No DTC's huh? are thr injectors getting a pulsing ground while cranking? Was there any dramatic noise when it shut off? What kind of gas are you running and how old is it? Is there an aftermarket immobilizer/key/anti-theft system equipped? Check all of your grounds in your engine bay. There are two on the driver side of the cylinder head, one on the driver strut tower, one on top of the transmission and one behind the passenger headlight.

And was his computer like a Maxi-Me or a solus or something?

 

No codes. After several failed attempts to start it, the light blinked rapidly but nothing was stored.

I'm not sure how I'd go about testing pulsing ground on the injectors.

No noise, just cut out.

Regular unleaded, days old from Irving

No aftermarket system.

All grounds good.

The machine was an OTC, about lunch box sized.

 

Alright. You check injector ground by taking a test light (or you can make one too) and see if the light blinks while you crank the engine. If the light does blink, then your injectors are functioning properly. Don't forget to ground the test light or your tool you make.

Have you tried spraying starting fluid directly into the throttle body to see if it at least runs for a couple of seconds? If it does, then I'd stick to a file delivery issue. If it doesn't, then it check to see if the engine has spark.

 

OK, I'll try testing injectors next.

I've actually managed to get it started for a brief second on starting fluid. Which led me to believe it was the fuel pump initially, but replacing pump didn't help.

So it sounds like we're narrowing it down. If the injectors aren't pulsing, what could it be?

 

Replacing the fuel pump was probably a complete waste of money.

Did you verify there is no fuel coming to the rail? You can check if it has fuel by removing the fuel line quick disconnect and cranking the engine to see if fuel comes out. This will let you know if you have a problem before the fuel rail or afterwards. The fuel line disconnect can mostly be seen here. Just skip the other steps:

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...30708-diy-2003-2008-corolla-matrix-pontiac-vibe-toyota-injector-flush-pics.html

If you checked fuel at the rail, have you checked your circuit opening relay? On the Corolla it is buried in the dashboard behind the coin holder tray. It is a light blue colored relay. You can verify the relay is at fault by checking for power at the fuel pump connector when cranking. Additionally, you can simply remove and swap the relay with the horn relay (located in the engine compartment), or use a jumper wire to bypass the relay and see if it gets fuel.

If you send me a PM, I can get you the document that lists the exact location of the relay in the relay block.

 

It was a waste of money. My previous experience is with Honda, which primes their fuel pumps on accessory. This vehicle primes the pump when you cut the ignition. When I didn't hear priming on accessory, I assumed pump was bad.

It's got fuel to the rail.

In response to your earlier suggestion that I test for spark, that's done too. We've got compression, spark and fuel to the rail.

 

Where did you get a replacement ECM? Have you done a good check of your fuses and grounds? The injectors are powered directly by the ignition switch and grounded by the ECU. Have you verified you have power at the injector connections?

If you have power at the injectors, fuel at the rail, spark, compression, and good gasoline, the ECU is the only logical place you have a problem.

 

Fuel pump starts priming as soon as you operate the starter. You can give it just a short blip of the starter and listen for the fuel pump without continuing to crank to start the engine.

 

Checked the injector pulse with a light, tested OK. Checked injectors themselves for short, tested OK.

Got the ecm from a place that remanufactures them, had a tested good sticker on it from the day it was shipped.

When I was messing around with it two days ago, it started up and ran for almost ten seconds before dying. Had no throttle response in that time.

 

What was the part number for the replacement ECU? Do you still have the original ECU?

 

Hmmm, nobody seems to be asking this question, but how's your starter?

What happens when you turn the key? Do you get one click, nothing, or the motor turns but doesn't start?

 

The motor turns but doesn't start.

 

Is the key original? Did you try the second key? A bad key will turn the motor but won't start.

 

Yours shut off while driving, so it may be something else, but a few thousand miles ago at 281K miles, my Corolla would turn over but not start. I took out the starter and had it tested at two different stores. Both stores said the starter tested as "weak". I replaced the starter and it took about 10 seconds, but finally started. After that and since then I have had no problems.

 

The key is original. Looking for spare now.

A weak starter sounds like a long shot but I'll certainly add it to the list.

On the subject of keys. If I just buy a new cut transponder key can I follow the standard self programming procedure?

 

It has to be the right key. Depends if your car is a CE or LE. I had to try 2 programmings. It turned out that CE Corollas have a different method than LE.

 

I still have the original. Both ECM part numbers are 8966102K23

 

The original ECM is an updated post recall ECM. I would reinstall it just in case, since the remanufactured ECM is always a toss up.

Since you still don't have a fix let's go by the numbers.

1. For starters check the 30A Main Fuse (Engine Bay Fuse Box) 15A AM2 Fuse (Driver Side Dash Fuse Box), 10A EFI Fuse (Engine Bay Fuse Box), and 15A EFI2 Fuse (Engine Bay Fuse Box).

2. There are two important grounds for the engine on this car. EC is located on the driver side of the cylinder head near the coolant temp sensor. This ground is for the ignition system. The other is ground ED which is located on the driver side strut tower. This ground is for the rest of the EFI system.

3. If the issue was with the immobilizer your security light would be a give away. What does the security light do? Does it keep blinking with the key in the ON position? If so, that might be the problem. Try another key and verify.

4. Check the crankshaft position sensor and camshaft position sensor connectors and harness to verify they are not damaged and correctly installed.

5. If none of the above works, it will probably be an issue with the immobilizer ECU itself, really bad fuel, or something internal (like jumped timing).

 

Does the tachometer move when you crank it? Not sure if this question had been asked.

 

My 2005 Corolla stalls while driving. All lights come on as expected. With the key in the on position (and the clutch out) while being towed the tachometer will not show RPM. We ranged speed from 0-60km/h and it did not show any readings. Do you have more information on this?

 

Problem solved. After two faulty ECMs, I finally got one that worked. If you have the means, I recommend purchasing new rather than remanufactured.

 

If it's stalling, the engine is looking for vacuum.

Have you ever replaced the intake manifold gasket? I ask, because there's a hidden vacuum port to connect the manifold to.

Now that you can communicate with the ECU, any pending or stored codes?

 

I h

If it's stalling, the engine is looking for vacuum.

Have you ever replaced the intake manifold gasket? I ask, because there's a hidden vacuum port to connect the manifold to.

Now that you can communicate with the ECU, any pending or stored codes?

I havent had the intake mani off. Ever. Checked typical stuff today, relays, fuses, voltage, resistance etc. Got the car running and wiggled all electrical and vacuum lines. No changes to idle while doing so. All connectors have dielectric grease in them and the car is undercoated. Repositioned and added ground wires. Same problem.
When it would cut out, the EFI relay under hood would not click. We changed the relay with no difference. When it wouldnt start it had no injector pulse or spark. Then it would randomly start. Run 5-15 minutes and die.

Ran for 60mins on new ecu, which it wouldnt consistently do before.
Will report back.

 

Although you seemed to have solved your issue with the ECM, you'll need to replace that intake manifold gasket. It's virtually a 100% failure part. Use the updated Toyota gasket (orange in color):

 

Ok, thanks John.

 

Drove car for 45 mins last. No issues at all. I will post back if anything comes up.

Thanks again for the input guys?

 

Car is running great. ECU / ECM was the issue. Thanks for the help.
No communication with obd2 port was likely the beginning of my problem.
Same symptoms as the bad battery to chassis ground.

Cheers