Try it and find out.

 

Thanks. Your dog could have given me a better answer.

 

I'm 6'2" and 145 lbs. I use a jack to place HL on jackstands to change oil. Technically, there is enough room to do it without raising it but it's too tight for my liking. If the HL utilized a standard spin-on filter, I might just grin and bear it without raising but that's not the case.

 

Yeah, that filter set up is complex, for sure. Not sure why they do it, it's no cheaper or any more efficient at cleaning the oil.

 

I use ramps, easier for me and less time consuming. Drive on, drain oil and change filter, back off.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

I use ramps, easier for me and less time consuming. Drive on, drain oil and change filter, back off.

Same here. Ramps are far easier to use.

 

I'm a big guy and have trouble getting under sometimes. It's easier to just jack up front part of the car, place on stands, and get under.

If you can fit without great, but it's easier to access everything when on jack stands. Just don't get under a car that's not on stands.

 

For oil changes I use ramps much easier and more convenient. Especially since I have a gravel driveway the Jack and Jack stands sink so I don’t want to be under there if they go down too far.

 

Even on a flat driveway it's good to have something flat under the stands to make sure they are stable.

 

Try using 4 jack-stands, get the vehicle completely off the ground at the height you prefer. That way the vehicle is level when removing fluid from the engine/filter, and you can rotate tires at the same time. Takes a little more time than using ramps, but ramps don't allow tire rotation. And you're still supposed to rotate tires, right ?

 

Takes a little more time than using ramps, but ramps don't allow tire rotation.

My tires get rotate for free from the place I buy my tires from. Been that way for decades.

 

Try putting down some cardboard to keep you off the ground while doing this. I think my wife's Tacoma is a 2006, and removing the oil filter led to some spilling oil, IIRC. Your model might have a different design, and maybe I just didn't plan out my first oil change on that vehicle good enough. Here are some general tips I've picked up from various sources.
1. Put your oil cap face up right next to the hood latch so you can't close the hood without getting it out of the way. Don't move the cap unless you are screwing it back onto the engine.
2. Prefill your oil filter with oil, let it sit a bit, prefill it again, and then install it taking care to make sure you hold it level as you install it. Take into account any angle of insertion when prefilling your filter. If you fill it to the top and then have to angle it for install, the end result will be unnecessarily spilled oil.
3. After you are done with your oil change, run the engine for a minute, turn it off, recheck you oil level, and add in oil to cover any shortages that appeared after the engine ran. Of course, I'm assuming you are on a flat surface.
4. I like ramps for my oil change, too. My driveway has a slight angle to it so the vehicle sits level on the ramps. I put on the parking brake and block off the tires to prevent gravity from moving the car off the ramps.
5. Have fun!

 

I save old shower curtains and keep one folded in the car for 'under-the-car' work.

 

Like others have said, I use ramps also , easy and safe.
Glenn

 

Thanks, Glenn

 

You're still consuming resources whether you want to admit it or not. And it sounds like you don't have the ability to make a determination.

I wish you luck with Costco, keep buying from them so my stock dividend checks keep increasing.

You have no idea how high the markup is, do you ??

 

You're still consuming resources whether you want to admit it or not. And it sounds like you don't have the ability to make a determination.

I wish you luck with Costco, keep buying from them so my stock dividend checks keep increasing.

You have no idea how high the markup is, do you ??

What is the tire markup? Must be pretty good to pay for the overhead for the tire center, salaries for the employees, and free rotations. And they still do it for less than any mom and pop place around here.

 

Where in the world do you get your tires??

I buy lots of things from Costco. Batteries too. Last one went bad after I left the car sitting for 2 months at the beginning of the pandemic. Under replacement warranty, no questions asked. For $5 I walked out with a brand new battery.

Ok, not exactly free, since you partially pay for the additional services "upfront". But when they sell you additional services at a loss or even break-even, that's essentially free in my book.

Sure, you can thank me for that $10/share special dividend you just received. You're welcome.

 

You need a jack if you plan on raising the vehicle to get jack stands to save your fat little body from getting flattened should the jack let go.

Try it and find out.

This seemed like a very intelligent short and simple answer

Thanks. Your dog could have given me a better answer.

@Vangm25 's dog doesn't respond to silly questions. Would have probably just given you a funny look

Sure, you can thank me for that $10/share special dividend you just received. You're welcome.

Hehe you actually looked that one up. I wasn't aware of the special dividend. It compensates for the meager $2.8 per year they give out in dividends. Although I must admit the stock has had a steady constant climb,

 

Hello, on my 05 Camry i do the oil change myself and use an plastic ramp from Harbour Freight and had the EZ drain valve installed and each time do oil change, there no need to use wrench and it speed up the process. I recommend an plastic ramp for the oil change so there's more clearance and you could have an peep under the car to see if there's any other problems at same times.

Link:
EZ Oil Drain Valve- The Easiest Oil Change!

Ramps - Harbor Freight Tools

 

Hello, on my 05 Camry i do the oil change myself and use an plastic ramp from Harbour Freight and had the EZ drain valve installed and each time do oil change, there no need to use wrench and it speed up the process. I recommend an plastic ramp for the oil change so there's more clearance and you could have an peep under the car to see if there's any other problems at same times.

Link:
EZ Oil Drain Valve- The Easiest Oil Change!

Ramps - Harbor Freight Tools

1 - That easy drain looks cool but I wouldn't trust something like that without some sort of safety lock.

 

Ramps

 

My solution to getting cheap tires is to used to work in a auto shop and thus I can go back and purchase tires at shop price and do my own labor. Only $96 per tire even though I bought five...

Not everyone is gonna have this connection and if you can find the cheapest method possible for your own tires, just stick with it.

It only takes a few minutes to go outside, to lay on the ground, and then think "hey, I can't get under here". Then you can decide on whether you want to use a jack and jack stands or a ramp. Not spend a few minutes making a thread and waiting a few hours to decide if you can do an oil change without lifting the vehicle.

 

Maybe you can take your complaint to the HR department. They'd be sure to give you a hand.

 

For the EZ drain valve, there's also an possibilities to buy from them or hardware store an clip to secure it like Fumoto valve.
Here the info:
"For users under extreme conditions such as, off-road vehicles, agricultural tractors, and logging equipment (i.e. corn fields, brush areas), it is advised that a hose clip as shown below be applied for additional safety and security. Hose clips can be purchased at any hardware stores and will securely keep the lever closed in the locked position at all times."
https://ezoildrainvalve.com/uploads/3/5/2/6/35266975/7332271.jpg?329

Here's the link for Canadian purchase in CDN currency for EZ drain:
Oil Changes Made Easy - EZ Oil Drain Valve Canada

 

xx

 

I don't bother with a jack or ramps if i'm just doing an oil change. 6'3" 220 (ish) - a little big for getting under (especially now that it's on RSR springs) but my arms are long enough I can reach the drain plug and filter.

On a side note, holy hell that's a lot of snark for a seemingly straight forward question.

 

On a side note, holy hell that's a lot of snark for a seemingly straight forward question.

Agreed. There's been some good discussion and insight but wow...

 

are ramps really the best to use!?, i would think at a tilted incline not being level, that ALL the oil will not properly drain? that is why shops use lift and/or open pits to change oil? when i used to change the oil in the '79 Corolla i would jack up one side to reach the plug, wrench it off, and then lower the jack so the car was level for awhile to finish fully draining, and then jack it back up to put the plug in and remove filter from underneath (a long reach i recall!). this was more than 15 years ago. My tacoma is far enough off the ground at stock height that i can belly under with all 4 wheels level on the ground with the splash shields on. The filter on the truck is a different animal i have not attempted to figure out the best method of removal

 

are ramps really the best to use!?, i would think at a tilted incline not being level, that ALL the oil will not properly drain?

I take it you've never done an oil change on this vehicle before. The drain plug is in the back...so when you drive up on the ramps the oil in this vehicle actually drains out BETTER then if it's flat.

And on vehicles where the plug isn't in this configuration...there isn't much oil left. And if you're really concerned then just pour in 1/4 quart of clean oil and that'll remove dame close to all of the dirty oil.

 

I was looking at the ramps I have. They are probably 30 years old and designed even farther back than that. The incline on the ramps is steep. I am pretty sure the valence under the front of the car will hit the ramps before the tires will. So, looks like those ramps will have to go to the scrap yard.

Re-thinking this ramp deal - is there a brand of ramps out there that have a nice gradual incline that I can get on, without the body of the car hitting the ramp? Where did you get yours and can you get your Highlander on them? Thanks.

 

I use Rhino ramps (Amazon), and the appearance is deceiving. It LOOKS like the front valence will hit the ramp, and it is real close, but it does not. Before tossing your "old" ramps, try'em.

 

DIY oil filter change.

Has anyone racked up enough miles yet to do their own oil change on their 2020 HL? if so, I was wondering how you gained access to the oil filter since it is hidden behind a cover under the vehicle.

www.toyotanation.com

I do like those stacked wooden DIY ramps.... but prefer my HF and Rhino ramps

I don't get the topic of this thread... and, a honest response from some members doesn't mean its a snark. Whatever happened to uncommon sense?

Here's another.

Drained oil --> tightened drain plug to spec --&gt...

As per title, I drained oil --> tightened drain plug to spec (29 ft-lbs) --> filled oil--> upon starting car, all oil leaked out within seconds The car was on for ~30 seconds - I drove it back off the ramps, realized something was wrong, then shut it off. Two questions: 1. Can you confirm...

www.toyotanation.com

My psychic powers are failing!

 

I do like those stacked wooden DIY ramps.... but prefer my HF and Rhino ramps

The thing I hate about the Rhino or HF ramps is the very short distance you have to stop when you finally reach the top. I built mine that give you 4' of stopping distance. I don't have to get to the top and then quickly slam on the brakes to make sure I don't go over.

 

no ramp or jacks for me. Just slide right under. everyhting is pretty far forward anyways. Not like my old altima and saturn which had the oil filter mounted to the side of the block on the back side, parallel to the ground. What a mess. lol

the audi was the worst, mainly because i had to drive it up on wood blocks to get a jack under it. (didnt have a low profile jack)

 

Oops you have fired the first shots in a ramp war with MikeNH, they are a demigod on this forum, their opinion unquestioned, anyone who wants to go 300k miles in their Toyota listens to his sage wisdom
Your insolence shall not go unanswered......
They are never ever wrong how dare you 😷

 

Oops you have fired the first shots in a ramp war with MikeNH, they are a demigod on this forum, their opinion unquestioned, anyone who wants to go 300k miles in their Toyota listens to his sage wisdom
Your insolence shall not go unanswered......They are never ever wrong how dare you 😷

OOPS! No offence intended, I didn't know ...... I just never considered that a reason not to consider using a Rhino (or other) ramps was not being able to stop at the top, I get a less expensive alternative or more height, but, not having enough room to stop 🛑 ..... so sorry if I've caused anyone discomfort. As I posted previously, before Rhino, I used wood.

Jbrnigan: which chains have the Rhino ramps where I could go see them close up and personal? Sounds like a pretty good idea, I'd like to check them out. Thanks.

I've seen them at Walmart from time to time, you might just have to call around.

 

I prefer these `Eastwood' ramps, which have detachable ramp sections, allowing better access from the sides. Also notice the low spot on the part under the tire, which stops the car from rolling off....safer than a flat piece of wood. Back in the 70's I had a design like this in steel...wish I still had those! Much easier to store too!

 

View attachment 316876
I prefer these `Eastwood' ramps, which have detachable ramps, allowing better access from the sides. Also notice the low spot on the part under the wheel, which stops the car from rolling off....safer than a flat piece of wood. Back in the 70's I had a design like this in steel...wish I still has those! Much easier to store too!

Thanks, that looks like a well designed ramp. Simple idea, gives you more room. Very cool indeed.

 

Those indentations seem to have a couple purposes. I remember on my steel ones, that when you felt that small `dip' pulling on, you knew to stop. Also, when you remove the detachable section, this insures that even if you forget to put the parking brake on, the car cant roll either direction, so you may not need to chock the rear wheels.

 

Well, if I didn't trust the combo of "P" and parking brake, I'd have to put a chock in front of the wheel every time I get out so it doesn't roll down and run over someone in the street. I don't worry about that happening either....no wheel chock. I bet I'm not alone in skipping that.

 

A ramp manufacturer has to cover his butt, so I'm sure that's why that indentation is there.