possibly breaking things. The one I took out (3 years old) looks brand new so I might save it and pull the pump and stick a new pump in it when this (Seemingly inevitably) happens again!

 

Oh ok, gotchu. Right! This issue really sucks. Where did you buy the whole assembly?

 

I found an aftermarket pump/assembly on Amazon for $89. It's always better to do OEM, because apparently they'll last longer. But in my area the whole pump and assembly is averaging $975 for OEM, so I bought the $88 one because I can replace it 9 times before it equals what one OEM does.

 

Ok got it. Can you PM the link to me if you dont mind? Thanks!

 

Sorry to dig this tread up but it sounds like the notorious coolant temp sensor needing replacement if starting fine cold but not at op temp.
Fuel issues would trigger a lean code.
Had both hard start hot not cold and lean code. Tested psi it was low, Replaced fuel pump/sock and filter, codes gone still hard start hot. Replaced coolant temp sensor, all good.
If hard starting cold and hot then it points first to a vac leak or needing a throttle body replacement because the IAC is controlled via the ECM with the TB. This is after getting the battery and starting system checked for free at most autoparts stores.

For anyone searching in the future with these issues, hope this helps.

 

So I have an issue with my 07 Camry I4 (2AZFE) 203+ miles. It starts fine when cold (sitting overnight) BUT when its driven and the engine warms up. Whenever I try to start again, it takes a longer time to start. It will crank a few times before it starts. It always starts however it with crank extendedly before starting. It drives perfectly after starting though, no idling issues, etc. No CEL either. The issue is only the extended cranking before it starts after the engine reaches operating temperature.
Cleaned MAF & throttle body, changed air filter and PCV valve and hose. Brand new battery. Had stater, distributor and battery check after chaging the battery and everything was ok.

What do you guys think is the issue?

I have had this twice now. The first time, a fuel filter change improved it vastly. Three years later, if the air temperature outside is in the 80s or 90s, I’m good from one or two stops and then it’s gonna sit for an hour before restarting. I will report back after I get it fixed. Mechanic has wondered about a sensor. I wonder about something in the fuel system, because it almost seemed flooded today. Also, it seems to do better if I am not running the air conditioner. I live in Texas though, and you know what that means…