Toyota Forum banner

DIY custom 1MZFE COLD AIR INTAKE

47K views 112 replies 23 participants last post by  sdspeed  
#1 ·
hi tn members!

well this is how i built my custom aluminium cai! NO WELD

i or TN is not responsible if somehow you mess up something or yourself!

first you need these items (i ordered from columbia river mandrel bending)

1 x 2.75" to 3.00" Red Silicone Reducer
$11.49 $11.49 1 x 3.00" Red Silicone Straight Coupler
$5.99 $5.99 1 x 2.50" to 3.00" Red Silicone Reducer
$9.99 $9.99 3 x 3.00" OD, 16 Gauge, Aluminum Straight Tube
$6.75 $20.25 1 x 3.00" Red Silicone 90 Degree Coupler
$16.99 $16.99
-------
1x 1/4npt or 3/8 npt tap (depending on what size hose barb you get)
1x npt hose barb (for the crankcase vent tubing)
-angle grinder with 1/16 cutoff wheel (dont forget to put on hearing, visual and leather gloves when operating and angle grinder with a cutoff wheel! IT CUTS SKIN FAST!!!!)
-sheet of paper
-sharpie marker
-tape measure
-round file or dremel with sandpaper
-3" inlet cone air filter

first lift the driver side of the car and put it on a jackstand! not only a jack!!! use a jackstand!

remove the wheel

remove the 10mm bolts that holds the plastic shield in front of the wheel

peel back the plastic so you have space to work under the fender

i started by removing the 2 10mm bolts that held the big jug in place (one is straight in front of you, the other requires you to remove the shield under the bumper to get to it! (from undersid at the other end of the jug)

pull out the jug and trash it lol

i had to unscrew and rotate away the fender brace that the jug was screwed onto to make room for the big 90* elbow

remove the oem air box (all 10mm bolts)

remove the battery and remove the little duct that goes behind the headlight

Image


then remove the oem intake hose from the throttle body, disconnect the crankcase vent tube and maf and remove the maf (ita a good idea while you have the maf out to spray throttle body cleaner in it to clean it!)


you are now ready to piece together your custom CAI

here is a neat trick to achieve perfect straight cuts with an angle grinder

measure the lenght needed an make a mark with the sharpie, then roll a sheet of paper around the pipe making sure the the overlapping end on the paper are perfectly parralel! then trace around the paper! voila! perfect line! then go real slow with the grinder following the line and you should be able to achieve a real straight cut!

Image



cut the followings lenghts of pipe

7"
13"
and i dont quite remember the lenght of the last little bit of pipe ... was around 4"

take your file or dremel and remove the nasty burrs from your cuts (you can also "sharpen" the end of the pipes so you will have perfect flow! but thats not needed really lol)

take your 7" lenght and drill a 7/16 hole in it (approx 3 inches from an end) then tap with a 1/4 npt tap for your 1/4 npt hose barb. if using a 3/8npt barb then drill a 9/16 hole and tap with a 3/8 npt tap

screw the barb real tight in the pipe then take your dremel or file and remove all the brass from the fitting that is sticking out on the inside

you are now ready to assemble the CAI

this is the order: throttle body --- 2.75" to 3" coupler --- 7" pipe with barb --- 3" coupler --- maf --- 2.5" to 3" coupler --- 13" pipe --- 90* 3" coupler --- little piece or pipe (4") --- 3" inlet filter! DONE!

here you go you just saved a whole lot of money compared to the aem CAI for 1mzfe! :thumbsup:

in these pics i did a really quick polish job using a couple grit sandpapers but next summer i'll remove it and do a real polish job with buff wheels and compound and then i'll powder coat it candy transluscent red!

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp345/lemegacool
/p_00467.jpg

Image


Image


Image


Image


Image









Image
 
#10 ·
Hi lemegacool,
I'm so impressed, that was just brilliant but it's just that loudness, how about trying to built something less louder as well?
Well you could find a way to hook up the big milk jug to the cai lol that would quiet it down
 
#11 · (Edited)
great write-up...ok nvm about the prices dealio, I figured it out...:lol:

which kinda cone filter are you using specifically (I know it's 3 inches inlet but where did you get it from) ?? :dunno:

also to quote "cut the followings lenghts of pipe

7"
13"
and i dont quite remember the lenght of the last little bit of pipe ... was around 4"


^ so on the website it states that the 3.00" OD, 16 Gauge, Aluminum Straight Tube are 12 inches in length...how exactly are you cutting it to 13 inches then?? :dunno: =/
 
#12 ·
lol dont pay attention to prices... i think they all got mixed up lol

hahaha they sell it by the foot so i bought 3 foot came in as a 36" long piece of pipe THEN you can cut it to 13" ;)

filter is "tuned" brand from canadian tire lol
 
#15 ·
glad to see some people stepping up and getting things done :D honestly though i would wrap that thing in some insulation cause the intake air temperature does go up even with that and it's due to the pipe getting heat soaked.

great write up :thumbsup:

really ?
but the air moves thru the intake so fast. will it have enough time for the heat to be transfered from the heatsoaked pipe into the intake air ?

wrap it w exhaust heat wrap ? haha
 
#16 ·
my obd2 scanner shows a huge drop in intake temps!!! and i checked when i came back from work and the pipe is ice-cold !!! cant be worse than sucking HOT air from the engine compartment! lol

plus this spring i'm going to powdercoat the whole CAI so it will help insulating...
 
#19 ·
Stock airbox on a gen 4 5SFE is 30 degrees F cooler than with an SRI :thumbsup:

I know, unrelated. But I think it was around 90 degrees F stock and 120-130 degrees F SRI.
 
#48 ·
............It's also a cold rain intake, cold bug intake, cold dust intake, cold snow intake, cold small dog intake, cold small granny's purse intake............:lol:
 
#25 · (Edited by Moderator)
...this is a RAM air intake
Fixed

a CAI would be at the Lowest point of the car.....Heat rises remember...:lol: the lower you go the colder...w/ the intake in the front......

right there you are forcing air into the engine faster...maybe not so much colder...

Gio...did you ever have a bug problem w/ that on the track?
 
#28 ·
Fixed

a CAI would be at the Lowest point of the car.....Heat rises remember...:lol: the lower you go the colder...w/ the intake in the front......

right there you are forcing air into the engine faster...maybe not so much colder...

Gino...did you ever have a bug problem w/ that on the track?
No problem at all. but there was a dog that ended up missing ...and it walked in front of my car....:eek:

i also did that setup for long drives but i had a filter inline
 
#30 · (Edited)
Don't know if your OBX intake pipe has the slight bend in it like the Injen, but there were cold-air extensions available that worked with Gen 4 1MZs in conjunction with the Injen SRI that routed to that opening in front of the driver front wheel. Wish I had a better pic, but the weather sucks and I'm lazy.
Image
 
#37 ·
Ahhh so you just have junk sitting around like me. :lol: But yes. I was referring to powdercoating... welding... etc. The more "advanced" DIY stuff that not everyone is willing to take on. :)
 
#39 ·
yeah i guess i could make a thread about that... but you really want me to show you how to tig weld aluminium or stainless or semi-automatic gmaw/fcaw welding?

i'll be sure to take pics when i powder coat some stuff... ;)

I've also done a lot of work trying to figure out a good way to do a CAI with our 3-4 gen Camry's. I custom made a much cruder system than the great one shown in this thread, but essentially the same. Two things bugged me... First it was too loud. Second it gave the engine induction note a cheap sound, kind of like an old pushrod Chevy, 2.8 V-6. Now I'm all about making changes that both enhanse the cars performance and retain its quality feel and sound. My answer was to build a system that included a "T", juction with the big "milk jug" sound resonnator inside the left fender of the car. This gave me good CAI, and a wonderful, quieter induction sound, a bit like a BMW I6. It only gets a little ragged over 6000rpm.:cool:
good idea! :thumbsup: yeah now i do less wot than before because of the loudness of the CAI especially when the aics kicks in YO! :lol:

BUT! i'm going to leave it that way since when i'll install my custom M90 SC it will quiet down the induction noise

plus i'm going to be using laminova water/air intercooler cores right after the SC witch will quiet down induction noise even more! i should be left with a neat loud SC whine (especially if i decide to weld up the silencer ports on the m90 ;))
 
#38 ·
Noise Factor..

I've also done a lot of work trying to figure out a good way to do a CAI with our 3-4 gen Camry's. I custom made a much cruder system than the great one shown in this thread, but essentially the same. Two things bugged me... First it was too loud. Second it gave the engine induction note a cheap sound, kind of like an old pushrod Chevy, 2.8 V-6. Now I'm all about making changes that both enhanse the cars performance and retain its quality feel and sound. My answer was to build a system that included a "T", juction with the big "milk jug" sound resonnator inside the left fender of the car. This gave me good CAI, and a wonderful, quieter induction sound, a bit like a BMW I6. It only gets a little ragged over 6000rpm.:cool: