A 7A-GE (4A-GE head, 7A-FE block) is a very difficult build. I wouldn't recommend it. A turbo on a 7A-FE is much easier and the internals should handle 7 PSI if they're in good condition. This will give you a pretty large boost in power so it's the way to go if you don't want to buy a 4A-GE 20V and swap it in.

DannoXYZ will be boosting a 7A-FE sometime in the future, so keep an eye out for that. Trife swapped in a 4A-GE Blacktop, and there are a few threads with a lot of info on how to do it. We also have a 7A-GE project thread but the car isn't done and progress has been very slow, it's in the build threads sticky. In fact, the build thread sticky has a TON of good info to start you off.

Lowering springs on new struts is a cheap option, but if you want moar low, coilovers are the way to go. Front lip can be from an Integra Type R, they fit. Rear lip will be very tricky to fit, but I know someone selling one. Side skirts can be used from an 8th gen Corolla S, they're direct fit.

Welcome to the forum!

 

A 7A-GE (4A-GE head, 7A-FE block) is a very difficult build. I wouldn't recommend it. A turbo on a 7A-FE is much easier and the internals should handle 7 PSI if they're in good condition. This will give you a pretty large boost in power so it's the way to go if you don't want to buy a 4A-GE 20V and swap it in.

7AGEs aren't difficult (especially if you build them out of the car), just they can be a bit fiddly and you have to worry about wiring etc - it's a swap that hass been done many times over many years so plenty of information and help out there and all the common bugs have been ironed out long ago. Hardest bit in the States would probably be getting hold of the right 20V stuff to bolt on.

As for the 7AFTE, I always like to whip out the limited edition Australian AE112 Sportivo Turbo - 115kw, 237Nm, 8psi on completely stock internals (standard 9.5:1 compression too) with a tiny IHI turbo (secondary turbo from a Liberty/Legacy B4), front-mount and a TOMs ECU. And that is achieved within the extremely restrictive and restrained factory specifications, aftermarket kits can push the limits much more

 

Yes, welcome!!!

I don't recommend opening up the engine for upgrades unless you're very familiar with stock rebuilds on a variety of engines. Only then should you attempt a hybrid/Franken-engine combination that never existed in factory form. These engines are designed very thoroughly from the factory as complete systems. As such. you'll need to redesign and improve the entire system if you want significant enough of improvements to notice. For example, to get some worthwhile extra power out of a 7A-FE, you'll want to:

- replace entire intake tract with true CAI
- 10mm larger throttle-body
- larger intake-manifold with shorter runners
- install larger intake & exhaust valves
- port & polish head to match larger valves
- 83mm overbore 11:1 high-comp slipper pistons
- forged longer connecting rods
- 4-1 long-tube exhaust header
- custom cam to match new intake, head, pistons and exhaust
- 60mm free-flow exhaust
- custom programmed ECM or standalone EFI system to create optimized fuel & ignition maps for the above Franken-engine. Even so, you'll be lucky to get additional 30-50bhp out of the 7A-FE.

Forced induction is easiest and best bang-for-the-buck/effort upgrade. You take whatever existing engine configuration you have, and just scale it up by blowing extra air-mass through. By far the easiest boost upgrade is from the factory supercharged MR2 4A-GZE. Take the entire engine, trans, and ECM from junkyard car and Install it over a weekend and you've got +30% power increase over 7A-FE. Even more by turning up the boost to get +50% increase. This should satisfy most people's desire for more power for the least amount of money and effort. And it uses all factory parts and you can get replacement parts and even repairs at your local Toyota dealer.

Now, I used to race motorcycles back in the late '80 for about 10-years. I got an HRC race-kit for my VFR-750 that included a titanium exhaust system. It came in a box of about 30 individual pieces with only a 3x5" card with a single line of instructions that said: "Cut and weld as necessary." IF you're the kind of person that would reply with, "heck yeah, let's do this!!!" when opening a box like that, then you can follow along with my turbo 7A-FE adventure. Otherwise, a straight across swap with 4A-GZE would be best for you.

People have been turbocharging 3-cylinder Yugos to 12-cylinder Ferrari Testarossas from the moment they hit the showroom floor. Here's some turbo 7A-FE projects:

Stef's 7AFTE Tech/Project
DIY - How to forged and build a turbo 4a/7a motor
My 7AGTE 20V project

There are no bolt-on turnkey turbo kits out there. That's because everyone's car will have different mileage and different levels of wear and tear. They will all need dyno-tuning and fine-tuning. Stef's is the easiest since it's mostly bolt-ons, but still quite a lot of fabrication and welding involved.

Mine will be different than anything that's been done before. I'm going to stuff the turbo behind the engine. Partly to maintain as stock looking as possible. And for performance reasons, I want as much of the added weight as far back as possible to get even weight distribution. This also allows me to use the factory exhaust with just a minor detour up to the turbo and back.

I'll use Stef's idea of the air-water intercooler. More efficient and less turbo lag due to the much shorter intake-tract compared to a FMIC. To tie it all together, I'll use an older LinkECU system because it won't require adding a 60-2 trigger wheel & sensor. I'll be able to re-use all of the factory sensors, except for the MAP of course. Target is 200bhp with all stock internals, with new ARP rod bolts. Opening it up to reduce compression with new pistons and rods will let me run as much boost as I want for +300bhp!

BTW, look up Manon Racing Products in NZ, they have pre-built turnkey engines for NA or forced-induction.

 

Thanks for all the advice so far. And just to make it clear I do have plenty experience around engines and full shop access. I was a Toyota tech for two years and now wor for Chevrolet. So tools, basic knowledge and know how I have. I'm just trying to decide what is best for what I want.

The 7A in my corolla is brand new build with all oem parts with roughly 5000 miles on it. So I'm trying to see what I can do really with the new engine I just did.

And I've bee looking at body parts and it seems I want a fx front bumper and corolla s side skirts with Jdm lights and grill, but what do I do for rear bumper and lip?