Nice post.. clear and sequential pictures. My only criticism would be with the wrench you used to undo the cap. I do not think the square end of a 3/8 ratchet would do the trick.. I suspect you meant to say the 1/2 " square end works. But.. as I have never done my own changes.. I may be wrong.

 

It is a 3/8" ratchet end since 1/2" is too big. If you look at the impact wrench picture, I actually have a step-down converter to fit the square end of the plug. I use the same procedure on another 2GR-FE vehicle (RAV4) I have.

 

:smile:I stand corrected.. I took the adapter to go from 3/8 to 1/2.. and wondered why anyone would own a 3/8 impact..:smile:

 

Thanks for pointing it out, I didn't make it clear in the text, which has been updated that there's an adapter on.

 

4 things:

1) Thanks, Stuck!

2) Holy rust, we have no salt down here so the bottom of mine is spotless

3) using a 1/2 impact on that aluminum....scary

4) As for anyone having a 3/8 impact...I have both a 3/8" electric and pneumatic impact. I use the electric one all the time. One of my best tool investments...however 1/2" pneumatic trumps the 3/8" any day of the week...but they have their uses.

 

4 things:

3) using a 1/2 impact on that aluminum....scary
.

Boy, you'd want to make sure it was in reverse before firing it up....

...Did that oil look the shade of axle grease to anyone else? Maybe just the light....

 

I just stick a 3/8" extension in the bottom and if the drain plug turns before the canister I will drain it.

Nine times out of ten the canister turns before the drain plug and I use a liter pop bottle with the top cut off to catch the oil and clean the outside of the canister with a can of spray brake cleaner and a paper towel

 

Just wanted to say, Luc, that your efforts are certainly appreciated! Thanks! :clap:

 

Not to bend the subject slightly but I've been having the dealer change the oil in my last two Highlanders and didn't realize the fun I was missing. Can someone give me the short answer on why Toyota now uses this type of oil filter? I mean, what was wrong with the simple spin-on filters that everyone used for the past 50 years? This reminds me of the oil filter setup on my old 1941 Ford tractor. What was old is new again.

 

I'd bet they give you the usual BS for the reason...better for the environment...etc...

Regardless, if you don't want to drain it, there is no reason to not simply spin it off full of oil like any other filter, its just kinda messy

 

People won't go to the dealer to get their oil changed if they made it simple to do like 95% of the other cars on the road.>

In fairness to Toyota - the 2006 Fusion and most Mercedes and BMW's have a paper filter like this (in some cases that you can only change from the top of the engine).

OTOH - Toyota had a nice spin-on filter for the 2008 Corolla, only to blow it with a paper filter like this for the newer generations.

 

Funny thing to me also is there is no steel - just paper and two O-rings and it still costs more than a spin-on filter - both OEM and aftermarket versions.

 

2) Holy rust, we have no salt down here so the bottom of mine is spotless

Chicagoland-area, good for two seasons: snow and construction.

3) using a 1/2 impact on that aluminum....scary

I didn't think about that, but you are correct. Time to look for a 3/8" impact.

Funny thing to me also is there is no steel - just paper and two O-rings and it still costs more than a spin-on filter - both OEM and aftermarket versions.

I've bought OEM filter types, whether spin-on or canister, and both always came out to be the same price each when bought in 10-pack. Aftermarket can be cheaper depending on which brand it is.

 

I didn't think about that, but you are correct. Time to look for a 3/8" impact.

Or do it by hand :dunno:

If you can't get it, pop the ratchet with your hand to emulate an impact, works for me every time.

 

Using a ... impact on that aluminum ... scary!

 

I'll try both methods next time. Thanks.

 

Forgot to mention that for me the drain plug washer sticks to the pan and I have to knock it off with a screw driver.

Soooo....

Check to see there is no washer on the pan before installing a new one.

 

I hate the filter, like others said i always just spin the cartridge off. I have a pit in my shop so access is easy.

 

I just spin the whole filter cup off my 2015 Sienna and let the oil drain out before removal, just like I do with the traditional spin on/off filters. Neither type seems any messier than the other.

The plastic thingie to drain the filter cup is just wasted time for me.

I'd like to find a cup that doesn't even have a provision to drain the cup. It's just another place for a possible leak or even worse - if it falls out from forgetting to tighten it up.

I also reuse the oil drain plug washers - the original one is still on my 2007 Vibe and it never has leaked.

 

how much oil does my 2012 3.5 hybrid engine take?


What oil do people use? regular or synthetic?


Can I do my own oil change or does it have to be done by Toyota during warranty period?

 

how much oil does my 2012 3.5 hybrid engine take?

You have the 2GR-FXE, essentially the same as the 2GR-FE except it runs Atkinson and has an EGR system, should be the same amount.
http://www.amsoil.com/mygarage/VehicleLookupPage.aspx?FromIndex=1&url2=2012+TOYOTA+HIGHLANDER+C

 

The stickies contain PDF and Video versions of the process, thought I'd share some pictures.

Loosen the pan plug with a 14mm socket and ratchet.

Let the oil drain out.

Clean the drain plug and use a new gasket.

Thread the drain plug back into the pan and torque to 30 ft-lb.

The filter canister is behind this hidden panel.

Use a 10mm socket to remove the panel.

First is to remove filter plug.

A 3/8" ratchet head would typically work, but I've been using an impact wrench to actually loosen it without spinning the entire canister off. The impact wrench actually has a 1/2"-to-3.8" adapter on.

Filter plug and small o-ring removed.

Attach the included drain pipe to a 3/4" OD tube.

Plug the drain pipe into the canister bottom.

Let the oil in the canister drain out.

Remove the canister with this tool.

MOD EDIT: OR many find this tool to be a better tool for the job.

Remove the large o-ring.

Clean the canister and other area.

New filter element and o-rings.

Put in new filter element and large o-ring, be sure the lube the o-ring.

Thread the canister back and torque to 19 ft-lb.
Lube the small o-ring and reinstall, thread the filter plug back and torque to 9.5 ft-lb.
Add oil and make sure no leaks are present.
Reset the oil change maintenance reminder.

Luc,


Thank you for this write-up. A couple of questions:


What is the source for your torque values (red font)?


Do you happen to have a torque value for the Filter Canister Cover fasteners?


Best regards,


Scott

 

A couple of questions:

What is the source for your torque values (red font)?

Best regards,

Scott

Hi, those numbers came from the actual imprints on the Toyota filter box. But I've updated the original post to the FSM numbers that sweeneyp indicated.

 

I'd hope the values came from the FSM, but I don't know.

Personally, I wouldn't torque any of these fasteners - non critical, but I would think 10-30 ft-lbs would be fine for the canister cover fasteners - but I don't have access to the FSM.

 

Those values are close enough. My FSM states:

30ftlbs on drain plug
18ftlbs on canister assembly
10ftlbs on canister cap


Granted, I simply snug them with a ratchet...

 

Those values are close enough. My FSM states:

30ftlbs on drain plug
18ftlbs on canister assembly
10ftlbs on canister cap

Hi, those numbers came from the actual imprints on the Toyota filter box. But I've updated the original post to the FSM numbers that sweeneyp indicated.

Thanks guys. My Toyota Filter Box had only one of the torque values listed on it.


Best regards,


Scott

 

Your talking about 5% difference, not a big deal. Most DIY'ers who own a torque wrench (rare enough), won't have one accurate enough for that 5% tolerance. Plus, you'd likely have to get a 1/4" one as I know my 3/8" one doesn't go below ~30. The full time mechanic who does have a high quality torque wrench won't bother using it for something like this, its a waste of time :lol:

 

I have 4 torque wrenches: one 1/4" (in-lb), one 3/8" (ft-lb), and two 1/2" (ft-lb). My 3/8" goes low enough. None of them are digital, so yes, that tolerance is negligible.

 

And here I thought oil change interval threads were tedious. :facepalm:

 

Yeah but, have your torque wrenches been calibrated?

 

Swatson9,



Yes.


Best regards,


Scott

 

Glad to hear.

 

I could not get the filter canister off during my oil change this afternoon (broke the filter tool I was cranking so hard). So I had to fill it up with oil to get to an appointment but had to leave the old filter in.

Does anyone know if its possible to swap out just the filter without draining ALL of the oil?

 

Yes you can change just the filter no problem without draining ALL oil in the engine