If you are handy you can replece the contacts in the starter solenoid.

If you arent you can replace the solenoid or the whole starter.

I have some pics of the contact repair in my 300k rebuild thread. if you need something to look at.

I have had problems with the window switches too. They can be disassembled and cleaned, but it might be easier for you to get new switches from the junkyard.

Toyota electrics are typically very durable and reliable.

-SP

 

Toyota electrics are typically very durable and reliable.

-SP

X2 - which makes me think that the two problems might be somehow related.

 

Id look at rebuilding the denso starter I've done mine in my ae92 and i know my ae102 has the same starter. Google denso starter rebuild its around $20 for the new plunger and contacts ebay and amazon sell the rebuild kits. Really cheap and easy to fix theres multiple youtube videos with instructions. Also check for corrosion on ground points and on the starter itself.

 

Sounds to me like worn contacts in the ignition swith that is behind the key barrel lock, would check the contacts on the rotary switch as these wear out over time and cause intermittent contact. Get a new one (preferable) or a good 2nd hand one if you are feeling the $ pinch.:thumbsup:

 

so just an update, i cleaned the terminals and lubed them with some vaseline. i went to start is and it started right up, i was happy for about two seconds until i turned it off and went to try to start it again. i heard all clicks. im gonna wipe off the vaseline because i heard thats actually bad and try it once more before i order the parts for the starter.

thanks for the reply guys, but yeah i had it in my mind that i might have to replace the starter contacts so im ready to atleast attempt it. my only question is do i need any special type of tools like a jack or a torque wrench to to actually get to and remove the starter? i only have a socket wrench and some loose wrenches

 

Socket wrench and extensions starter bolts are 14 mm head from memory, best to go in from underneath with the car up on jackstands for safetys sake. Exwecise some care when working under there as there are a lot of vacuume lines and plastic fittings underneath the intake plenum that can break easily. The starter will take some juggling around to get it out from in beween the half shaft and firewall. Will be easier with the RH wheel removed. So that you can easily lift it up and over the diff housing.

 

best to go in from underneath with the car up on jackstands for safetys sake.

hm i dont have any jack stands, i can still remove the starter without it right?

and is there a way to just remove the solenoid without removing the entire starter?

EDIT:just noticed something that i think is crucial

when i try to start my car, i noticed that although the dash lights dont turn off, my radio and cigarette plug does turn off. so i think that is a clue that it could be battery related

 

That telltale "click" is typically the contacts in the starter-solenoid contacting, but due to age and wear-and-tear, they can't pass the large amount of current needed to run the starter. The order-of-operations is like this:

battery-power -> starter-switch -> starter-relay -> starter-solenoid -> starter

Each stage is increasing in power with the starter itself having a direct +positive cable going directly to the battery. The starter-switch can handle about 5-amps max, the starter-relay maybe 40-amps and the starter-solenoid can pass 200-400amps. Going down the chain, we see that each stage is working correctly and stops at the last two, the solenoid or starter.

Simple way to rule out the starter is to connect a +positive jumper-cable directly between the +positive terminal on the battery and connect the other end to the +positive terminal on the starter (the one that the solenoid would be powering). If the starter doesn't spin, then it's bad (make sure the car is in neutral gear 1st).

Replacement starter-solenoids can most definitely be had separately:
Oreilley - 1997 Corolla starter-solenoid
RockAuto - 1997 Corolla starter-solenoid

These are interchange parts from other manufacturers:

ACDelco - E911A
AIRTEX - 1M1280, 1M1275
BWD - S5067, S41355
CARQUEST - 251798, 251800
GM - 88923187
STANDARD - SS416, SS818

 

There is an easy load test that can be done at an auto electrical shop, the auto electrician just puts a load gauge on the starter cable and checks the starter motor draw current, should only take 20 seconds from when he pops the hood.

it just works off the magnetic field that is generated around the cable.

yeah they tested my battery at auto zone but i guess this tool does something different

ill look into getting that test done first

 

What the testers at auto-parts stores do is typically load the battery to deliver about 100-amps and measures the voltage-drop. Batteries that are bad have higher voltage-drops and can't deliver as high CCA. You really want to test the battery at 200-400 amps as the linked picture shows. A marginal battery can easily deliver 100-amps, but when asked to provide 200-400 amps, they'll whimper and fade.

Jack stands are easily found at Harbor Freight - 3 ton steel jack stands $25. With a 25% off coupon, that's only $20 !!! Very cheap insurance.

And the starter is most easily removed from underneath. Less stress on your back, arms and shoulders because you don't have to reach very far when you're under it.

 

Harbor Freight - 3 ton steel jack stands $25. With a 25% off coupon, that's only $20 !!!

Not trying to be a dick here, but wouldn't 25% of $25.00 be $6.25, making the price $18.75?
Tax will bring it dangerously close to the $20 mark, though.