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DIY: Swap out your wimpy stock horn

84K views 81 replies 27 participants last post by  Hogwash  
#1 ·
Alright we all know the stock horn is lame. I didn't know this on my brand new Rolla until last night when someone cut me off and I was sure my horn malfunctioned. Nope. It's just a clown car.

So I went out and bought a Wolo Bad Boy Horn. Here's the breakdown of how to install it.

DISCLAIMER: This DIY is provided for informational purposes only. You are solely responsible for your vehicle and any modifications you choose to do. Any damage or warranty issues you come into will not be held liable to either myself or ToyotaNation.

Tools needed:
-12 mm wrench
-10 mm wrench
-Small flat head screwdriver
-Wire cutters / crimpers
-Wire, electrical terminals, heat shrink

Luckily it's easy to see the factory horn. Right in front of the radiator when you open the hood.

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First, unclip the wire on the bottom. Simply push the button on the left side in and pull down. Then you can take your 12 mm wrench and take the horn off.

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At this point it also helps to remove the front grille. There's a bolt that you'll need a 10 mm wrench for in the center near the hood latch, and then two pop clips on either side. Then it just slides straight out.

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Snip the connector off the horn wire (leaving enough room to re-connect if you need to later) and splice in whatever kind of terminal you will need. Most aftermarket horns will require you to splice in a female disconnect terminal like this.

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On this particular horn, there is a separate ground wire. I ran that to the bracket where the factory horn grounds. I also had to use the factory mounting bracket due to clearance issues with the hood latch.

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Installed. This thing is LOUD and sounds like a freight train. Can't wait to use it in traffic. >:)

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Thanks for reading, post your pics or comments or questions here!
 
#2 ·
That really needs to be running a relay and heavier power wire, that air compressor (yes, it's a compact air horn with it's own compressor) pulls A LOT more power than the stock horn, it may not be popping the fuse but it will over heat the wiring, damage the relay, and/or melt the contacts in the fuse block for the horn fuse eventually.
 
#16 ·
Well, time to hang my head and admit you were right. Last night I blew my horn fine, went to blow it again and nothing. I checked and the fuse was blown.
Swapped out the fuse and still no horn.
Tested the horn directly to the battery and it works, same with the stock horn.
Swapped horn relay for a working relay and it doesn't work.
Swapped back to stock horn, doesn't work.
Checked the wire for continuity and it's not shorted.

What else needs to be checked?
 
#3 ·
@Chris Crash

Good job. I used some Wolo's in my Corolla. Funny story...today I was behind some slow lady in an 10th gen Corolla and I got over to the side and proceeded to pass her and she turned her signal on and turn right into me, tapped the brakes and unloaded my horn...scared the shit out of her plus her window being open helped =D
 
#76 ·
@Chris Crash

Good job. I used some Wolo's in my Corolla. Funny story...today I was behind some slow lady in an 10th gen Corolla and I got over to the side and proceeded to pass her and she turned her signal on and turn right into me, tapped the brakes and unloaded my horn...scared the shit out of her plus her window being open helped =D
lol do you have a sound bite of this? I want a horn that actually sounds like a cot damn lion not a baby kitten.
 
#4 ·
I've got a 17 inch elertric air horn on my Celica, it gets the message across. My Mazda has two horns similar to those above this post AND a 15 inch electric air horn, it also gets the message across. All my air horns run relays with heavier wiring to prevent problems and ensure the compressor has ample power for fast spin up and sound. Weak wiring can cause a slow honk or a delayed honk at best and at worst as I outlined above cause melting problems. I realize that the directions that come with the horn say you can connect it right to the factory wiring but that's not really right.
 
#6 · (Edited by Moderator)
Alright we all know the stock horn is lame. I didn't know this on my brand new Rolla until last night when someone cut me off and I was sure my horn malfunctioned. Nope. It's just a clown car.

So I went out and bought a Wolo Bad Boy Horn. Here's the breakdown of how to install it.
Totally getting this for the Avalon.. I hope it's reminiscent of the late 80's early 90's Cadillac freight train horn!!!!! Where'd you get this "bad boy"

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
 
#14 · (Edited)
That was me.

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...l-discussion-forum/1321265-no-more-little-beeper-cadillac-4-note-horn-swap.html

I used 1992 DeVille horns. They each come with a 2 wire sealed connector, green for (+) black for (-). The 1990? and earlier ones use a single spade connector for (+) and ground through the mounting bolt. The wiring would be slightly easier but not as clean.

I estimate they draw between 20 and 24 amps for the 4 horn set, any Toyota will need a new bigger power wire and a relay.

On a 10th gen, the plug from the stock horn goes right on the trigger pin of a standard relay, the rest is up to you on how to mount it.

If you don't want to do all the wiring, the 2 horn set from a newer Caddy or bigger GM or a set of aftermarket FIAMM or Blazer or Wolo brand horns should work with stock wire.

I am going to paint mine this week and then make write-up for the 10 / 10.5 Gen Corolla.

 
#15 ·
#17 ·
Connect a light bulb to ground and the horn wire to make trouble shooting easier and so you don't annoy your neighbors honking all the time :lol:

Now look closely in the fuse slots to see if the contacts are good and making good contact with the fuse, an easy way to check this is to draw sharpy on the fuse legs and insert the fuse. If the metal contacts are touching well then it'll scrape the marker off. It's like a machinist checking fit with blue. Assuming the fuse contacts are hitting the fuse blade well, you'll need to check that the horn relay is clicking and that the horn relay contacts in the fuse block are touching the relay legs, same way you checked the fuse.


I don't know what kind of testing stuff you have but a good computer safe test light is a great too to have for this, you can use it to check if you're getting power and ground at all the things. Have someone or something hold the horn down (a rod and two pillows between the steering wheel and seat works) and then check that the horn switch is grounding at the relay, the relay is closing and sending power out to the horn, etc. A circuit diagram will make trouble shooting much easier since you'll know what flows to where. Once you get it resolved post up what you found, I'm curious to know what actually failed in the circuit. Hopefully it didn't burn a wire in a harness, usually when one burns it damages others around it and it can be a real mess to get it fixed in a reliable manner.
 
#19 · (Edited)
Oh I know. They just want you to burn the car down. Fuses and wiring are sized together, upping the fuse on a small wire just makes the small wire more likely to become the fuse!

http://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3420-S.../dp/B000KIGL6E/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1460918628&sr=8-2&keywords=car+test+light That's a good test light that won't damage any sensitive circuits on the car if you poke the wrong thing. Also don't poke into wires, that makes holes to rot the wire later. Try to probe at the connectors or side a wire into the connector and touch that. Don't force things in where they don't fit, rule of wrenching and of life.
 
#20 ·
Well, I got the stock horn working again. Didn't bother trying to put the WOLO back in...maybe another time when I can actually upgrade the wiring and fit a 20A fuse.

I started by pulling the fuse and marking it with a marker like you suggested. I noticed one side (the side toward the horn) was not getting contact. I started fiddling around with the fuse block and noticed that the connector was missing or had dropped down. Just before I started to tear the fuse box apart, something on the fuse diagram caught my eye...

When I first blew the fuse, and replaced it, it was the middle of the night so I couldn't see well. Apparently I had put the new 10A fuse in the wrong slot, a slot where nothing belongs on my car. So there is no outbound connector.

Embarrassing but at least it's fixed.
 
#21 ·
Haha, glad you got it and nothing was actually wrong but a blown fuse. Let me know when you're ready to run the relay and wiring and I can link you to current ebay pages for the items I suggest using. Water proof relay, fuse holder, etc. Listings come and go so no sense posting them now.
 
#23 · (Edited)
Going on two years with Fiamm El Grande (74100) dual horn setup on daughter's 07 Corolla. Only $20 on Amazon and they are significantly louder than OEM. They draw less than 10 amps, yet they come with a relay which I didn't use. Air horns, I would definitely use a relay.

Good the hear CC only blew a fuse.

This is funny: Wolo sells a horn wiring kit, but it doesn't include the relay!

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#32 ·
I didn't splice the wire, I used the existing Lexus wire. Put a spade terminal (ring terminal too) at the end and connect to the plug. Put a heat shrink tube and lots of electrical tape and that's it.

Toyota/Lexus with dual horns have the same wiring and plug so the horns are interchangeable. Left plug is where the split wire is.



I honk my horn for more than 2 minutes to test if it can handle the added horn and it did.
 
#33 ·
My opinion, this is overkill. An air horn? I agree the corolla's horn is terrible. I'm swapping it with a stock Lexus one. But do you really need scare people? An inattentive driver is bad enough, but now a scared inattentive driver. I'm just saying, I don't mean to be a dick, but how about just passing attention to the road instead of this jackessary?
 
#34 ·
Loud music, on a loud phone call, partly deaf, in the city used to the sound of other cars honking all the time, etc. etc. All situations where a louder horn that has a different tone works. Why do big trucks have such big deep horns? It gets the point across and fast!