See below for reference

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/132-9th-generation-2003-2008/399511-diy-front-brake-job-pics.html

1. OEM shims are far superior to the Duralast and aftermarket garbage. I always reuse Toyota shims or buy new Toyota shims if I don't have any.

2. There is one sensor per wheel located on the inboard (piston side) pad. If it isn't ridiculously worn then you can reuse them. I always do unless they are completely destroyed.

3. Rust build up caused the rotor to stick. Almost always the rotor is seized to the hub. In the above DIY you will see at times you need to hammer off the rotor. I apply a light layer of anti-seize to avoid this sticking.

4. Either your slide pins or your caliper is sticking. The former is much more likely. Make sure you lube and cycle both the slides with a proper slide lubricant as in the DIY.

5. Could be the pads or the fact that they feel the same and your expectation has changed. Flushing the brake fluid is a good idea an should be done every 3 years at minimum. Do a flush and see if it helps.

Hope this helps.

 

1> Technically you're supposed to use the shims that come installed on the new pads (and not reuse the original shims). If you do choose to reuse the original shims then you need to remove the shims on the new pads. Regardless, there is no danger with either decision (or even using no shims at all) - however you may notice excessive brake squeak. If they aren't making noise don't worry about it.

2> What hardtopte said.

3> Theoretically both rotors should be loose (they get clamped in place between the wheel and the hub) however sometimes corrosion builds up and makes them feel solid. If you were to whack it with a hammer it would likely break loose.

4> Again what hardtopte said. I recommend the clear silicone lube - or dielectric grease. The black stuff (and especially regular grease) can cause the rubber boots to swell up and leak.

5> Some decreased braking power is normal until the pads have a chance to wear into the rotor's surface. Considering they weren't machined they don't have a perfectly smooth finish. It will take a little time (50-100 miles or so) but eventually the pads will work just as well as the originals. A clean/adjust of the rear brakes can make a huge difference as well.

 

I see what you recommend for slide pin grease, but I was wondering is it possible to use the grease that came with the pads or must I go buy the one you recommend.

I won't be able to work on the car this weekend but hopefully next weekend will still be OK. Thanks for your help.

 

The black stuff that comes with the pads is great for lubing the contact points where the pads actually mount into the caliper bracket however you're best off not using it in the presence of rubber.

White lithium grease is also not a good idea as it can dry "hard" and make things freeze up after awhile.

You don't need a lot.. just pull the pins out and wipe them off. If there is rust inside you can use a drill bit (using your hand, not a drill) and brake cleaner spray to clean out the bores then apply fresh grease and reinstall the pins. If the rubber boots are torn, swelled or otherwise damaged just replace them.

You don't need a whole lot of grease.. two of the little 99c packets (probably even one if you're careful) should suffice. Get the dielectric grease or "connector protector" stuff.

Personally I use a product called "Sil-Glyde" which is just like dielectric grease except a bit "thinner" but it tends to be quite a bit more expensive. And a $15 tube of it will be way more than you'll ever use.