This is a write up aimed for the home mechanic who wants to change their own spark plugs for the first time. Toyota has copper plugs in our 4.0 litre engines, so they do not last like the iridium's in my Highlander. This is not a hard job, but the biggest risk is cross-threading a spark plug; which we will cover. I did this a while back, but thought I'd share it in case it would help others.
( EDIT: LOL I just re-read that. when I say I did this awhile back - I meant I did this work & took pics a couple years ago, not cross-threaded a plug!)
Consumables:
Picked up 6 x Denso K20HR-U11 (OEM Part # 90919-01235) supposedly they come pre-gapped to the range of .040 - .043 I think - you may want to check that with a gap tool. Mine were ok.
Copper anti-seize compound (Permtex is one brand easy to find)
Dielectric grease (same brand, as above)
SIX (no more) beer. I like highly hopped American Ales like Sammy Adams. But it's your call
Tool required:
10 mm socket
12 mm socket to get some brackets in the way off
small flat-head screwdriver to get electrical plug off coilpack
3/8 inch ratchet
several different lengths of 3/8" extensions (I had 12" in total)
Proper Spark-plug socket - 5/8 12-point (yes I said 5/8", not a metric one)
Optional (but a great alternative way to prevent cross-threading): 6" of 1/2" vacuum line or 3/8" fuel hose or the like.
Optional: universal joint for your ratchet would make life easier (but I did it without
)
some black electrician's tape to tape the spark plug socket onto the extension
Optional: 3/8" torque wrench (spec is 15 ft-lbs for plugs)
I finished it in about 2h (I know, you all could do it faster, but I stopped to take all these pics!)
So... here's how it was done. I didn't use a 6" piece of 1/2 vacuum line to start the plugs (great idea tho) but I only lightly hand tightened each plug, before tightening (with thumb & index finger, so doubt you could cross-thread like that) - you'll see what I mean when we get there.
Here's what started with:
Started with passenger-side plugs first (they're easier to get to). Obviously, take off plastic engine cowl with 10 mm socket.
Then, My son takes off air element:
The air element assembly (remove it's two 12 mm bolts & unclip):
Remove wiring plug to coil pack (gently lift tab with flat-head screwdriver):
Then loosen 10 mm coil bolt (NOT the lower bolt beside coils):
Son takes out a coil pack!:
So we need to get down this hole....
I taped my spark-plug socket to the extension so it wouldn't get stuck down there...:
Remove plug - here's the old one:
Applying anti-seize to new plug - careful not too much...
This is what I mean by finger tight - don't use a ratchet yet! - you should be able to seat, then thread the plug in with only the force between thumb & finger on the end of the extension. If the plug can't be hand turned after only a turn or two, then it's NOT threaded right. This worked for all 6 plugs. Others will say use like 6" of fuel line or what-ever to start the plugs, as the rubber will slip long before the plug cross-threads. I just like this way better I don't think you can cross thread them with only lightly turning with thumb & finger
:
Then, after could turn no more - used ratchet to go 90 degrees (1/4 turn) more. Plug is now tight. Or, use a 3/8" torque wrench to 15 ft-lbs.
A dab of dielectric grease in the boot of the coil-pack:
Then of course, reassemble coil pack back into head, tighten back the coil-pack retaining bolt (7.4 ft-lbs if you are really A.R.) & snap wire back on. Now on to the Driver's side plugs. You may want to remove some stuff (especially a bracket) first to get to them:
The bracket (12 mm bolt):
I also took off PCV return hose beside bracket:
And then the wire / plug beside that:
And then the surge-tank hose:
You may not need to remove all that, but if you do, this is how much room it gives you:
Obviously, then you repeat the sequence of remove coil/plug etc on this side. There are a few tight spots, but the remaining hoses bend, and I used a longer extension to clear the remaining obstructions A universal joint would be nice here..
Don't forget to plug everything back in, & put the bracket on. Account for all tools, and that's it!
Hopefully this will help those who haven't done it before. It's much cheaper than at the dealer - UNLESS you cross-thread a plug that is.
And yes on mine and anyone who has done this for the first time, they do come from factory with Denso on one side, and NGK on the other. Why? no idea.
Cheers!
D
( EDIT: LOL I just re-read that. when I say I did this awhile back - I meant I did this work & took pics a couple years ago, not cross-threaded a plug!)
Consumables:
Picked up 6 x Denso K20HR-U11 (OEM Part # 90919-01235) supposedly they come pre-gapped to the range of .040 - .043 I think - you may want to check that with a gap tool. Mine were ok.
Copper anti-seize compound (Permtex is one brand easy to find)
Dielectric grease (same brand, as above)
SIX (no more) beer. I like highly hopped American Ales like Sammy Adams. But it's your call
Tool required:
10 mm socket
12 mm socket to get some brackets in the way off
small flat-head screwdriver to get electrical plug off coilpack
3/8 inch ratchet
several different lengths of 3/8" extensions (I had 12" in total)
Proper Spark-plug socket - 5/8 12-point (yes I said 5/8", not a metric one)
Optional (but a great alternative way to prevent cross-threading): 6" of 1/2" vacuum line or 3/8" fuel hose or the like.
Optional: universal joint for your ratchet would make life easier (but I did it without
some black electrician's tape to tape the spark plug socket onto the extension
Optional: 3/8" torque wrench (spec is 15 ft-lbs for plugs)
I finished it in about 2h (I know, you all could do it faster, but I stopped to take all these pics!)
So... here's how it was done. I didn't use a 6" piece of 1/2 vacuum line to start the plugs (great idea tho) but I only lightly hand tightened each plug, before tightening (with thumb & index finger, so doubt you could cross-thread like that) - you'll see what I mean when we get there.
Here's what started with:

Started with passenger-side plugs first (they're easier to get to). Obviously, take off plastic engine cowl with 10 mm socket.
Then, My son takes off air element:

The air element assembly (remove it's two 12 mm bolts & unclip):

Remove wiring plug to coil pack (gently lift tab with flat-head screwdriver):

Then loosen 10 mm coil bolt (NOT the lower bolt beside coils):

Son takes out a coil pack!:

So we need to get down this hole....

I taped my spark-plug socket to the extension so it wouldn't get stuck down there...:

Remove plug - here's the old one:

Applying anti-seize to new plug - careful not too much...

This is what I mean by finger tight - don't use a ratchet yet! - you should be able to seat, then thread the plug in with only the force between thumb & finger on the end of the extension. If the plug can't be hand turned after only a turn or two, then it's NOT threaded right. This worked for all 6 plugs. Others will say use like 6" of fuel line or what-ever to start the plugs, as the rubber will slip long before the plug cross-threads. I just like this way better I don't think you can cross thread them with only lightly turning with thumb & finger

Then, after could turn no more - used ratchet to go 90 degrees (1/4 turn) more. Plug is now tight. Or, use a 3/8" torque wrench to 15 ft-lbs.
A dab of dielectric grease in the boot of the coil-pack:

Then of course, reassemble coil pack back into head, tighten back the coil-pack retaining bolt (7.4 ft-lbs if you are really A.R.) & snap wire back on. Now on to the Driver's side plugs. You may want to remove some stuff (especially a bracket) first to get to them:
The bracket (12 mm bolt):

I also took off PCV return hose beside bracket:

And then the wire / plug beside that:

And then the surge-tank hose:

You may not need to remove all that, but if you do, this is how much room it gives you:

Obviously, then you repeat the sequence of remove coil/plug etc on this side. There are a few tight spots, but the remaining hoses bend, and I used a longer extension to clear the remaining obstructions A universal joint would be nice here..
Don't forget to plug everything back in, & put the bracket on. Account for all tools, and that's it!
Hopefully this will help those who haven't done it before. It's much cheaper than at the dealer - UNLESS you cross-thread a plug that is.
And yes on mine and anyone who has done this for the first time, they do come from factory with Denso on one side, and NGK on the other. Why? no idea.
Cheers!
D