With all due respect to your mechanic, I think his diagnostic skills may need a little polish. A stethoscope (or broomstick handle for shade tree mechanics) would help pinpoint the source of the noise. If I were you, I would be expecting a refund for the labor.

 

I had a similar problem with my 07 se v6. It turned out to be an idler pulley that was going out. My mechanic said there are 2, and 1 is making the noise, but recc. changing out both, along with the belt. Now, car is quiet like it should be.

If you are near Pasadena, CA, check out LTS Mastertech. Mike does a great job and is fairly priced.

 

How much did this cost? I believe I am having the same problem.

 

Mine has a similar problem, but it was the belt tensor and the alternator bearing. So I change both of them.

 

If after $600 the noise stays the same yeah the mechanic sucks.

Maybe use a short segment of garden hose and see if OP can isolate the source of the noise. Check the alternator area maybe?

If it's the alternator then get a Denso rebuilt (densoaftermarket.com) or if you want to experiment with an Autozone Duralast reman with lifetime warranty (~$163). At least if it squeaks again you'll get another one free?

http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/product-info/en/US/wwd/15640/image/4/

 

Reviving this thread because I am now having the same problem. Did you guys ever figure out exactly what the problem was? I have changed out engine mounts, tensioner rods, belts, but still get the squeal when ever I turn on the AC and put the car in either Drive or Reverse. No squeal when it is in Park or Neutral though?:help: Mine is a 2007 SE V6.

 

+1 on the stethoscope, you can even buy one cheap at Harbor Freight for goodness sake! Alternator bearing is a possibility, idler maybe, but I didn't hear the most important suggestion of all .... Goodyear Gatorback belt!

I had a car that nothing including 2 new belts would make the squeek quit, the Gatorback did it and it has a lifetime warranty against everything! Also make sure that you clean all pulleys with brake cleaner and a brush, especially the grooves. If you sprayed belt dressing on it an any point, you REALLY need to clean the pulleys! That stuff is the devil!

 

Just had that pblm with my car. Ended up being the idler pully to the left of the water pump.

 

I will double check, but I am pretty sure I replaced that already. Thanks though man. :thumbsup:

 

Could you post a video of the sound

 

I will try and get it next time I get a chance. It is only when I put it in drive or reverse so I need someone else there to video it. wd-40 seemed to stop it for a day...ha ha. Sprayed just a little on the belt to make sure the extra dry dusty summer hasn't dried it out or something.

 

07 here, with the "cricket" noise, had tensioner replaced, belt replaced, tensioner pulley, and i think one idler pulley, i have to double check... toyota recommended alternator to be replaced.. anybody come across leaky power steering?

 

Its too bad people ask questions, go get it fixed and leave a dead unsolved thread behind. Here are a few trouble spots to look at for a squealing serp:

A buildup of rubber/something slick on the pulleys. I used to do the wd40 trick years ago. But after reading about tire dressings, I realized the meguires hot shine tire dressing I was using was a better choice for anything rubber. It contains no silicone, just conditioners with antiozinant, so its all nourishment to rubber. I give the serps and the whole engine compartment a shot of that every other year. It evaporates over time, no greasy film. Hoses, wires, plastic all look great. Havn't replaced anything rubber yet including the serp, and the miles are getting up there.

If the serp was removed for any reason, can be set too tight uopn replacement. Why I snake mine on compressing the tensioner, not loosening the alternator, etc. If the reason was to replace the alternator, etc outline its current location for proper re-installation.

Pulley bearings. Agree with other replies, could be any of them so a stethoscope helps. If it happens when the AC is on, look into the AC clutch.

 

Sorry it took me a while guys. I tried to get video of the noise twice and of course I couldn't get the engine to do it. BUT, today it was loud as could be so I hit the e Brake and hopped out to take a video really quick. The chirping sound only starts when I turn on the AC and put a load on the engine (meaning it is either in drive or reverse). Here is video of the noise:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mJEETlZOFfQ&feature=youtu.be


Any ideas?:dunno:

 

Sorry it took me a while guys. I tried to get video of the noise twice and of course I couldn't get the engine to do it. BUT, today it was loud as could be so I hit the e Brake and hopped out to take a video really quick. The chirping sound only starts when I turn on the AC and put a load on the engine (meaning it is either in drive or reverse). Here is video of the noise:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mJEETlZOFfQ&feature=youtu.be


Any ideas?:dunno:

Could be the belt tensioner..If you play the video its kind of what I see and hear..
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1390615

 

Bump...

I added a video, any ideas guys?

 

Black Cam? Anybody? gulp. :help:

 

If its only when ac is on it would lead me to believe its got something to do with the ac or ac clutch. The video isnt very clear so I can't really see the pullies. But do you notice any wobbling or anything from any of the pullies. I'd Take the belt off and check each pully by hand. Now if a car with that same sound came into my shop the first thing id do is take the wheel off, take off the splash guards. And check each pully with my stethoscope for bearing noise while the engine is running. That's really the only way to narrow it down if it isn't blatantly noticeable

 

thanks guys I will check those out.

 

Well I replaced this whole part already:

and the belts, and now the dogbone engine mount because it was cracked. So if that is the tension arm you are talking about, and the noise still hasn't stopped, then you guys are saying it could be the AC Idler, or water pump, or alternator at this point? Just want to make sure I got everything straight before I end up going to Toyota and having them try to redo any work.:thumbsup:

 

That looks like the tensioner for a 2GRFE engine, yes?
Can you provide a quick installation procedure for it?
I can't find one for this engine, not even on youtube.
Was you problem resolved?

This is what I have picked up on the net on diagnosing a squeak emanating from the serp belt area. (I provide the info mostly so I can have it in writing somewhere so I can refer back to it in the near future when I begin diagnosing a squeak in my wife's ES350.)

Turn on engine, let it warm up a bit, and spray water on inside of belt where it enters a pulley. About three pumps of water.
If squeak goes away, it is usually a belt misalignment problem. Spray at different parts of the belt/pulley. [this indicates a pulley has slid out and will need to be pressed back in. Start with the two closest pulleys. the squeak is from the belt rubbing against a misaligned pulley; the water acts as a lubricant to quiet it.]
If squeak gets louder, it is usually a tensioner problem. [it squaks louder because the tensioner is not providing enough tension.]
If there is little or no change in the squeak, it is usually a bad bearing. Idler, water pump, alternator, power steering, etc... [check each pulley by hand: rotate it and move it up and down to identify the culprit(s).
Another thing that could cause squeaking are chemicals on the belt, such as motor oil or anti-freeze. This creates slippage, causing squeaks.

 

Ok. We just had a Nissan Altima in the shop with the SAME issue. Same noise. Only when ac on and in drive. You could actually watch the tensioner go nuts. Ended up being the compressor on its way out putting to much drag on the belt. Take it to a shop and have them hook up guages to the ac. And monitor the high and low side pressures.

 

Awesome! I will do that asap. How much were the parts to do the repair, and was the labor a pain in the neck?

 

Okay, so we checked everything and here is what we found to be the problem. The gates tensioner I purchased last year in July had in fact gone bad already. The arm should have a little tiny bit of give to it and it should be smooth, but instead it was like it was snapping one way or the other. Like the difference in the second hand on some clocks where it either rotates smoothly, or snaps to each number. Well the tension arm was snapping back n forth. So then I asked why it would break after just replacing it, and I asked him about the compression settings for the AC like you told me to check. He said it would be best to let Toyota diagnose it and make sure it follows their specs so, I am going there sometime this week to have them do a tune up and see if they can run a diagnostic...I will let you all know. Thanks again.:thumbsup:

 

Sounds good. Because it is very possible that one of the other components is causing the tensioners to fail.

 

I wonder if the serp belt may be too tight? Are you compressing the tensioner to get the belt on and off, or loosening alternator, etc.

 

So just got it back from a dealership on Thursday and they did a full diagnostic and said everything looked good, no compression ratios off or anything, no loose pulleys or idlers.

I am not sure what keeps snapping these, but the mechanic at the dealership told me it was a common problem they had been seeing. Seems everything I have wrong with this car is a "common issue" with this model. I was tempted to ask him how many "common" problems can 1 car have, but didn't want to be a jerk.

In response to the question, I am not sure about the alternator or loosening the tensioner belt, I let the mechanic handle that. I am just trying to learn as I go.:thumbsup:

 

I wonder if its just a common problem with aftermarket parts.

I know when buying some parts at the parts house the failure rate is higher.

Buying directly from the Dealership may be expensive but the parts are usually of higher quality and come with a replacement warranty. I know most of the parts we sell at Mercedes have a 2 year warranty on them.

They way I was explained and am not sure how much water this holds, is that parts come of from assembly plants with certian requirements for QC. when the manfucturing tools begin to wear down from from making these parts the Quality begins to diminish. Parts are sold from the manufacture in a teir base, high quality and price go to those who can afford to buy and sell them I.E. dealers and shop suppliers. Online stores buy the left over diminished quality but still working parts at a discounted rate. I.E ebay and everyother online parts that are more than 50% of what dealerships charge. only no warranty come with them hence the even cheaper rates. Middle quality may go to places like local parts house.