This is definitely not something that gets complained about often here.

Removing them requires disassembling the car and removing the hub from the steering knuckle/spindle. This is labor intensive. As for what they do, it really is just a dust shield for debris behind the rotor.

Can you post a pic of what you have left?

 

I believe he has basically nothing left except maybe the sleeve part still wrapped on the steering knuckle... My bro's 2005 was the same after a couple years in Ottawa's winter road salt. I just ripped them off when I replaced his rusted out front rotors. Then his driver's side front wheel bearing seized up from rust buildup within... You're fine without the rotor guards though. I recently replaced the original front rotors on a 2006 Mazda 3 GT which never had any.

 

I've seen this before. They just get so bad that they develop holes, then flake away, typically quite fast. Like everyone else said, the hub does need to be removed from the spindle. I'd just wait until you get a bad wheel bearing to do it.

 

I did not take any pics while working on it. If I decide to tackle this shortly, I will take some pics of what is left. Basically just the torx bolts with some rusty bits of metal still held down behind them. Everything else is gone. Unfortunately, I just had the drivers side bearing replaced last spring. Perhaps that is when I lost the shield? I didn't notice it missing when I cleaned the brakes in the spring, but I may have just overlooked it as I did not pull the rotors off. The passenger side bearing now seems to be on its way out, so I can at least get that side replaced.

Ottawa winters seem to be particularly hard on this vehicle. It is a 2006 with just over 100K kms on it now. Is it normal to be replacing bearings already? I've also had the exhaust pipe snap due to corrosion. The body is rust free so far, but underneath is starting to worry me. As I posted earlier, my 99 Honda has 400K kms on it, and I have never replaced a bearing, exhaust system is still all factory, and the brake shields look brand new. Maybe I've just been spoiled ;-)

It's too bad that there is no two-piece aftermarket shield that could be installed without the need to remove the entire hub. I've seen it for other vehicles, but haven't found one for the Corolla.

 

Mine are breaking down too, 05 134000kms, I also had the rusted exhaust issue and rusted tank heatshield issue, I'm out in eastern Canada.

 

You could buy new ones, cut them in half and bolt them in that way. As long as they are cut in half with a good cutting tool that makes it clean, it should work just fine.

 

Perhaps a dremel disk? I may do that myself if I can get the new shields at a decent price or simply replace them wholesale when I replace my ailing ball joints...can I borrow some of your common sense hardtopte72?

 

I had considered cutting them too before pressing the hub out when replacing bearings, but decided it'd be better not too... Beside the 3 small rust seized bolts holding them on the back, they are wrapped securely onto the steering knuckle for a good reason.

 

The parts are 4778112240 (right) and 4778212240 (left). Toyota's SRP is $24.85(US), but can be found cheaper. Not too expensive to experiment with cutting, but are there only three bolts holding them on? I thought there was a fourth. If that is the case, one half would only have the one bolt holding it on. I was also curious how tight the collar of the backing plate fits between the steering knuckle and the hub assembly. Is it possible that some of the rusted backing plate material could still be between the knuckle and hub?

 

It fits pretty tight. Yes the core is likely still on the steering knuckle... It does have 3 bolts.

http://www.toyotapart.com/mm5/graphics/00000001/47781-12240-Cover-Disc-Brake-1c.jpg

 

Don't have to cut them clear in half, can just cut an opening and slip them in, done that before.

 

I'm sure whatever is on the backing plate will crumble apart with ease.

When compared to leaving them off or removing a hub, I'm going to cut them. I'm sure they will be fine secured with one bolt.

 

The knuckle has to be removed and the hub pressed out to access the bolts that hold the heat shield on. Might as well put new bearing in while you're in there!

I have in the past on some cars been able to remove the hub by using a slide hammer and then reinstalling it using a rubber mallot to get it started and pulling it in the rest of the way with the axle nut but there's a good chance of damaging the bearing in the process. The outer race will most definitely be stuck on the hub and if the bearing is worn all the balls can fall out when that happens. Also after reassembly it's likely the life of the bearing will be compromised due to a change in preload... but it might be possible. Not really worth the risk in my opinion though.

 

Well, if you rent a hub grappler, and a press, and buy new bearings, I think it could be worthwhile.

And I'd like to see how strong your arms are if you can slide hammer a pressed on hub assembly!!

 

It's not that hard to slide hammer them off.

 

My $0.02 and a BTDT. Just cut a segment out of the replacement if you're referring to the fronts. Used an electric cut-off tool. Since I'm in Rust Belt, used some moly grease on cut and also on hub to facilitate wheel R &R. Not going to worry about the shield rusting! Evil PO of my 04 CE has some kinda accident and left remains on hub, so I only replaced the one.

 

I had them on my odyssey. When one rusted off and was banging around, I just ripped it off. I ripped off the other side at the next brake pad replacement (to even things out). I never noticed any difference in braking. It was weird that honda only put them on the back wheels. These shields can't be helping the rotors cool by not letting air from all sides hit them, so I say off with them.

 

dude i'm from Ontario, the only province to use salt on the roads and both of mine rotted off. It's like it came from Titanic.

I don't think they are necessary. I think all they do is prevent stuff from flying on the rotors. meh . i think u can go without them

 

My $0.02:

Car makers don't add unnecessary stuff unless its a requirement. Those shields help in wet weather braking IMO. Racers usually remove them to keep temps down.

Digression: My father told me to dry my brakes (back in the day when discs were not standard) after crossing a local ford. About 15 years ago, some guy in a Mustang? IIRC, coming back after a night at his country club, went off after that ford into a tree, ending in his death, along a parkway. Speed was also big issue. I seldom drive through fords (the water crossing or other), but if you remove or have corrosion remove your brake shields, you might consider adding a slight brake application to dry off discs after saturation? YMMV.

 

They also help keep brake dust off the rest of the car inside the wheel wells and shield the things behind the brakes from radiant heat, brakes can get very very hot.