Also can I use this bearing adapters kit to replace bearings?

http://www.harborfreight.com/fwd-front-wheel-bearing-adapters-66829.html

 

Also can I use this bearing adapters kit to replace bearings?

http://www.harborfreight.com/fwd-front-wheel-bearing-adapters-66829.html

Meh... You have to remove the axle hub snap ring first. Everything will be well seized up with rust. Then the hub can be pounded out with socket and sledge hammer. The bearing's inner race half needs to be zip-cut, then split with cold chisel and removed from hub. Harbor Freight's tool is most likely not strong enough to break bearing free from steering knuckle.

New bearing has to be properly pressed in to avoid ruining it, by pushing on its outer race to press it into steering knuckle, then press hub into bearing while supporting inner race.

 

You need to remove the steering knuckles to have the bearings pressed. Axle nut is torqued to 159 ft-lbs and can be loosened with breaker bar on 30 mm or 1-3/16" socket (12-point only), with flat screwdriver in brake rotor's cooling slot locked against caliper... It will then require a front wheel alignment.


2003 - 2008 Toyota Matrix / Toyota Corolla Repair Manual

Section 30: drive shaft / propeller shaft

30-56 front axle hub sub-assy lh replacement

http://www.maxcar.me/26/20ftv/conponen.pdf

 

If you have never done a bearing it's likely not best.

The HF tool can do around 1-2 bearings before it breaks. It has all the adapters needed to press out the hub and press in the bearing on the hub and the hub on the knuckle. Like invader mentioned you will need to cut off the inner race to remove it.

My advice is to rip the knuckle off the car and take it to a shop for press on and off.

 

Remove speed sensor if ABS equipped. Remove axle nut. Remove brake caliper,mount, and rotor. Loosen ball joint lock nut a few turns, flush with end of stud. Loosen tie-rod end lock nut a few turns, flush with end of stud. Seperate tie-rod from steering knuckle by hitting on top of nut with hammer. Remove both strut mount bolts. Pull axle out of steering knuckle. You can now hit the ball joint's loosened nut to seperate it from steering knuckle. You now have your steering knuckle in hand.

 

Thanks a lot guys. I have never done bearings before so I was a bit hesitant about HF tool kit as I am sure a lot of torque will be applied - at the same time I wanted to do it during weekend and taking the knuckles to machine shop will limit how fast I can complete it. I already had some doubts about the kit now I think I'll just stick with machine shop. Maybe once I know how this thing happens I can use HF kit next time.

 

I bought that exact HF kit a few months ago. The RF bearing went out on my '03 on a Saturday night and we were taking the car out of town the next afternoon. Since I didn't have access to my work (and most of my tools) I didn't have much choice to buy that kit, a cheap corded electric 1/2" impact and of course a replacement bearing.

I forgot to account for the outer race staying pressed onto the hub so I had a heck of a time getting it off with very limited hand tools. After spending about 30 minutes with a hand file I was about to throw in the towel when I found an old universal puller tool in the garage. I was able to get creative with it, the impact, and a large pair of channel locks and a butane torch to ease the race off of the hub.

Once I was past that hurdle reassembly was a snap. I was actually quite surprised with how well the bearing press tool worked for me and had it back on the road in no time. I doubt the tool would hold up to more than maybe a half dozen uses though.

All in all I'd say I spent nearly two hours on the job doing one bearing in my driveway. Keep in mind I've done hundreds of these with power tools and a press and could probably have both front bearings done in 30-40 minutes had I been able to do it at work, so working on the driveway with limited hand tools was very, VERY painstakingly slow for me.

My advice? If you really want to do this job yourself for not much more money you can buy a cheap hydraulic press that will probably work much better (and have many more applications) than the bearing set but in all honesty you're really best off just throwing a $20 or so to a local mechanic to let him do the press work for you.

 

MasterTecInSTL, did you manage to remove the clip and replace the bearing without removing the steering knucle from the Corolla?

Alpha 1976, once you've removed the steering knuckle, you can easily remove the wheel hub from the bearing by pounding it out with hammer and socket that is slightly smaller in diameter... I just made a small shallow cut in the bearing's inner race half stuck to wheel hub with rotary tool ('Dremel'), and it suddenly split on its own as soon as i cut across it with a sharp audible "PACK!!" I then pushed it off by simply pounding a cold chisel in the split to expand it.

 

I just took the whole knuckle off. Yes you can do it on the car but it's just easier to pull the whole thing off and work on it in a vice.

I mean, really... two bolts at the strut, three bolts at the ball joint (I find unbolting it from the control arm is easier) two bolts at the caliper bracket and of course the axle nut.. and it's off.

 

I just took the whole knuckle off. Yes you can do it on the car but it's just easier to pull the whole thing off and work on it in a vice.

I mean, really... two bolts at the strut, three bolts at the ball joint (I find unbolting it from the control arm is easier) two bolts at the caliper bracket and of course the axle nut.. and it's off.

Yeah, if you don't mind having the ball joint still on the steering knuckle, or end up seperating it from steering knuckle after all.

... and also remove brake caliper assembly, brake rotor, and speed sensor if ABS equipped.

 

ATD-8625 Front Wheel Drive Bearing Adapter Kit (Basically the same as HF made in China, in a different case.)

$86.95 (List Price $130.95) Free shipping USA.

http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/p-30252-frnt-wheel-dr-bearing-adpt-kit.aspx

http://atdtools.com/8625

 

Alpha 1976 - I have a copy of the Factory Service Manual I can send you that can show you how. You wont have the special tools that it shows but you can substitute common one for them. PM me your email addy and I can send it to you.

 

Hi all,

Is this speed sensor? If it is do I need this 10mm bolt and remove this whole piece? or do I pull this thing off and I don't have to remove 10mm bolt?

https://flic.kr/p/nbLKWU

This flickr so don't be alarmed - it's safe.

 

Yes that is the "speed" sensor to detect wheel rotation and lockup for the ABS system. You will take the 10mm off and remove the wiring and sensor from the knuckle, be careful not to bang it around or damage it.

 

Thanks a lot - all went easy and steering knukles are out. What grease you'd recommend for bearing? I see whitish stuff on it - is it white lithium grease?

 

New bearings are already greased and sealed... It is some kind of white grease.

 

sorry I meant what should I use on drive axle to push it through the bearings? It looks like there is some whitish there too right now. I am planning to clean it real well before I apply something else on it.

 

Drive axle goes into your wheel hub. No grease. Everything goes together clean. You can apply anti-seize compound to the bearing retainer clip in steering knuckle, and where brake rotor sits on wheel hub. Just make sure your flanges where parts sit together are cleaned of rust with wire brush or sandpaper.

 

For now, you can apply penetrating oil or WD-40 to the bearing retainer clip on the back of steering knuckle, to make it easier to remove.

 

OK. I was able to install everything easily. One thing that bothers me is this - speed sensor should be torqued at 71 lbf but it kept on turning and never really tightened that much. It seems to be OK though no check engine light or anything.

 

71 in-lbs / 12 = 6 ft-lbs.

You really didn't need the torque wrench for such a small bolt. The torque wrench is what threw you off, instead of using your judgement and doing it by feel. You probably stripped the threads in the steering knuckle. It could probably be tapped for a larger bolt, if yours is not holding.

 

You mean 71 in-lb (6ft-lb)? It only has to secure the sensor to the knuckle...

 

71 in-lbs / 12 = 6 ft-lbs.

You really didn't need the torque wrench for such a small bolt. The torque wrench is what threw you off, instead of using your judgement and doing it by feel. You probably stripped the threads in the steering knuckle. It could probably be tapped for a larger bolt, if yours is not holding.

I hope I didn't mess anything but I certainly over tightened it. It's holding OK as far as I can tell and no CEL. This misprint is what led to this:

I know I should have looked at the other units but I just didn't.

 

Yes that's not correct, where ever you got that from it's in-lb not ft-lb. It's only a 10mm head and it's not a fitted or integral bolt (example: for securing the connecting rod cap or head bolts), it only needs be tight enough so that it won't work it's way loose. 76ft-lb is the torque for the 21mm wheel nuts for comparison.

8.0nm is ~6ft-lb or 71in-lb.

You can see this far right-mid page (under "Steering Intermediate Shaft" print)

 

OK folks here -

bearings were installed with ease and all seems to be good with them. However, now car is out of alignment for sure as it pulls to the left when steering is straight. This is not a problem as alighnment will take care of this, right? There is another thing - when you turn all the way left (at the startup when you are still not moving - I think it goes away when you drive but not sure) you hear some metal sound as long as you are turning. What could it be?

Just to clarify it is like continuous humming as long as you are turning and stops as soon as you stop turning.

 

Front wheel toe and camber should be closer to aligned if you lift the steering knuckles to have slight negative camber ( /-----\ ) instead of positive camber ( \------/ ) when you tighten the two strut mount bolts, until its properly aligned.

Are you hearing your power steering pump? How is its fluid and level?

 

yes i tried to but in the end I think it's just a little bit off. It's more actually like the steering is off centered.

Steering fluid level is OK. It started just after bearing change so I am guessing it is somehow related. One more thing - by mistake I installed the left rotor on right side and vice versa. I noticed brake pads on one side showed slightly more wear.

 

You likely bent the rotor shield a bit. They almost always need adjustment after a front bearing job.

Rotors are the same on both sides.

If you noticed accelerated pad wear on one side, that is a good indicator that the brake system could use a freshening up.

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...2008/399511-diy-2003-2008-corolla-matrix-pontiac-vibe-front-brake-job-pics.html

Follow steps 1-5, 7-8, 10-14, and 16-19.

 

I tired to put everything from the saide I removed but somehow this got mixed up. I realized it when I was putting the second one in and i couldn't and then I had to push the piston back. I put no effort to swap them at that point considering they are identical.

I'll check the shields this weekend. Thanks for the tip.