That depends on how bad the camber is. Is it sonclose to the grey that it is red or is it so red that something is bent?

 

More info needed. Let's start with why you believe your camber is out of spec. Front, rear, or both? If it is out of spec, what parts are bent that need replacing?

 

Sometimes you can adjust the camber by about 0.1-0.2 degrees by loosening the two bolts at the bottom of the strut and adjusting the wheel in/out but the amount depends on which direction you have to go relative to where the bolts are currently holding the camber. If you need more than 0.2 degrees you will either need camber bolts are new parts depending on how much you are out.

 

These are his results.
I do not know this enough to interpret his results.


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View attachment 363968
These are his results.
I do not know this enough to interpret his results.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm an alignment tech and that alignment printout is almost perfect. About a half degree of camber in, check. Toed in slightly, but could be more - but still ok.

Now to the red - the camber. If you were standing to the side of the vehicle looking at a front wheel, the lower ball joint should be further toward the front of the vehicle than the upper. Like the wheel is leaning back. This leaning back of the tire is what makes the steering wheel return to center. It doesn't matter what the camber is, it will never wear tires. Only camber and toe wear tires. If one front tire has more camber than the other, the vehicle will pull that way.

The value of each camber reading is insignificant except if it is several degrees off, there's a bent part. The relationship of the two values to each other, known as the cross camber, is the important value to pay attention to.

So, you say the caster should be equal on both sides, so the car tracks straight. Almost. All roads have a crown in the center, some more than others, so rain drains to the sides and doesn't pool. This slope would make the equal camber vehicle pull right slightly, so you need slightly more caster on the left side to counter the slope.

That magic, drive straight number is about .35 - .65 more camber on the left side. The slope pulls the car slightly right, the camber pulls slightly left and you drive straight.

Long story short, ignore the individual camber numbers. Make sure the left number is about .5 degrees higher to counter road crown.

Your alignment is a 99.9 out of 100. The total toe should be more like .10 - .12 instead of .08, but that's real nit picky.

That's how I would align my car.

 

You're fine. Just leave it unless you have "issues" but that is fine.

 

Was pulling towards drivers side.
After he did alignment, pulls towards pass side.
He says he needs more time to get it right.
I guess this is due to the non adjustable camber.

Tires are not the issue. They’ve been swapped and same results.

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Was pulling towards drivers side.
After he did alignment, pulls towards pass side.
He says he needs more time to get it right.
I guess this is due to the non adjustable camber.

Tires are not the issue. They’ve been swapped and same results.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Camber shouldn't heavily affect where the vehicle pulls. That is a majority toe. BUT when you caster is significantly bad that may cause some pulling.

My own caster is significant so it does pull to the left if I let go of the wheel. Yours is so close that it shouldn't but it may be thr case.

 

Although caster on most vehicles is technically not adjustable, I have seen some make adjustments by shifting the subframe. In your case they would loosen the two main bolts on the left side and one bolt on the right side and pry the subframe back. However, this should be done on the alignment rack so that you can see how much of an adjustment you are making in real time.

 

Why does the HL not have adjustability?
How did it align from the factory?

The alignment guy “notched” more space on the bolt housing on the strut for more camber adjustability.


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Why does the HL not have adjustability?
How did it align from the factory?

The alignment guy “notched” more space on the bolt housing on the strut for more camber adjustability.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Because it doesn't and arguably doesn't need it.

 

As far as the car pulling to the left and to the right, I always advise people that if the car is drifting in the direction that the road is sloped for runoff it isn't pulling. If it always goes the same way regardless if the pitch of the road, you have an issue. Lots of times people think there alignment is off when it isn't.

 

I though 99% of drivers know this.When I test drive a car I always drive in all the lanes of the same road to observe if there is any steering pull.

 

Toe is steering, camber is tire wear, caster "shouldn't" do much but they are all related in their function in where the vehicle points and tire wear.

My caster notably off so my own car wants to pull left. Nothing I can do about it for the time being and from my research there is no way to adjust it so best bet is my control arm is bent.

 

I had problems with chain or small time alignment shops and dealership alignments and it was not until I found a very reputable and trusted race alignment shop to take care of my cars that I ever got a decent alignment.

I left shopsafter alignment and my car would pull HARD on a flat highway stretch and they’d always scratch their nuts and try try try again like the blind leading the blind.

At the race shop I was able to sit there at the rack with the tech and watch him dial everything into perfection within a hundredth of a degree. It is art work and when done right the car will track absolutely perfect and handle extremely neutral. If your car is pulling one way or another either you have damaged parts or you’re out of alignment.

my recommendation would be find a race shop and convince someone who is a mastercraft aligner to help you. It’s a highlander and they may be used to working on porsches and vettes but money talks. Tip them more than the alignment and they maysave your day!

 

At the race shop I was able to sit there at the rack with the tech and watch him dial everything into perfection within a hundredth of a degree. It is art work and when done right the car will track absolutely perfect and handle extremely neutral. If your car is pulling one way or another either you have damaged parts or you’re out of alignment.

^ Can't agree more with you on the bold above.

View attachment 363968
These are his results.
I do not know this enough to interpret his results.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Interesting that specified range of Highlander Rear Toes is from -0.13° to +0.04° which generally falls within the toe-out range.
As most cars spec'ed Rear Toes with positive toe-in, isn't Highlander's toe-out range is less than desirable?